Southern Spain - 8th to 15th July 2006

Mike & Bridgette King

Our first childfree holiday where the weather remained hot and sunny all week, with temperatures in the mid-30's and occasional high cloud and flashes of lightning but no rain lasting more than two minutes. Some days there was a very strong breeze particularly at Teba and along the Tarifa coastline. As ever I am grateful to Bridgette for driving us around safely whilst I searched for birds. Plenty to go for - some more successful than others - here is our story.

Sat 8th July 2006

Quedgeley to Benalmádena, Costa del Sol, Spain

After a quiet run down to Cardiff Airport we flew out to Málaga in Southern Spain on time with BMI Baby. We landed at Málaga at 2pm local time and entered the furnace that was Costa del Sol. Our hire car was unfortunately pre-booked with Centauro (note this as a name to avoid) and took as long as our flight out - two and a quarter hours - before it was available! Our first birds in Spain were the ubiquitous House Sparrow, which is very common here from beach to mountain top. The first "real" Spanish birds were four Pallid Swifts over the apartment at Benalmádena as we settled in. This was quickly followed by 10+ Yellow-legged Gulls around the town. After unpacking we set out for a walk around the local park before finding a restaurant. The park lake held three Ruddy Shelducks, certainly tame, and four Mute Swans, which I wasn’t sure about, so didn't tick. Over 100 Spotless Starlings flew in to the park in small groups before roosting noisily in clumps of scattered trees. Many Swifts were overhead, almost all Common, but one Alpine Swift was amongst them, the only one of the week. We dined at La Quinta, the restaurant affiliated to our apartments - the Royal Oasis Club at Benal Beach - Bridgette had a nice duck dish and I had traditional Spanish fish and chips. La Quinta is open to non-residents and can be recommended. A Turkish Gecko eyed us from the wall as we ate. Returning home we sat on the balcony enjoying a cuppa where we were serenaded by Iberian Marsh Frogs (Rana pereziin) from the ornamental ponds in the grounds. A European Pond Terrapin was also here but I don't know how it got there. Species total = 12.

Sun 9th July 2006

Benalmádena to Teba, El Chorro and Laguna Fuente de Piedra

I rose early and attempted to find myself a local patch. After this morning I knew it wasn't going to happen, the whole south coast is a building site. However I gamely went all over the town on foot searching green areas for signs of a possible patch to adopt. I did find a few good birds around some ornamental ponds and site excavations. The best of these in order of discovery were three Spotted Flycatchers, three White Wagtails, two Sardinian Warblers, a Cattle Egret, a Serin and a Melodious Warbler. I also found a bank, which seemed to be alive with Brown Rats, which may explain why there were cats everywhere. I returned for breakfast hot and pretty much defeated. 

After breakfast we set out to Laguna Fuente de Piedra with several stops along the way. The first of these at a motorway services yielded 6+ Crested Larks, a Corn Bunting, a Pallid Swift, three Spotless Starlings and a Scarce Swallowtail butterfly.  Pushing on towards Campillos we searched for Laguna Dulce, which had been productive on our last visit. After a couple of failed attempts we realised that we were in the right place, but due to the intense heat Laguna Dulce was now a field, completely dried out. We did see our first Griffon Vulture of the week over Campillos.

We decided to head for Teba where we would eat our picnic lunch and take stock. After a testing drive around the winding streets we parked up overlooking the valley and here we ate our food. Above us on high ground atop the cliffs was an old fort. Whilst Bridgette finished her lunch I walked to the edge of the rocks and immediately found three superb BLACK WHEATEARS, my first life tick of the trip. Bridgette joined me and we decided we would head up to the fort. A stupid decision given the scorching heat and strong breeze, the fact that neither of us was wearing hats and we’d left both cameras in the car. At the top 6+ Griffon Vultures were overhead and a huge flock of 83 Choughs left the cliffs below us a circled around the ridge. We explored the fort, which was surprisingly open. I went up three floors but did not venture out onto the third floor as the floorboards looked rotten and you could see the floor below through gaping holes. The way to the roof was barred. I did take a photo of the fort with my mobile. Leaving Teba we moved on towards Fuente de Piedra, stopping along the way at a reservoir at El Chorro. A Red-rumped Swallow was here, with another seen at Campillos and a Bee-eater flew overhead carrying food. I didn’t stay out of the sanctuary of the air-conditioned car for long because the afternoon heat was searing.

When we arrived at Laguna Fuente de Piedra (off of Junction 132 of the A92) the lake appeared to be just a dry basin but on looking to the far left we could see a pink haze where 2000+ Greater Flamingoes were gathered in the only stretch of remaining water. I knew the only way I was going to get close enough to take usable photos was to yomp the half mile or so to get closer. Bridgette took one look and decided she’d seen them well enough the last time we were here in 2001 and settled under the shade of an Olive tree. I set off towards the lake’s edge seeing on the way a juvenile Southern Grey Shrike, a male Stonechat and 3+ Crested Larks. Midway towards my destination about fifty Gull-billed Terns got up from their roost and flew over my head. I got in a sheltered position out of the wind and started to take photos of the Flamingoes. After having reasonable success I turned my attention to the other birds present – there were 10+ Black-winged Stilts with some juveniles, ten Lapwings including one chick, three Avocets, 50+ Black-headed Gulls, two Yellow-legged Gulls and a lone Moorhen. When I arrived back I was suffering from the exertion in the heat and was pleased to get back into the cool car. I was disappointed once again not to get lucky with my bogey European species - Slender-billed Gull, which breed here some years. Species total = 38.

This flamingo (B|3N) was ringed here in 1988.

Black-winged Stilts

Mon 10th July 2006

Benalmádena, Rio Guadalhorce, Málaga and Cañada del Lobo

After our long day yesterday we decided on a lazy day today. We stayed around the resort for much of the morning where the only birds of note were two Monk Parakeets that flew over. After a late lunch we headed out towards Málaga and arrived at Rio Guadalhorce at 5pm. We were on the left fork of the river, near Carrefour, as you face the sea. Two things were immediately noticeable – the smell (not in a good way) and hosts of birds, presumably attracted to the flies that that sort of smell invites. There were 50+ Black-winged Stilts, a Redshank, a Common Sandpiper, a Kentish Plover, an adult and a juvenile Spanish Wagtail (iberiae), a Crested Lark, 3+ Monk Parakeets and a Cattle Egret together with other common species. I also glimpsed a sandpiper, which looked worryingly like Pectoral, but it flew the instant I found it and I couldn’t relocate it. I suppose Wood is more likely, although four Pecs were here in the Spring. I also had a Small Blue butterfly and an False Ilex Hairstreak here.

After a shopping trip to Carrefour to stock up on essentials we headed back to Benalmádena. On the way we stopped on a new development on the edge of some wild habitat, which had a road leading up to Cañada del Lobo. I asked Bridgette to give me 15 minutes for a quick recce. In that short time I found a Dartford Warbler, a female Sardinian Warbler, two Turtle Doves and a Spotted Flycatcher and a Meadow Brown butterfly. Species total = 48.

Tue 11th July 2006

Alhambra Palace, Granada and Sierra Nevada

Today was going to be a long day. We were heading for the Alhambra Palace, and following our disappointment at not getting in in 2001, this time we had pre-booked. We left early to make use of the slightly cooler hours to travel. A few notable birds were seen en route including three Monk Parakeets, ten Spotless Starlings and a Hoopoe over high up all near Málaga, a Cattle Egret was at Km 154 on the A-45 and a Montagu’s Harrier flew over the road at Villaneuva del Trabuco. I wasn’t worried that it was a poor view of the Hoopoe because I would surely see plenty later – wouldn’t I? We arrived at the Alhambra Palace with about an hour to kill before the time on our entry ticket for the actual Palace itself, so we wandered around the gardens. A male Blackcap was singing in the car park. The air was alive with Swifts, over 500 maybe even a thousand, in every direction. Most if not all that I looked at closely were Common but there were surely Pallid with them as well. Also of note were two Red-rumped Swallows, a male Serin and two Spotless Starlings. A little further along there was a small colony of Lesser Kestrels on the wall surrounding the Palace. There were 4+ males, a female and a juvenile. We had cracking views. I don’t know if it’s just me but the call of Lessers always sounds somewhat parrot-like to my ears. As we waited to enter the Palace a Crag Martin, the first of two here, gave good close views showing its white tail spots. Also a Peregrine was over the tallest tower. Following our visit we had another walk around some more of the gardens. We saw a pair of Sardinian Warblers, a Firecrest, two Red Squirrels, a Common Wall Lizard, two large Iberian Marsh Frogs (Rana pereziin) were in one of the ornamental ponds, a large Carpenter Bee, two Scarce Swallowtails (see pic below), two Bath Whites and a Clouded Yellow butterfly. Two large olive-green/brown warblers with square ended tails, which only gave tantalising glimpses in the undergrowth remained unidentified, as did quite a few butterflies too. Frustrating!

We left the Alhambra early afternoon and started on the long drive up to Sierra Nevada, where I would be able to see Alpine Accentors. Wrong! We scoured from mountaintop to town square via the cable car stations and ski lifts. They were supposed to be easy to see at this time of year and would even appear around your feet at the cafés. For the second time I left here disappointed and added this bird to my list of must see next time. I started at the mountaintop at 2500m above sea level and although I didn’t see my prime target I did get some very good birds including my second lifer of the trip. I tramped the mountain whilst Bridgette took a nap in the car. I found a pair of Black-eared Wheatears, 20+ Crag Martins, a pair of Black Redstarts, 3+ pairs of Serins and an absolutely stonking summer-plumaged male Rock Thrush singing from an aerial on the roof of the green military base. The next bird was a lifer, which I first heard before seeing it. I heard a rather nasal “voo-ee” call and it took me a few minutes to locate it. It was a ROCK SPARROW and it was feeding two juveniles. Not very impressive to look at though – think chunky female House Sparrow and you’re about there. There were also good numbers of butterflies and moths here and in the town including Cleopatra, Scarce Swallowtails, Clouded Yellows, Wall Brown, two Blue species, Hummingbird Hawk Moth and Striped Hawk Moth plus several others I couldn’t name. We had a meal in the town square, which was like a ghost town now the snow had gone, and with it the skiers and snowboarders. Species total = 67.

Sierra Nevada (Sol Y Nieve)

Wed 12th July 2006  

Serrania de Ronda and Ronda

Today we decided to make a return visit to Ronda having enjoyed it in 2001 and being childfree we could spend more time on exploring the “boring” bits that children won’t put up with. We turned up off of the main motorway at Marbella and headed inland we had gone about ten miles, mostly up, before I glanced at the petrol gauge and noticed it was on empty. We didn’t take the chance on finding a Service Station up in the mountains so we went back down to San Pedro and filled up. As it was we might just have made it – there is one near to Ronda. Take note if you visit. We made a couple of stops on the way up and had a Raven at Km 28 and I had cracking views of a Short-toed Eagle overhead at Km 22, but unfortunately Bridgette was in the trees and missed it. 

Serrania de Ronda

We carried on up until we reached Ronda, could not park on the outskirts and ended up at a multi-storey in the middle of town. We walked through the park and along the edge of the cliffs towards the New Bridge (pictured below), worked on down to the Old Bridge and then into the valley floor at the Moorish Bridge. Then came the hard bit - the walk back up. From top to bottom we recorded some good birds. At least eight Serins, eight Crag Martins, 10+ Choughs, a brief male Blue Rock Thrush, a Rock Sparrow in the bottom of the gorge and in the smelly river at the bottom we also had two European Pond Terrapins. We also found another family party of Lesser Kestrels, this time three males, two females and a juvenile, giving a great flying display in the gorge. We dined at the very nice Atrium restaurant near the Bull Ring (and I don't mean a Shopping Centre) on a traditional dish of green beans, scrambled eggs, smoked fish and shrimps which was very tasty.

We left Ronda and stopped only a couple of miles outside the town at Km 9 La Serrania Restaurante. This promising area of olive groves, grassland and scrub yielded my first Spanish Great Tits and Blue Tit, a Woodchat Shrike, a male Cirl Bunting, a Corn Bunting, a pair of Serins, a female Chaffinch and a Stonechat in just fifteen minutes. At Km 21 we saw two Griffon Vultures and another at Km 30. A Large Psammodromus lizard was at Km 27. Best of the lot was a pale phase Booted Eagle, which gave great views at Km 36.

On the drive back along the motorway we only saw a couple of Kestrels but still no Hoopoes.

In the evening a Spotted Flycatcher was at Benal Beach and ten small Bats, probably Pipistrelles were near the park. Species total = 69.

Thu 13th July 2006

Cañada del Lobo (afternoon and evening)

Today was a day for relaxing and not going far. We had a Chilli for lunch and then after a rest went swimming. After that we drove up to the base of Cañada del Lobo and walked up for a mile or so. It was very, very hot and the birds were quiet. We did see four Serins, a Spotted Flycatcher, a Red-rumped Swallow, 1+ Dartford Warbler and a pair of the lovely Black Wheatears. Non-avian species included three Large Psammodromus lizards, 2+ Common Wall Lizards, two Swallowtails, 6+ Painted Ladies, a Small Heath, a Blue sp, and two Striped Graylings. Most interesting of all was a fresh dead Red-necked Nightjar in the middle of the road (see below). This proved beyond doubt that this would be a good site for them.

  Cañada del Lobo (Bridgette disappearing into the distance)

After tea we walked down to the upmarket Benalmádena Marina. Dozens of Grey Mullets swam in the Marina and a Mediterranean Shearwater flew past the seawall quite close-in.  

At 9pm I got Bridgette to drop me back to Cañada del Lobo, only this time she drove me up as far as the first obvious quarry-like area after a path that goes off left signed to the summit of Mount Calamorro. On the way up we passed a suspicious red car inside a gateway that was usually padlocked, but more of that later. I began a slow descent having arranged for Bridgette to pick me up at 10pm, unless I called and told her otherwise. A Black Wheatear was still showing well. The only other birds that were different to the afternoon were 6+ Pallid Swifts and a female Sardinian Warbler. As I rounded a bend the red car roared up and did a three point turn to face down the hill about a 100 metres away. Two men got out and exchanged some small packages over the roof. I thought Oh Cr*p! I've seen Miami Vice, they aren't swapping bubble gum cards. So I'm approaching their car with camera, bins, mobile and full wallet in a high-sided road in the middle of nowhere with nowhere to run. The only thing I could do was walk tall, be polite, get around the corner and speed up. So I walked past said "Hola" got no discernible response and kept going until I got round the bend and rang Bridgette and said come get me - NOW. They came back down before she arrived but by then I had reached civilisation and had witnesses in the form of a courting couple in their car. A Turtle Dove and a Little Owl both called as I waited. Bridgette arrived and it was nearly dark, I asked if she'd mind just driving up the road a bit because I'm sure we might get a Nightjar. We hadn't gone 20 metres before two RED-NECKED NIGHTJARS appeared in the headlights sat in the road giving brilliant views. A lifer which was much appreciated. Getting a photo was difficult but here is a record shot. 

So to sum up Cañada del Lobo is great for birds and other wildlife. Nice and safe during the day but at night go in your car and keep the doors locked just to be on the safe side. Cañada del Lobo is reached by passing under the motorway above Benalmádena, on a road signed for the Cementerio (Cemetery). Drive past the Cemetery on your left, then the refuse site, before finding a road off to the right signed for Cañada del Lobo. Only official vehicles are allowed up here but everyone seemed to be using it and only one was the warden. Species = 70.

Fri 14th July 2006

Sierra del Plata, Bolonia and La Janda

Today was our most ambitious trip in terms of distance. We were heading beyond Gibraltar into Cadiz province to explore Bolonia and La Janda. A Common Buzzard at Fuengirola was new for the trip. Around 40 Spotless Starlings and a Cattle Egret were at Tarifa. Four White Storks were at Algeciras occupying three pylon-top nests. 20+ Cattle Egrets were along the CA-2216 on the approach to Bolonia and a large raptor went unidentified, mainly because the Guardia Civil were in our boot so we couldn't risk a roadside stop. We drove through Bolonia and up to the Sierra del Plata, the traditional site for White-rumped and Little Swifts. We saw two Common Swifts, not too successful. However Bridgette found some Griffon Vultures roosting on the cliffs. I managed to take a few shots whilst waiting for Swifts that never came.

   

       

We descended to the very impressive Baelo Claudia Roman ruins at Bolonia (entrance free). I was still a bit miffed about dipping again when Pallid Swifts started moving through the car park. In their midst was one fabulous WHITE-RUMPED SWIFT, which came very close and gave excellent views. Another lifer - its white chin stands out as much as its rump. I could really enjoy wandering around the ruins after that.

Around the ruins we saw 28 Spotless Starlings, the only Fan-tailed Warbler of the week and 50+ Painted Ladies. Leaving the ruins we dined at a nearby beach café.

After lunch we moved on towards La Janda. La Janda is a cultivated area with large fields of Sunflowers and rice paddies. Most books say to turn right just opposite Venta de Retin off of the N-340, the building is still there but the words Venta de Retin have been whitewashed over but are still just visible.

As we turned down the track we immediately came across two Bee-eaters, which flew alongside the car. We parked up as we reached the first left turn. There were masses of birds around us, particularly in front on the private land. There were 20 Greater Flamingoes, four White Storks (the first of 19 in total seen), 25 Black-winged Stilts (12 more seen a little further on), an Avocet and three Spoonbills, one a juvenile. The only problem that made digiscoping an impossibility was the very strong breeze blowing across the whole area. We drove another 100 metres and stopped again when I saw a female Montagu’s Harrier on the ground close to the track. Also here Bridgette found a Collared Pratincole and we had three Crested Larks. A little further still we found a Purple Heron in a rice paddy, another was seen later at the edge of an irrigation channel. Further still we stopped amongst a flock of 20+ Bee-eaters, which were catching insects and perching up in dead trees, constantly giving their lovely bubbling calls. I tried to film them but the camera shake from the wind made it impossible. Whilst I was attempting this Bridgette had a brief view of a Southern Grey Shrike. Also here was a flock of ten Linnets and a Turtle Dove. The whole area was magical, even now in the height of summer, in May or October with migration going on and less wind it must be fabulous and would easily warrant a whole day. Still no Hoopoes though!

We began our return journey passing on the way the huge wind farm forest at Tarifa. There must be getting on for 500 Windmills here and we could understand why given the strength of the winds on this coast, but no so good for the thousands of migrants which pass through this area.

Notable birds were a White Stork at Barbate and a Griffon Vulture at Km 63. We also saw another large raptor, which frustratingly went unidentified because we were doing 80 on the motorway at the time; it was either a kite or a harrier. Similarly we had seen a few large raptors on the way there in Algeciras where it was again impossible to stop. We took a break at Huerte Grande Visitor Centre but it was very quiet with just two Griffon Vultures, a Spotted Flycatcher and three Turtle Doves of note.

In the evening we had a really good meal at La Quinta to celebrate the end of a brilliant week. Species total = 80.

Sat 15th July 2006

Benalmádena, Costa del Sol to Quedgeley

Our last day dawned and I saw two Mediterranean Shearwaters go through whilst I was sat on the balcony. There had probably been plenty of seabirds through during the week but I just didn’t get around to any seawatching. Bridgette joined me for breakfast and I declared that I wasn’t going home until I’d seen some Hoopoes. What we needed was a golf course and I knew just the place. We loaded up the car and drove towards Málaga. I got Bridgette to come off the motorway opposite the Shopping Village and we headed for Parador del Golf. We parked up along the slip road and got out of the car. The first thing that strikes you is the noise – screeching Monk Parakeets were everywhere. We saw 20+ but there must have been many more heard but unseen. There were several huge colonial nests in both pines and palms. See pic below showing one of the many nests with a Monk Parakeet just to the right to give you the idea of scale.

We separated and within minutes had both found Hoopoes at last. There were four in all, which fed together unconcernedly just feet from the roads edge on the fairway. We really couldn’t have asked for better views. We also had two Turtle Doves and three Spotted Flycatchers together. Happy to have seen my favourite birds I said, “Now we can go home”.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS, REFERENCES & SPECIES LIST

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Thanks to:

Bridgette – for doing all the driving again and being my favourite birding companion

Andy Paterson – for help with the pre-planning and putting up with my annoying phone calls

Richard Banham – for help with pre-planning

Rob Phillips and Mark Rowlings http://www.eurobutterflies.com/ - help with butterfly and moth i/d

REFERENCES

Books

Where to Watch Birds in Southern and Western Spain by Ernest Garcia and Andrew Patterson. Helm. 2nd Edition.

Birdwatching on Spain's Southern Coast by John R Butler. Santana Books.  2nd Edition.

Internet

Many trip reports freely available http://www.birdtours.co.uk being a good place to start.

Rare Birds in Spain http://www.rarebirdspain.net/home.htm

Iberian Nature http://www.iberianature.com/

Spanish Nature http://www.ecomallbiz.com/easy47/home/

SPECIES LIST

BIRDS 80 species

44. Little Grebe

70. Mediterranean Shearwater

20. Cattle Egret

79. Purple Heron

73. White Stork

76. Spoonbill

31. Greater Flamingo

19. Mallard

45. Shoveler

26. Griffon Vulture

63. Short-toed Eagle

50. Montagu's Harrier

66. Sparrowhawk

72. Common Buzzard

69. Booted Eagle

53. Lesser Kestrel

23. Common Kestrel

56. Peregrine

80. Pheasant (Cat C)

38. Moorhen

35. Black-winged Stilt

37. Avocet

77. Collared Pratincole

43. Kentish Plover

36. Lapwing

40. Redshank

41. Common Sandpiper

14. Black-headed Gull

 7. Yellow-legged Gull

34. Gull-billed Tern

 6. Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon)

52. Woodpigeon

 2. Collared Dove

47. Turtle Dove

39. Monk Parakeet

48. Little Owl

71. Red-necked Nightjar

12. Common Swift

 5. Pallid Swift

11. Alpine Swift

74. White-rumped Swift

30. Bee-eater

49. Hoopoe

59. Green Woodpecker (Heard only)

24. Crested Lark

54. Crag Martin

 9. Swallow

29. Red-rumped Swallow

 4. House Martin

42. Spanish (Yellow) Wagtail

15. White Wagtail

67. Wren

18. Robin

61. Black Redstart

33. Stonechat

60. Black-eared Wheatear

28. Black Wheatear

63. Rock Thrush

64. Blue Rock Thrush

 3. Blackbird

75. Fan-tailed Warbler

78. Reed Warbler (Heard only)

22. Melodious Warbler

46. Dartford Warbler

16. Sardinian Warbler

51. Blackcap

58. Firecrest

13. Spotted Flycatcher

65. Coal Tit

67. Blue Tit

66. Great Tit

32. Southern Grey Shrike

65. Woodchat Shrike

55. Magpie

27. Red-billed Chough

62. Raven

10. Spotless Starling

 1. House Sparrow

64. Rock Sparrow

57. Chaffinch

21. Serin

17. Greenfinch

 8. Goldfinch

62. Linnet

68. Cirl Bunting

25. Corn Bunting

MAMMALS 4 species

Rabbit

Red Squirrel

Brown Rat

Pipistrelle ?

REPTILES & AMPHIBIANS 5 species

European Pond Terrapin

Large Psammodromus

Turkish Gecko

Common Wall Lizard

Iberian Marsh Frog

BUTTERFLIES & MOTHS 15+/2 species

Large White

Scarce Swallowtail

Small White

Small Blue

False Ilex Hairstreak

Meadow Brown

Bath White

Clouded Yellow

Cleopatra

Wall Brown

Holly Blue

Adonis Blue

Swallowtail

Painted Lady

Small Heath

Striped Grayling

+ 2 unidentified Blue species & a Skipper sp.

Hummingbird Hawk Moth

Striped Hawk Moth

OTHER INSECTS

Carpenter Bee

Golden-ringed Dragonfly

Southern Skimmer

+ Several unidentified Dragonflies and Damselflies