WESTERN USA 1994

by Phil Pope 

This article describes a trip that I undertook with Ron Thomas and three  American birders in the spring of 1994. It was rather a spontaneous trip in that the itinerary changed as it went along.

It began with a call from Ron inviting me to join him and Cosmo Bloom on a two week ‘twitch’ in Arizona to clear up a number of missing American species from Cosmo’s list. The dates were not ideal (about three weeks earlier would have been better for migrants) but were chosen when everyone was available and also were late enough for all of the breeding (i.e target) birds to be on territory. 

I would add that this trip covered a good deal of the best birding sites in SW States in just over two weeks. The original Arizona plan got rather changed, but unless you have the services of a manic American birder (sorry Cos) who can drive for up to 20 hours a day without falling asleep at the wheel and still identify everything heard and seen then don’t try this itinerary in anything less than twice the time taken. We saw a lot of birds, nearly 350 between us in 17 days, that rivals anything Africa or South America can do on an average trip. A large part of the time I was dead on my feet through lack of sleep and it took weeks to recover so be warned! but the birds were worth it as you will see. 

DAY 1  Flight to LA, drive to Phoenix

On 21^st May Ron and I took a plane to LA and were met by Cosmo in his company car. As usual you get there pretty much when you left, or not long after, so there was plenty of daylight left. Bags in the car and Cos was shooting out onto the highway with a ‘OK guys let’s bird’. Unfortunately we went straight into a traffic jam and our list took some while to get beyond House Sparrow. But eventually we reached a wilder area on the outskirts of LA with an open hillside of Sage scrub. Here we were joined by Pete and his wife who lived nearby. Pete was something of a legend in LA I gathered. It was said he rarely slept or ate anything when he was birding, he just kept going to the next tick. A recent incident was related where, in a hurry to get to the bird the car was drawn up by a rattler in the road ahead. Pete leapt out (it was said) grabbed the rattler by the neck and threw it into the bushes before leaping into the car and driving on. 

 A Cliff Swallow flew overhead and an American Kestrel hovered nearby. A small drab bird was spotted in the scrub and a chase ensued. It took some time for all of us to get onto a Sage Sparrow, the only one of the trip.

We drove on for a short distance to some waste ground near to houses. We saw a Nuttall’s Woodpecker, Northern Mockingbird, House Wren, Song Sparrow and Western Kingbird near the houses and in a small clump of trees there appeared to have been a small fall of birds. It was mind boggling. There was Phainopepla, Cedar Waxwing, Lesser Goldfinch, a stunning Western Tanager, California Towhee, Bush tit, Northern Oriole, Brown-headed Cowbird and all of these ticks! Other birds in the area were Scrub Jay, Band-tailed Pigeon, Mourning Dove, Northern Rough-winged Swallow  and a Red-tailed Hawk. Not a bad start! 

The first long drive then followed, LA to Phoenix in six hours. It was dark when we arrived and the only birds en route were some Lesser Nighthawks in the distance near Blyth (difficult to id but that’s what they had to be in this location). The drive was also my first experience of a desert but unfortunately this one resembles an extended slag heap, but no matter, better was to follow. Out first night was spent at a Motel 6 in Phoenix. They consist of a block of rooms, three beds, standard price, no frills but good value.  

DAY 2 Birding around Houston, Texas 

We were up early after a woefully inadequate nights sleep, we didn’t get to bed until nearly midnight and remember we’d had an 11 hour flight the day before. However, the plan had now changed from an Arizona twitch to a Texas and Arizona twitch. So it was off on the first flight to Houston. We checked in at first light at a roadside counter and regretted it. On arrival in Houston a couple of hours later Cosmo’s luggage was nowhere to be seen. This, of course, cost us a couple of hours precious birding time trying to sort out. Promises were made that his bags would be found and sent on and Ron and I had a rummage through our bags to find some spare clothes for him. 

Eventually we sorted out the hire car and headed off to the famous High Island. Of course this place is at its best at the end of April and it was now 22^nd May so we weren’t expecting too much. The woods were quite busy though with lots of Red-eyed Vireos and Yellow-billed Cuckoos. We also caught up with many of the more common species here , Blue Jays, Cardinals, Loggerhead Shrike, Inca Dove and Purple Martins. 

The surrounding pools had several alligators in residence but also Snowy Egrets, Great-tailed Grackles, a Great Crested Flycatcher and a Swainson’s Thrush. Driving round to the Gulf coast we had very close views of a Black Shouldered Kite (now split as White-tailed Kite, I think) eating its prey on a post. 

Along the shore were lots of Royal Terns with a single Forster’s Tern. Sanderling and Turnstones doing what they do everywhere. Stilt Sandpipers and an unidentified Calidris sandpiper, the light just wasn’t good enough. Also here were Willets, Reddish Egrets, Great White Egret, Brown Pelicans and a stunning Roseate Spoonbill. A Gull-billed Tern flew past. 

We then drove off to the Anahuac reserve stopping on the way to get close views of Eastern Meadowlark and an amazing Scissor-tailed Flycatcher. 

It was a fair drive to the reserve and it was now evening. We drove along the tracks alongside the waterways birding from the car in the failing light. A King Rail was in a ditch close by, Red-winged Blackbirds were everywhere and we added Pied-billed Grebe, Tricolored Heron, Yellow-crowned Night Heron, Green Heron, a Least Bittern clinging to the reeds next to the car, Glossy Ibis, Great Blue Heron, Purple Gallinule (smaller than the European one for a change), Black-bellied whistling Duck and Rufous Whistling Duck. We also saw Orchard Orioles and a female Common Yellowthroat.

Another long drive back to Beaumont and another Motel 6, looking identical to the last. Also another late night and we had to be up for the dawn chorus in the morning! 

DAY 3  Big Thicket and drive to Austin, Texas 

First light at Big Thicket, the ‘Piney’ woods near to Houston. It’s frustrating to hear so much birdsong and not to be able to identify it. We were able to find most of the birds eventually though, a walk along the woodland trail gave us Carolina Chickadee, Tufted Titmouse, Carolina Wrens, White-eyed Vireo and a lovely Red-headed Woodpecker along with a Northern Flicker. Also a Yellow-breasted Chat showed well.

A bit further around the trail we encountered a stunning Hooded Warbler and a family of Brown-headed Nuthatches. An Osprey perched on a telegraph pole at very close range, the best view I’d ever had of one. A Roadrunner was briefly seen running along the road in front of us and a Broad-winged Hawk flew overhead,

We moved onto another area of woodland seeing both Turkey and Black Vultures on the way. Here we saw a beautiful Prothonotory Warbler, Chimney Swift, Eastern Bluebird. The wistful song of a Wood Thrush was heard but we couldn’t locate it. We also spent some time pursuing a warbler that on song seemed to be a Swainson’s. However after much stalking another Hooded appeared before us. The two bird theory again perhaps? 

Early afternoon we drove up to the Brazos Bend reserve, famed for being one of the best in the state. It was amazing for waterbirds and walking around the wetlands we saw American Coots, Little Blue Heron, Anhinga, Pied-billed Grebes, both Yellow and Black-crowned Night Heron, Green Heron and White Ibis. At one point we briefly saw a Pileated Woodpecker fly over the trees and we set off in pursuit. Eventually, a loud hammering led us to a clearing where we saw the bird at very close quarters. We also had Downy Woodpecker in the same area. 

Then it was back on the road headed for Austin. We stopped at the Whataburger in Bastrop after dark and on returning to the car noticed a number of Common Nighthawks flying around the car park lights. 

The American Birding association (ABA) gives its members contact lists for different areas in the states. We phoned up the local contact to help plan the next day and for advice on accommodation. Amazingly John and Barbara Ribble invited us to stay with them and offered to act as guides the following day, an incredible act of hospitality. Bearing in mind by now we were pretty unkempt, although Cos had at least been reunited with his luggage. 

We saw an Eastern Wood-Pewee, White-winged Dove and later on a Raccoon in their garden before being fed some supper and settling down for a comfortable night’s sleep. 

DAY 4  Edwards Plateau, Texas 

However, it was up at the crack of dawn again and out to the region near Austin known as the Edwards Plateau.

This area has some real specialities and we were headed for the first of them, Golden-cheeked Warbler. It was still only just getting light when we got to the sight. An Ash-throated Flycatcher was in a tree nearby, tricky to identify but according to the distribution this was the only one it could be!  A Chuck Will's-widow could be heard but not seen. As we motored slowly along the roads listening carefully we saw Bewick’s Wren, a female Painted Bunting then, before too long there was the warbler singing from a bush in front of us, a real stunner! 

We moved quickly on to our next stake out, Hippie Hollow Country Park. We wandered around for quite a while, seeing a Rufous-crowned Sparrow but not our target species. We had just about given up and were on our way back to the cars when Cos and I saw a small bird fly past us, it clearly had a black head with white ‘spectacles’, it had to be Black-capped Vireo, but it vanished into the bushes never to be seen again. I’m not sure the others believed our sighting! 

On our way to the next site we stopped for a while at a bridge over a river to watch both Bank and Cliff Swallows flying in and out from within the girders. Cave Swallows were also seen as well as a Belted Kingfisher shooting past. A scan around gave us very distant views of a Crested Caracara.  

 On arrival at Hornsey Bend sewerage works we were faced with an id problem. There was a small group of waders on an island in the middle, one of which was clearly a Lesser Yellowlegs, another a Pectoral Sandpiper but the others were small ‘peeps’. None of us were that good at this group. After some debate some of the birds became more active and we could clearly see they had white rumps, so White-rumped Sandpipers they had to be. Other rather easier water birds were Wood Duck, Ruddy Ducks and Blue-winged Teal.  

Back in Austin we were shown the Monk Parakeets in a nearby park, being introduced birds, and then we were off on a twitch. A local reservoir had been home to a Blue-footed Booby for the best part  of a year and its favourite spot was the diving board in the garden of a very obliging lady. She had a guest book (signed by over 5000 birders) and had even had tee-shirts printed which, unfortunately had just sold out. After signing in we made our way towards the bird, gingerly taking pictures from a little distance, before realising that you could walk right up to it! 

Me and the Blue footed Booby 

Nearby was a superb area of real desert, carpeted with flowers at this time, complete with cacti and some real desert birds. We heard and saw our first Cactus Wrens, saw two Roadrunners fighting in front of the car and watched a superb male Lark Sparrow on a cactus. Mary expertly pished out a singing Bells Vireo, it’s amazing how birds respond to this in the States. 

In the evening we had a memorable Mexican meal with the Ribbles to thank them for their wonderful hospitality and then we were back on the road. It was a long drive to the Davis Mountains so there wouldn’t be any time to wimp out and get some sleep 

DAY 5  Davis mountains, Texas 

Talking amongst ourselves to try and keep Cosmo awake at the wheel we drove for hours across the Texas plains, it was probably around two in the morning and about 70 miles east of Fort Stockton that the petrol light came on! We limped to the next roadside gas station but there was unlikely to be any life here for a good while, this would have meant serious time delay so we called out the AAA (American AA) and slept in the car for a couple of hours until the man arrived and topped us up.  

Another couple of hours and we were arriving, with the dawn, at the Davis Mountains State Park. As we emerged from the car we heard a Poor Will calling (another onomatopoeic) but again, couldn’t locate this Nightjar species. Cassin's Kingbirds were extremely noisy wakers. As the sun rose we saw many species in this lovely area, Canyon Towhee, Rufous-crowned Sparrows, a Black-headed Grosbeak and some very tame Tufted Titmouse(s) (ice)?? 

The side of the mountain would normally have contained thick scrub but a recent fire had left it quite bare with fresh shoots emerging. A walk up the hill gave us superb views of two Montezuma Quails in the open, these are much sought after birds and I suspect that normally they would have been impossible to find in the vegetation. We also saw a Say’s Phoebe and a Black-throated Hummingbird. 

At the visitor centre I treated myself to a ‘Montezuma Quail’ Tee-shirt. Unfortunately Montezuma was having his revenge for the Mexican meal the night before, at least for Ron and Cos. The toilets at the centre were very popular for a while during the course of the morning but eventually we were ready to move on. On leaving the park we met a family party of Collared Peccaries (Wild pigs) which passed by very close to us. 

We drove higher into the mountains and stopped at a place called Limpia Creek. A Chipping Sparrow was seen feeding on the road, a Western Bluebird was seen and a Ladder-backed Woodpecker flew into a nearby tree. Walking back down the road by the creek a Canyon Wren sang its rather Willow warbler like song from the opposite side and occasionally showed. Walking ahead of the others I checked the guidebook and found that I was to descend the road until a green waste bin was found and then search the large Cottonwood Tree by the creek. Here I would find one of the area’s specialities. These sort of directions always sound unlikely so I was quite astounded when I followed them and found myself with crippling scope views of a Black Hawk in the aforementioned tree. 

It was several hours drive to Big Bend national park. This is the biggest park in the USA and boasts the highest bird list. The big bend is in fact the turn of the famous Rio Grande, the border with Mexico. As we descended from the mountains the terrain became increasingly arid until we found ourselves in real desert, with the mountains of Big Bend prominent in the distance. Several birding stops by the desert scrub gave us Black-throated Sparrow, Cassin’s Sparrow, a Blue Grosbeak at a roadside oasis known as Sam Nail’s ranch and a Chihuahuan Raven overhead.

Big Bend National Park 

Approaching the village of Rio Grande we saw a Scaled Quail crossing the road and more Roadrunners. We parked up and walked down to the river. We were almost literally a stone’s throw from Mexico here so it’s not surprising that the birds have a  distinct neotropical flavour, a stunning Vermilion Flycatcher was seen and a Summer Tanager was in the large trees by the water, a male Painted Bunting flew across and disappeared.

Late afternoon we decided to park in a sheltered spot near to a known Elf Owl site and have a rest so as we were all lacking sleep somewhat we were soon crashed out. About an hour later I awoke and gazed out of the window, the Elf Owl was sitting on a pole just above the car! 

It was too insecty to stay by the river so we drove to a visitor centre further into the desert. It was then we discovered that we had left one of the sleeping bags in Austin. I volunteered to sleep in the car whilst the other two slept on the pavement in the bags, it was very hot and sticky inside and they had a much more comfortable night than me. 

DAY 6  Big Bend, Texas 

The target for today was Colima Warbler, this has its sole site in the US in the Chisos mountains in Big Bend and we were going to need to climb up to see it. Of course we were in the middle of the Chihuahuan Desert and it was going to get pretty hot. So the plan was to get up before dawn and get a lot of the uphill walking out of the way before the sun got too far up. 

I awoke to find the sun already over the distant hills and hurriedly awoke the other two. A Curve-billed Thrasher sang from the scrub by the roadside and a Black-throated Sparrow showed superbly as we hurriedly changed and dashed off towards the mountains, after a brief stop for some provisions, including a gallon pack of water, each! 

The climb up wasn’t too steep and we saw lots of birds on the way. A Grey-breasted Jay flew in front of us, a Rufous-sided Towhee fed on the ground, a Hutton’s Vireo skulked in the bushes and eventually showed well. As we gained height the vegetation became more lush, the views across to Mexico were amazing and it was a little cooler. We were soon seeing Colima Warblers, they weren’t the most obliging of birds but we had several reasonable views, a Western Wood-Pewee was also seen. 

On reaching Boot Springs we were able to rest by the springs under the shade of the trees. A Cordilleran Flycatcher hunted from a branch nearby and we were visited by a Blue-throated Hummingbird, its throat catching the light superbly.

Further round the trail we saw Violet Green Swallows, several Acorn Woodpeckers, my favourite of the new world Peckers, and both Blue-gray and Black-tailed Gnatcatchers. 

On descending into the desert heat we saw a Hepatic Tanager and a Golden Fronted Woodpecker.  A short drive brought us to the Cottonwood camp ground where we saw a Swainson’s Hawk on some wires, a Pyrrhuloxia and a Bronzed Cowbird.  

Given the last few nights discomfort we thought we’d treat ourselves to a cabin for the night in the Chisos basin and we were able to have a proper shower and sleep in a bed for a change, but not before we’d been on an unsuccessful Owl hunt which ended up by looking at Jupiter’s moons through the scopes. You certainly get a good view of the stars out in this desert. 

DAY 7  Big Bend and drive to Lower Rio Grande 

We also treated ourselves to a bit of a lie in. We had half a day to bird locally then we were to drive down to the Lower Rio Grande, some several hundred miles away!

We chose to follow a trail nearby to Blue creek canyon. We saw a lovely Varied Bunting but not too many other species. It seems we lost the trail and ended up wandering down an ever narrowing canyon.  Visions of Mountain Lions on the rocks above were had but nothing seen in reality. Ron slipped and hurt his knee whilst scrambling to a Cactus on the side of the canyon. We heard and saw a few Rock Wrens but we eventually decided to move on. 

A drive across the open desert with low scrub on either side and a misfortune. A Deer suddenly raced into the road from the scrub and there was nothing we could do to avoid it. It smashed into the wing of the car turned a somersault in the air and landed on the opposite side of the road. We were all very upset and what was worse was that it didn’t seem to be dead. The car was dented but still functional despite the radiator appearing to have been damaged, so we raced to the visitor centre and alerted a ranger. Unfortunately he seemed more interested in taking our names and addresses than putting the Deer out of its misery but he left eventually.  

Another target for the park was Lucifer Hummingbird, a scarce bird which, according to the books, frequented the Century Plants which were to be found dotted around the desert. We optimistically chose an area where we could view several plants and kept scanning. Almost immediately a Hummer came to the nearest plant, Yes! We could clearly see the curved bill, it was a Lucifer, what a stroke of luck! 

Flushed with success and recovering from the gloom of the Deer’s demise we set off down the Rio Grande. We drove all afternoon, stopping at some ponds in Del Rio where we found a Spotted Sandpiper and a huge colony of Bank Swallows (House Martins) as well as a Killdeer and a Black-necked Stilt. 

We eventually reached Loredo where, unfortunately it was the night that all the Mexicans come over from New Loredo on the other side of the river. Not wanting to spend the night on the streets of Loredo we continued searching and managed to find a hotel for a few precious hours of sleep. 

DAY 8  The Lower Rio Grande, Texas 

Another early start to drive the stretch to Falcon Dam at dawn. The vegetation was now subtropical and very lush and the birds here are, once again, more neotropical than North American. New birds came thick and fast, a bizarre looking Groove-billed Ani, a Couch’s Kingbird and a very colourful Great Kiskadee, looking more like a Kingfisher than a flycatcher. An Olive Sparrow sang its ping pong ball song and then we heard the real target of this spot, a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl. I imitated the whistling call and, much to my surprise, because I rarely get it to work with owls at home, the bird came closer and closer. Soon we were getting good views of the bird through the branches.

Continuing on the trail we saw a Northern Bobwhite cross the path and a Long-billed Thrasher showed itself briefly. Then the most colourful of them all, a stunning Green Jay, followed as we approached the river again by a Green Kingfisher. A Tortoise was seen by the path, which showed its disgust at being picked up by Ron by evacuating its bowels over him. On the river vegetation were several Olivaceous Cormorants and a Red billed Pigeon. A Chachalaca brought attention to itself by screaming its name at us from a tree.

The conversation had touched on drug smuggling across the river in these parts as mentioned in the literature. The apparent noise of a boat nearby, we had seen no-one else in the area, spooked us out and together, we sprinted back to the dam and the car and got out quickly! 

It was getting hot again. The lower river from late May onwards is incredibly hot, we really should have gone earlier. However, after driving a short distance, we decided to have a walk round and as we were passing a house a lady emerged and revealed herself to be a birder. She invited us in (bearing in mind this was 3 scruffy, unshaven individuals) and over a cup of tea pointed out the roosting Eastern Screech Owl in her garden, Superb. She told us of the birds that had passed through earlier in the season and how she was moving north for the summer the next day to avoid the heat. 

Our next stop was Santa Ana, a wonderful tropical reserve of ponds and forest. We saw a lot of the same birds as at the dam but the pools had a Northern Jacana (something of a rarity in the states) and a summer plumage male Masked Duck (again, a rarity). There was also Least Grebe, Pied-billed Grebes, Ruddy Ducks, Black-necked Stilts, Spotted Sandpiper, Killdeer and a migrant Black-throated Green Warbler. We spent some time looking for Ringed Kingfisher but without success. 

As the darkness fell we drove around the tracks near Bentson and eventually found a Pauraque in the road. We stopped at a Hotel 6 in McAllen. 

DAY 9 Lower Rio Grande, Texas 

First light found us at nearby Bentson to a stake out for the next target bird, Hook-billed Kite.  A wetland area produced another Roseate Spoonbill as well as the scarce White-faced Ibis. A Barn Owl flew past, obviously not a new tick but this bird looked big compared to ours. In fact the Nat Geo guide gives length 41cm compared to 33-39cm in Europe, so USA really is bigger.

Then a Raptor emerged as if from roost and flew towards us and past. My bins were a little steamed up, it’s very humid there, but I could easily make out the large bill and the banded tail. It was the Hook-billed alright. A stroll round the rest of the reserve gave us a good selection of the specialities again with Green Jay being evident at the feeders. We also saw White-tipped Dove and Common Ground Dove whilst some Muscovy Ducks on the edge of the river could have been wild, maybe. 

We returned to Santa Ana to look for some of the birds we had missed the day before. This time we saw a beautiful Altamira Oriole near to the entrance and as we walked around the trails in the trees draped in Spanish Moss we saw a Buff-breasted Hummingbird. Kiskadee and Chachalaca were both seen again and duly admired. 

We then drove on to the more open areas of the Laguna Atascosa. This was rather lacking in water, presumably because it was almost summer now but we parked up next to a flooded field to view a colony of superb Black Skimmers. There was also Great White Egret, Tricolored Heron and a Wilson’s Plover. Driving around the tracks we didn’t see too many birds, the migrant waders would have largely passed on, however, rounding a corner we encountered an enormous Western Diamond-backed Rattlesnake!  We all got out of the car, Ron and Cos rushed up to the snake and stared taking photographs. It didn’t seem to appreciate this and coiled back dangerously, no rattle was heard though. I decided a more cautious approach was called for and took my shots from behind the car! Soon it grew bored and slithered off into the scrub. 

Spot the Rattlesnake, no I’m not going any closer! 

Further round we saw a Caspian Tern, Gull-billed Terns, Willets and a Horned (Shore) Lark. We then drove on to Brownsville where we stayed, yet again in the Motel 6. 

DAY 10  Drive to Houston, Texas 

Today’s target bird was not the most exciting of the trip. Right on the border with Mexico the town dump at Brownsville is the only place in the US where Mexican Crow ventures across. So the first few hours of the days were spent scouring the dump. Eventually one was found next to a Chihuahuan Raven which gave a good chance to study the two side by side. 

The rest of the day involved the long drive all the way along the coast of Texas back to Houston to complete the circle. 

On Route 77 there is a rest stop which is well known to birders and holds some of the local specialities. After having some refreshment we wandered off to explore the trees and bushes and soon found the Tropical Parula, again possibly the only site in US for this bird. A short distance away we saw a beautiful Hooded Oriole. 

Another stop somewhere en route was made to watch a White-tailed Hawk fly over and the only other sightings of note were when we had to resort to a ferry. Some Sandwich Terns, new for the trip were seen and several sightings of Dolphins were had although I am unsure which species. The Motel 6 at Huntsville was the nights stop.  

DAY 11 Birding around Houston, Texas 

Today was our flight to Phoenix for the next stage of the trip but first there was time for a bit more birding around Houston. A relatively short drive up to Jones State Park for another woodpecker was called for. A walk around the big conifers in the park resulted in several sightings of the superb Red headed Woodpecker and eventually the target species, a Red-cockaded Woodpecker, a rare bird in the states but with a number of nest sites in these woods. 

With still a bit of time left we briefly visited Huntsville park. Here we saw both Pine and Hooded Warblers, our second Pileated Woodpecker of the trip and a Northern Parula, there were other species to be had here, Black-and-white Warbler would have been possible but we had run out of time for Texas. We had to get our rather sickly hire car back to the airport, it was looking the worse for wear after its encounter with the Deer but fortunately the insurance was up to it. 

We had a few Budweisers whilst waiting to board our flight and it was then that a significant exchange took place. We were playing the game of ‘what bird would you most like to see’ and I immediately said Great Grey Owl. Cos was pensive for a moment and then announced that we were going to go and see one. We would go back to LA, and then on to Yosemite where he had a stake out for the Owl. I was stunned, I’d really wanted to spend some time on Arizona, to do this we would have to cut that part of the trip short, in fact we would only have one and a half days birding there, but on the other hand a Great Grey Owl was waiting. I argued the case for some time but Ron was in support of Cos and I was outnumbered. The amount of driving involved was going to be huge, just have a look at a map of US, we would have to drive from Tucson to LA and then 5 more hours to Yosemite!  

The plan was hatched, several phone calls were made and Cos had arranged to pick up two others, the aforementioned Pete and another birder Louis, who led trips in the area for the Audubon Society. They would arrange a hired van for the trip.  

But this was for a few days time and we had to get as many birds as possible in Arizona first. We boarded the plane and flew in between several thunderstorms to land in Phoenix. Picking up Cos’s car once more we drove down to Tucson and spent the night in the Motel 6. 

DAY 12  Around Tucson, Arizona 

Dawn found us in the desert again, this time at the St Saviour Mission, a religious refuge near Tucson. The target bird was found very quickly, a rather drab Rufous-winged Sparrow. We had to be careful of the id points but we had good views so no problems. Curve billed Thrashers were relatively common and we tried playing a tape of a Crissal Thrasher, a tricky bird to get. After a short time another Thrasher appeared in front of us, this time with arrow markings on its breast. It was a Bendire’s, obviously with a similar call, but still a new bird for Ron and myself.

A family group of Gambel’s Quails were also seen near the mission. 

As we were returning to the car we saw a massive Tarantula Spider crossing the road. Unfortunately there was an even larger truck bearing down on it. Ron was all for rushing over and rescuing it, we dissuaded him as he was likely to be choosing between a nasty bite from a spider or getting hit by the truck!  We willed the truck to miss it, but splat! Sadly that was the end of it, the only wild one I’ve ever seen. 

Driving on to Patagonia we stopped by a creek with a few tall trees nearby. Almost immediately we saw a lovely Rose-throated Becard, apparently many trips earlier than ours miss this bird. A Thick-billed Kingbird was also seen by the trees, although there was some dispute over its id with other birders, I’m going with Cos’s verdict. An Indigo Bunting was also seen by the car park here. This area consists of fairly arid grasslands and we set off around the trails. We saw a skulking Lucy’s Warbler and a Zone-tailed Hawk. Other new birds were a Gila Woodpecker and Brown-crested Flycatcher.  One unpleasant aspect of this area are the Chiggers, these are tiny burrowing mites that live in the long grass and just love any bare flesh that wanders past.  We were all foolishly wearing shorts and for weeks afterwards we were scratching violently. I had bites all up my legs and up to my chest!    

A local resident had a hummer feeder in the garden which was known to attract certain scarce Hummingbirds during the course of the year. We sat with several others and watched for a while and saw several Broad-billed and Black-throated Hummingbirds. Then a murmur of excitement among the watchers as a Violet-crowned Hummingbird arrived. This was the star of the show at this time.

On the way back to the car we saw Black Phoebe near the creek and a Phainopepla. 

Then it was on to possibly the most famous birding spot in Arizona, Madera Canyon. It was searingly hot by the time we parked the car and made our way up through the tourist lodges and into the canyon proper. Feeders by the lodges were again attracting Hummingbirds, we saw Black-throated and then the Magnificent Hummingbird, which was!  A White-breasted Nuthatch was very obliging and allowed close approach and a Coopers Hawk shot past us and into a bush. A Solitary Vireo skulked in the bushes. Higher up the canyon, with a tunnel of trees on either side closed in and became steeper. We saw a Painted Redstart, one of the area’s specialities, a cracking bird which hugged the side of the trees like a Treecreeper. A Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher was also evident but we were disappointed not to find the Elegant Trogons which supposedly nest in the canyon. At one point we thought we heard one but it turned out to be a squirrel!   

Retracing our steps back down into the desert we established ourselves by a dry creek which was known as a stakeout for Buff collared Nightjar. We waited as dusk fell. A Botteri’s Sparrow was seen and a Poorwill was heard from the creek but no sign of the target bird. So it was back to Tucson for the night. 

DAY 13  Mount Lemmon – Drive to LA 

We drove to Mount Lemmon across a classic Arizona desert landscape of Giant Saguaros.

Arizona landscape, Giant Saguaros 

The mountain itself is driveable on a road which winds its way through a series of life zones, with desert at the bottom and coniferous forest at the top. It therefore needs regular stops to do it justice. Our first one gave us a Black-throated Grey Warbler, the second a Virginia Warbler but it was the forest at the top that was most productive for new birds. An American Robin sang and showed well, a male Yellow-rumped Warbler was striking but the real star was a stunning Red-faced Warbler. Other birds up there were Hermit Thrush, Pygmy Nuthatch and Warbling Vireo. 

Sadly it was then time to quit Arizona and head for the final stage of the trip. So, taking it in turns to drive we made our way back to Phoenix and then followed the highway to LA. We saw few birds of note on this stretch of desert and apart from having to stop and let the car cool down once or twice and watching a few mini dust tornados the trip was not notable. We passed Palm Springs and the forest of Wind Turbines nearby and then we were back in LA. We were joined by Pete and Louis complete with van and stopped off at a local supermarket for provisions, at around midnight!  My first experience of 24 hr shopping. Then, Ron and I sleeping in the back of the van, we were off overnight to Yosemite. 

DAY 14 Yosemite National Park, California 

We arrived in the dark at Crane Flats Meadows in Yosemite National Park and continued to get what sleep we could until it got light enough to bird. Walking around the edge of the woods we heard the toy trumpet call of a Red-breasted Nuthatch before locating it in the high trees above us. We also saw MacGillivray’s and Hermit Warblers. After a circuit of the area we spotted the Owl’s nest with the female partially showing on it. Some other birders had gathered at the edge of a clearing and one, who had an expensive Questar telescope motioned me to look into it. There, filling the scope, crystal clear in image, was a huge male Great Grey Owl. It is difficult to find a superlative to describe this, what a bird!

We then watched the male hunting around the clearing for some time before we thought we should leave it be. 

We moved on to another area near to a stream (sadly location not recorded) which was alive with birds, we saw a Dark Eyed Junco, a Red-breasted Sapsucker, White-headed Woodpecker, Brown Creeper and Lazuli Bunting. A tiny Hummingbird which was rather silhouetted had to be a Calliope, a Black Swift flew overhead (this one was even new to Pete) and a Brewer’s Blackbird was seen.  We encountered some ringers in action, one guy was struggling to get a ring on a Belted Kingfisher and we had a lovely close look at the bird. I was rather concerned at how distressed it seemed as he struggled with it.

Finally a Vaux’s Swift was spotted flying over. 

Driving on across the park we stopped to admire a Mountain Quail by the side of the road. We eventually parked up at the popular Glacier Point and I was dozing again in the van. Suddenly I was rudely awakened by Louis shaking me, “Wake up, quickly, we’ve got a Blue Grouse over here”, I struggled to wake up and hauled myself over to the others to find a female Blue Grouse sitting beneath a bush, it could have been a nice male to be worth waking up for!  Wandering around the area near the point we saw a Hairy Woodpecker and as I was sitting looking at the stupendous views from up here I noticed Ron gesticulating for me to look behind me. As I turned a Townsend’s Solitaire flew away from me, I didn’t see it properly but apparently it was about two feet behind me! 

Half Dome Rock, Yosemite National Park  

Towards evening we stopped by the park fire station and set out to explore the area. We saw both Cassin’s and Purple Finches, a Pine Siskin, a singing Fox Sparrow, Nashville Warbler, Mountain Chickadee, a Golden-crowned Kinglet way up in the trees, Lincoln ‘s Sparrow, a Scott’s Warbler and a beautiful Williamson’s Sapsucker. 

We slept at around 9000ft at a place called White Wolf. It was freezing and we were rather ill prepared for such conditions as this was supposed to have been a desert trip!

A very uncomfortable night was spent with all available clothing and blankets being utilised. 

DAY 15 Yosemite and drive to LA 

Another great start to a day. Getting out of the van to a frost covered world the first birds we saw were a very obliging pair of Pine Grosbeaks, another much wanted bird. They both came very close giving superb views.

We drove up to the highest part of the park, a wonderful landscape of snow covered mountains. We saw a Clark’s Nutcracker and searched hard for ‘booming’ Blue Grouse, unsuccessfully. On the descent we stopped at Tolumno Meadows, new birds here were Green-tailed Towhee and Mountain Bluebird. A stunning Violet-Green Swallow showing against the rock face stands in my memory. A Pinyon Jay was seen as well as a passing California Gull. 

Cos, Pete, Ron and Louis looking for Blue Grouse high up in Yosemite 

From the freezing conditions at the top we descended to a baking desert, two extremes in the matter of about 2 hours. We stopped at Mono Lake with its strange crystalline formations and got Brewer’s Sparrow and a Sage Thrasher on its shores. 

Then it was a drive back to LA, with a number of planned stops. Firstly we stopped at a reservoir close to the main highway. There was a pair of Clarks Grebes on the water and a Yellow-headed Blackbird in the bushes. Next we diverted across part of the Mohave Desert to a desert Oasis well known for its migrant birds. It was a windswept desolate place consisting of sand dunes and low scrub. We saw two Empidomax flycatchers near the small stream which, after some analysis of their calls were deemed to be a Willow Flycatcher and Pacific Slope Flycatcher.  This place rather spooked me however, particularly when it was described as ideal habitat for the Mohave Green, a particularly venomous snake. I was very glad to leave the place. 

When we eventually got back to LA it was getting dark and we climbed over the walls of a local park which was another stake out. After scouring the trees we eventually caught three young Great Horned Owls in the spotlight. It wasn’t brilliant views and we were interrupted by the arrival of a car on the park drive. We tried to hide behind the trees but the guy in the car, who was the park warden had spotted us. It was a good job he wasn’t armed!  We played the dumb Englishman card and he let us leave with some gentle disapproval. 

The night was spent on the floor of Cosmo’s flat in North Hollywood. 

DAY 16 Birding around LA then home 

Once again we were out at dawn, ticking off Spotted Dove near the flat and then driving to the edge of the hills. On parking the car we had to walk through a field full of caravans occupied by a Hollywood film crew. They weren’t up yet and I never did find out what the film was! A walk up the valley was most productive, with Wrentit, Orange-crowned Warbler, Anna’s Hummingbird and California Quail all being new birds as well as a Lazuli Bunting. 

We then headed for the coast at Malibu. Many film stars have their houses in this area and several were pointed out to us by a local birder, I believe Barbara Striesand was one but I don’t think I’d heard of the others! The beach area was good for birds though and we saw a good collection of Gulls and Waders, Western Gulls, Heermann's Gulls, a Bonaparte’s Gull, a male Wilson’s Phalarope, Grey Plovers as well as a Black Brant and some Gadwall. 

We walked further round seeing Caspian Terns, Elegant Terns, a Marbled Godwit and a Long billed Curlew flying past. Out on the sea were Brown Pelicans and a Pelagic Cormorant.  We also saw an Allen’s Hummingbird. 

We were headed for the airport now but it lies right on the coast and there is a nearby marina which can be very productive. We had a Black Oystercatcher on the rocks as well as Turnstones and a Brandt’s Cormorant.  The last new bird of the trip were Least Terns, there was a large colony on the beach cordoned off from the public and apparently thriving. 

Then it was back on the 747 and back to London. I was so exhausted I slept the whole flight back, something I’d never managed before, or since. My final tally was 289 new species so it was worth it!