Visit to North Spain April 30^th 1999

by Dave Pearce

We were met at Barcelona airport by Josele Saiz of Boletas Birdwatching Centre and Jon (24 years old ).  First problem was we had a minivan, Josele’s jeep and Jon’s car.  Apparently Josele had expected one of us to drive the minivan!  Only Vic had a licence with him so he had to drive.  However, he chose to drive Jon’s car and Jon drove the minivan.  Fortunately Jon drove at a sensible speed despite much birdwatching and reading of maps as he went along.  I went with Vic following Jon who we never lost. 

We first stopped at Siurana Reservoir (near Cornudella de Montsant, off the C242 from Reus), and we had a brief view of Red-rumped Swallows (breeding on an island).  No Bonelli’s Eagle although this was a possibility.  

A two year old Golden Eagle ( white patches on wings and white under and on top of tail) flew over.  Also a few Shoveler, Mallard, Black-winged Stilt and Little Egret.  Also seen nearby were Bee-eaters, Sardinian Warbler, Crag Martin, Raven, Siskin, Kestrel and Alpine Swifts. 

We arrived at Hotel Miami at San Carlos de la Rapita just by the Ebro Delta for two nights.  I rang Gill to send my licence to Alquezar as Vic was not keen to drive the whole way.   

We motored along the south bank of the Ebro river.  Astonishingly, the delta is more than 20 km long and at least this wide.  There were many thousands of small paddy fields in all directions, some containing water, some with mud and some dry.  We stopped by an observation tower and had great views of several Little Bitterns flying and perching on reeds. Also many Greater Flamingos and good views of a Purple Gallinule.  These have recently become a breeding bird here – now about ten pairs in the region.  When first seen it was facing away and showed white ventral region.  When it turned the massive red bill was apparent and it was large, especially when flying and appeared blackish with a blue hue. 

We went on towards the sea where there were many Audouin’s Gulls (large red bill with black band, elegant at rest). Also many Slender-billed Gulls (long drooping red bill, little black on wing with whiter area towards end of upper wing, and some had a glorious pink hue on the breast). 

Also there were many terns.  Whiskered Terns were most common, a few White-winged Black Terns (showing the white rump, perhaps the best looking tern), a few Caspian Terns (much larger with heavy red bill), Gull-billed Terns and Sandwich Terns (difficult to separate these, but the Gull-billed had a shorter black bill). Also Little and Common and one or two Black Terns.  Eight different species of terns were present.  Very nice! 

There were many Black-winged Stilts, Avocets, Little Stints, Wood Sandpipers, Redshanks and a single Green Sandpiper.  Also several Marsh Harriers. Many Cattle Egrets were in summer plumage (stout yellow bill, buff on breast and mantle).  Also a few Squacco Herons (in summer plumage, mainly tawny buff with dark stout bill, very white when flying) and many Little Egrets.  There were a few Grey Herons and many Purple Herons.  The most common duck were Red-crested Pochards. Blue-headed Yellow Wagtails and many Fan-tailed Warblers were around.  We had a picnic by the sea and had a great view of a Roller on the wires and flying.  Several Collared Pratincoles (white rump, forked tail, pointed wings) were flying around.  They breed here on the drier heath areas.  Many Crested Larks, Skylarks, Lesser Short-toed Larks were singing and a single male Common Redstart was seen. 

We saw about 200 Ruff with Curlew Sandpipers in summer plumage and some Little Stints in a field just before we crossed the river on a car ferry.  We went on to the ringing station where there were Tree Sparrows, Fan-tailed Warblers, Reed and Great Reed Warblers. 

In the evening we drove inland see Red-necked Nightjars.  One was on the road and we approached it slowly with the car headlights on to within three yards.   

We went back to the marsh and stopped at the observatory again and then on to a large hide nearby.  We had very good views of a Little Bittern, Wood Sandpipers and Squacco Herons under overcast skies.  

Later in the morning we drove inland along the N232 and had a picnic at the top of a pass and our first view of a Griffon Vulture (pale buff forewing and dark after wing, distinctive wavy wing profile, short tail).  At this time we were all excited but did not know then that we would see a thousand more – each one to be checked that it was not an eagle or Lammergeier!  Also Ravens were seen and many Corn Buntings were singing. 

We visited a large lake (E de la Estanca near Alcaniz) where there were many Black Terns and a few White Wagtails.  Two Short-toed Eagles flew by with uniformly light coloured underwing and often hovering. Also several Black Kites flew by as we approached Hotel Rioja at Quinto. 

Day 4 

We were up at 5 a.m. and drove to Codo near Belchite in the dark to a reserve to look for Dupont’s Lark – about 400 pairs here.  There were many Short-toed and Crested Larks and a few Calandra Larks.  Also possibly a few Thekla Larks but Jon said then if it perches in a bush then possibly Thekla, if on the ground then Crested otherwise very tricky!  As it got lighter we could see in the distance seven Griffon Vultures huddled together and eventually they rose and soared upwards.  Several Black Kites flew by and a juvenile Golden Eagle (white on wings and tail), an Osprey, a Hobby and a Marsh Harrier.  There were several Northern Wheatears and Black-eared Wheatears, Tawny Pipits and Choughs. 

We could hear the Dupont’s Larks - a nasal "choo chee".  Although we surrounded them it was impossible to see them clearly.  This was despite a third of the ground being bare earth.  Apparently they run fast keeping the tufts of grass between you and them.  I only glimpsed them twice and never saw the down-curved bill.  We went back to the hotel for breakfast at 9:30am and then returned for another go, but again did not manage a good view.  Interestingly, we were told they did not call after 11 a.m. and were best at dawn.  However, there were many calling when we left at 1:30 p.m.   

We had a picnic in fields off the A1307 from Belchite where there were many Calandra Larks with large, dark, bat-like wings.  Also some Short-toed Larks which were difficult to separate from Lesser. Red-legged Partridges, Turtle Doves, Quail and Corn Buntings were calling. 

We stopped at a river site near Escatron where there were about thirty Yellow Wagtails and a Golden Oriole was heard.  Also seen were Buzzard, Hobby, Sparrowhawk Peregrine, Serins, Bee-eaters, Cetti’s and Fan-tailed Warblers, Nightingales singing and a White Stork flew by.  Two Alpine Swifts, Crag Martins flew by and a Quail was heard.  

We went slowly along the A2105 looking for Little and Great Bustards and Sandgrouse.  We heard some Pin-tail Sandgrouse and turned down a track to some ruined farmyard buildings where there were several Little Owls and male and female Lesser Kestrels together (no moustache stripe and male had unspotted chestnut mantle).  Two female Montagu’s Harriers flew by and then about 20 Pin-tailed Sandgrouse calling "kata kata", flying very fast in formation.  As they came close and turned, they showed their white belly and I could see the rufous throat.  No Bustards were seen although we found out later there were four Great Bustards here the following day. 

Eventually we arrived rather late at a small quaint village up in the mountains - Alquezar.  A posh hotel but a bit smelly since the goats and sheep were driven through the narrow cobbled street to be put to bed for the night. 

Day 5 

Before breakfast, we watched about forty Griffon Vultures and two Egyptian Vultures (smaller, white fore wing and black rear wing with wings held level or drooping and a wedge shaped tail) gradually rise from the valley floor, with each bird peeling away in a different direction.   Black Redstarts were singing. 

Later we walked down to the valley floor, forded a stream twice with bare feet (agony) and returned up the far side of the massive rock upon which the castle stood.  Saw a Blue Rock Thrush, many Crag Martins and heard (wheezy "chewee") a Rock Sparrow but could not see it. 

Lunch was a picnic in the sun on the terrace when my licence arrived.  It cost £3.20, sent on Saturday morning and arrived Tuesday lunchtime in the mountains which is not bad since Monday was a holiday in England.  Now Vic and I will take it in turns to drive.  

We drove to a reservoir in the mountains, E de Vadiello (Guara), where many Griffon Vultures nest on a cliff face.  Then we saw an adult Lammergeier sitting on the cliff face with a buff orange breast.  Another adult came by and they both glided out of sight (long diamond shaped tail).  Flying against the cliff face one could not appreciate how big they are.  There are only 140 birds in the Pyrenees, often two males with each female.  They rarely soar in circles but travel over great distances looking for bones which they drop onto rocks at a few favorite sites to extract the marrow.  

Also seen on the way were Alpine Swifts, Bee-eaters, Hoopoes, Golden Oriole heard, Crag Martins, Woodchat and Red-backed Shrikes, Nightingales everywhere, Black Redstarts, Stonechats, Grasshopper Warblers (heard), Blue Rock Thrushes and Choughs.  Only Spotless Starlings are here – as we go north, eventually, only Common. 

Then we drove back to Alquezar. 

Day 6 

We traveled to Bolitas (Loporzano near Huesca) for coffee and had good views of Spotless Starlings and a Melodious Warbler (very yellow below and brownish green above).  Also many Red Kites and a few Black Kites, Griffon and Egyptian Vultures. 

We had a picnic on a mountain top (Riglos) where there were Stonechats, Dartford Warblers, Chough, with many Griffon Vultures breeding.  I had a good view of a Rock Bunting (three black stripes on head on grey head, rusty brown body). 

We motored on to a Monastry, San Juan de la Pena (a ruin), where we heard Firecrests and Goldcrests.  A male and juvenile Citril Finch (call like a creaking swing – yellowish breast and greenish mantle with yellow and black in wings but uniform grey nape sides of head and flanks) fed on the ground nearby.  Also Nuthatch, Jay, Short-toed Treecreeper (short repeated song of a few notes), male and female Black Redstart and a flock of Crossbills.  

We walked to a high point with trees below (hoping for Black Woodpeckers), but only had a Sparrowhawk, Kestrels and a female Hen Harrier flying high.  Also Rock Doves (I wonder whether pure though) and a good view of a Nightingale. 

Onwards up the Valle de Hecho to a Hotel Uson (solar powered electricity) set in fields above Siresa. I had a good view in the hotel grounds of a Subalpine Warbler and a male and female Cirl Bunting on some wires. 

Day 7 

We went up the valley and through a narrow gorge with high rock faces on both sides to look for Wallcreepers.  None were found and it was suggested we were a week too early. 

Higher up there were many Water Pipits but no males with pink breasts and vivid white eyestripe as in Slovakia and on the English east coast.  Apparently, breeding Water Pipits in the Pyrenees often have yellowish and slightly streaked bellies.  They sang from trees with a song very like a Tree Pipit (to my ears). 

We walked on up the valley looking for Alpine Accentors but none were found.  There were many nests of Griffon Vultures in the cliffs and several Black Redstarts among the rocks.  Also about fifty Chamois – many with young - were sighted.  Since they introduced restrictions on shooting these have been doing very well.  Also good views of a Marmot – possibly bigger than a Rabbit and flat like a Beaver, lying in the sun on a rock.  These were introduced to the French mountains and are spreading very fast.  There was a concern that they may displace the native Brown Hares but they have never been plentiful.  However, perhaps plenty more food for eagles. 

A Lammergeier flew close by below us.  It was a juvenile – black head and white on upper wing with light brown on belly rather than white/orange and shorter tail (it takes 5/6 years to acquire adult plumage).  It was mobbed by a Chough which looked very small beside it. I had close views of male a Rock Bunting on the way back and there were many Crag Martins and House Martins nesting on a cliff face.  Good views of a Short-toed Treecreeper with its repeated song and two Common Sandpipers by a fast running stream.  A Green Woodpecker was heard and more Firecrests, Marsh Tits, Yellowhammers and Choughs.  There were many Blackcaps around the hotel in Hecho valley. 

Day 8 

I had super views of a pair of Citril Finches in the hotel grounds and also a Sparrowhawk and Long Tailed Tits. A juvenile Lammergeier circled above the hotel many times with its long diamond tail, darkish underparts including head and some white on wing all showing well. 

On the way to the next place we stopped to see many Griffon Vultures (also Red Kites) drying out in tops of trees, including one that was holding wings out like a Cormorant.  We also had good views of a Woodchat Shrike, Cirl Bunting, a pair of Stonechats, Common Whitethroat and Siskin.   Many Kestrels, Black Kites, Red Kites and Black Redstarts were seen on the way. 

We drove, then walked up Valle de Ordesa, but unfortunately it was raining and the superb scenery was only glimpsed.  However, we had good views of Rock Bunting, Dipper, Jay, and a Green Woodpecker called. 

Finally we arrived at a fairly basic Hotel (Casa Carpintera) at Escalona.  There were Nightingales everywhere (as there have been in most places) singing throughout the day.  Also Blackcaps, Dippers, Grey Wagtails and Common Sandpipers. 

Day  9 

In the morning we drove to the Valle de Pineta.  Unfortunately we had to scramble up a steep scree and most members of the party could not make it.  A pity since we found out later that the proper path was fairly straightforward.  We reached the top and stretching away into the distance was a flat alpine meadow with steep mountain sides. 

Here there were many Water Pipits, Crag Martins, a Yellowhammer, a Cuckoo and two Mistle Thrushes and a dozen Red-billed Choughs. 

Then in the distance, high up, but they eventually came very close were two hundred and fifty Yellow-billed (Alpine) Choughs.  Very different call from the Red-billed - a musical "chirrish" chirping call.  Apparently, in the winter (and presumably the spring) large flocks are not unusual. A juvenile Golden Eagle (white on wing and rump) flew overhead. Suddenly an adult Lammergeier wheeled around high up and eventually came down very close to us.  It kept circling around a particularly spot in some sparse conifers showing off its orange belly.  It appeared to go very slowly, almost at stalling speed, but this is probably an illusion due to its large size (25% bigger than Golden Eagle).   Then it took off again and circled round again.  Twice it landed and in the scope I could see shaggy orange head feathers (lion like mane) and black band through eye.  Finally it was mobbed by Ravens and took off with some carrion which it then dropped.  Jon said that although he had had closer brief views he had never had such a prolonged (30 minutes) close view.  Saw it again twice overhead and distant. 

In the valley below there were Northern Wheatears and a Citril Finch.  

Near to the hotel we drove up a canyon and saw Black Kites, Egyptian and Griffon Vultures and a Short-toed Eagle. 

Between Escalona and Ainsa we watched a pair of Booted Eagles.  We first saw one flying in front of trees and noticed the wings light and dark.  Clearly they were preparing to roost in the trees (or nesting).  One would land and the other swooped down several times.  Mostly they flew with distinctive drooping wings with intermittent flaps.  The pair interacted several times, twisting and turning on their sides. 

Day 10 

There were many Kites and Vultures on the way and some Harriers.  Near to Balaguer, we cruised down tracks between Penelles/Bellmunt/Montgai/La Sentiu de Sio through rolling agricultural landscape.  There were small ridges from which could see into the distance for Little Bustards which breed here. 

Super views of several pairs of Montagu’s Harriers, swooping effortless (very graceful and agile) over the fields.  Also Whinchats and a glimpse of a Stone Curlew.  Then a male Little Bustard flew up from side of road then down into a field.  There was significant white on the wing and I could see the black chest.  We had a picnic and then flushed it with a pincer movement.  Saw it well through the scope and it appeared very white, not unlike a Shelduck, with quick and curtailed wing beats. Many Quail were heard and two flew up appearing small, plump and blunt nosed. 

On the way to the airport someone commented that it was a pity we had failed to see Black Wheatears in the mountains.  Right said Jon, we will go to Garraf, north of Sitges on the coast where there is a large cliff.  Apparently there is an isolated population here (several pairs) and we saw a male and female within a few minutes.  The male is a smart bird, very black and white, the female is dark brown.  I felt somewhat cheated at seeing them so easily.  Also a Blue Rock Thrush here and Peregrine and only twenty minutes from Barcelona.  All the swifts here are Pallid Swifts (browner, lighter towards trailing edge and the slightly broader and blunted wings were noticeable).  

An excellent visit and surely I will be back some day.

Summary 

170 species  (19 raptors, 8 terns) 

Vultures

Lammergeier – 3 adults and 2 juvs

Egyptian – about 10 pairs (often in pairs)

Griffon – thousands 

Eagles

Booted – 1 pair

Golden – 0 adults 3 juvs  

Short-toed Eagle – 3 possibly more

Harriers

Montagu’s – 2 female plus several pairs

Hen – 1 female

Marsh – several male & female 

Kites

Red – many

Black – many 

Hawks

Sparrowhawk – 3

Goshawk – 0  

Buzzards

Common – 1 possibly more 

Falcons

Peregrine – 1 possibly more

Hobby – 2

Kestrel – many

Lesser Kestrel – about 4 male and female 

Osprey – 1