South East Spain 11th-18th December 2006

by Pam and Frank Bryant

Were you engrossed in the world cup over the summer? I (Pam) was busy looking for flights. For the duration that England were in the competition BMI baby had some great deals on. Birmingham to Malaga with excellent flights times £58.00 including taxes for two people! Would there be enough to interest us on a winter break? We had to give it a go! I then booked an apartment for the week at Acequias, a small Andalucian village just south of Granada. Car hire was then booked with www.malagacar.com

Monday 11th December 

We arrived in Malaga at 2pm after a smooth flight. The car hire rep, waiting for us at the airport took us to the nearby depot to collect the car, a Seat Cordoba. We made our way east stopping at a shopping centre at Rincon de la Victoria on the way for a much needed drink and look around the shops. By the time we arrived at Acequias it was getting dark, 6:20pm and on getting out of the car felt a chill in the air but the sky was clear. The church tower lit up and one bright Christmas decoration across the street gave the place a cheerful glow as we walked around the village before an early night.

Tuesday 12th December

Cloudy and cold for most of the day. The fridge needed to be stocked so a quick trip into the supermercado in the nearby town of Durcal, then a walk to another village Niguelas via the edge of the Sierra Nevada route taking us through olive and almond groves. Flocks of Serins and Chaffinches were feeding on the ground amongst the trees. Further along the path a bird flew from the bushes flicking its tail as it landed on a rock bordering the path. A female Black Redstart (pic below) which then conveniently flew to a branch backed by the skyline enabled us a really good view. A Sardinian Warbler was briefly seen characteristically trying to hide in the bushes. As the path meandered towards the village the rock face of the sierra was directly in front of us. A Blue Rock Thrush was heard and then seen. On the edge of the village after a picnic lunch a male Black Redstart was seen with more females on our return walk. Many Spotless Starlings were also seen.

Wednesday 13th December 

Sunny clear sky but cold. An early rise to visit the Alhambra in Granada, on a previous visit several years ago we were unable to get in due to the maximum number of visitors being allocated. So 8:20am we were finally entering these magnificent grounds. The wildlife was evident to us as well as the inspirational buildings, several Serins in the pine trees adjacent to the path, Crag Martins on the ledges of the palace wall, two Squirrels busy eating nuts from an almond tree and Blackbirds feasting on the berries of the cotoneaster bushes. Also seen were Blackcaps, Blue Tits, Great Tits, House Sparrow and Magpie. We walked into the city for lunch, many of the trees had turned to glorious autumn shades and shone in the sunlight. An afternoon drive into the Sierra Nevada brought more delights with the air clear and the sky bright blue. Coal Tits were viewed feeding from the pine trees on our first stop, some snow bordered the road. The second stop gave great views of the Pico Valeta (pic below), snow clad with skiers descending from the slopes. Bordering the left side of the road several sheer cliffs stood proud from the vegetated lower slopes. Four Ring Ouzels were spotted against the skyline and nearby, two Mistle Thrushes. We made our way to the upper regions at 2500m, and walked to the military zone from the lower car park. Two Alpine Accentors (pic below) were soon seen a few feet away. As we walked higher up the air was really chilled as the sun went down so we returned to base.

Thursday 14th December 

Sunny, clear, cold early. It was decided to visit the Sierra Nevada again but first we had to scrape the ice off the car windows! White Wagtails, Chaffinches and Goldfinches were scouring the frost clad fields as we made our way towards the motorway from the village. From the motorway about 100 Little Egrets were seen flying south. The Sierra Nevada (pic below) afforded superb weather, no cold wind as we had late yesterday but clear blue sky with plenty of sun. Don't get me wrong we still needed fleeces on! More Coal Tits were seen on the pine trees around the lower slopes and two Mistle Thrushes. As we scanned the mountain tops ten Chamois (pic below) were spotted, looking to see what we were up to. We decided to walk up the path behind the University hostel, what some good views, we could see for miles over this undulating landscape. Anyone not climbing up there was sadly missing out on the incredible colours and textures of the rocks, lichen and snow with icicles falling from some steep rocks. Four Alpine Accentors were very friendly hopping around the cars parked by the military zone.

Friday 15th December 

Clear and sunny am, cloudy pm. Two Chiffchaffs were in the garden outside of our apartment before breakfast. We decided to go south, then west today and take the roads around the Alpujarra mountain range. The roads were very winding so the trip took longer than we thought but the scenery was spectacular in places with glorious autumn colours of the trees. The town of Trevelez was reached and we played the tourist by gazing in the shops many famous for the local ham and rugs of every colour. Birds of note seen on the way were Thekla Lark and Stonechat. As we left the town a Kestrel glided gracefully over the lower slopes. On the return route we saw Crag Martins, Greenfinches, Goldfinches, two Jays and several more sightings of Kestrels.

Saturday 16th December 

Clear and sunny but cold to start and end the day. Today we would take to the south east steppe area east of Granada and north of Guadix. Once again we saw Little Egrets flying south from the motorway, about 200 this time. We took a circular route around the steppe area. Driving north up the west side towards Villanueva de las Torres some tall rocks bordered the road, many Jackdaws were swirling through the skies and landing on the rocks. As we got out of the car we could here a partridge calling. Indeed high and right on the edge of a rock was a Red-legged Partridge, it was great to see it from this perspective, the detail of the markings evident. It called out as it moved over the rocks, on the other rock was another partridge but this one was silent. Some areas were planted with trees, I'm not sure what they were but they were striking, very narrow and upright, all planted close together. A little way up the road a Buzzard was perched on one of them but as we approached it flew off. ( I think it was a mistake having a diesel car, it was so noisy.) There were many fields of cereal crops, a haven for flocks of Greenfinches, Meadow Pipits, Goldfinches and also in the area Collared Doves and Black Redstarts. Continuing up the road was a bridge with a small wet area adjacent, a Moorhen quickly flew into the reeds. We were just going to leave when the distinctive call of a Cetti's Warbler made us turn back, it came very close. Frank went to get the camera from the car, I had a fantastic view but it disappeared by the time he got back. A Wren also came very close. Some of the northern area had deep ravines resembling the Grand Canyon on a small scale. Just before we turned to go south Black Vulture and Griffon Vulture were watched for some time, the clear skies enabling good views. Then the landscape changed to steppe, flat grassy areas, then ploughed areas with interspersed orchard and stony semi-desert areas. It was here that we were hoping to see Little Bustard and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse but on this occasion it wasn't to be. We were lucky to see Calandra Larks and Crested Larks. From the road going south towards Quadix a Southern Grey Shrike was perched high on a branch. Further on some electric cables were the resting place for about fifty Rock Sparrows and some Spotless Starlings, then a Corn Bunting was seen in a tree right by the road. Just before the main road was a finca, (farm) and on the old wall was a Little Owl which flew off when the camera came out. We called into the town of Guadix to do a bit of shopping as the shops would be closed tomorrow being Sunday.

Sunday 17th December

Chilly start then clear skies sunny and warm. Today we concentrated on the landscape near the apartment and generally relax. We parked in the small town of Lecrin (pic below) surrounded by mountains and walked to the village of Chite nearby. The views offered field after field of oranges and lemons carpeting the valley floor, they benefited from channels of water from the mountains irrigating the land. The landscape in the distance was changing though, many new roads and bridges were being built and wind turbines broke up the skyline view. Birds seen on the walk were Sardinian Warbler, Serin, Collared Dove, Blackbird, Robin, Goldfinch and Black Redstart. A walk from our apartment towards the Sierra Nevada was taken in the afternoon but it was marred by two men shooting, hence it was very quiet bird wise, just a Kestrel scanning the higher slopes of the mountain. There was plenty of vegetation to admire, herbs Rosemary and Marjoram were in flower attracting bees together with a few Gorse flowers. Lavender was not so common and I saw one plant of Helianthemum (rock rose) with a white flower. There was a concentration of two species of butterflies in one area, a pity I didn't have an ID book with us. They were very rapid and flighty, not staying on a plant for any length of time. The deep yellow ones could have been Clouded Yellows and maybe the white ones with black markings Bath Whites but I'm not sure at all. It was good to see them though, if anyone has any ideas of ID I'd be grateful of some help!

Monday 18th December

Chilly start with clear skies then sunny and warm. An early sighting of Chiffchaff in the garden We left the accommodation about 9am to take a leisurely drive back to Malaga airport with a few stops on the way. On transit the only new bird we saw for the holiday were Woodpigeons! After dropping the car off at the hire depot they took us to the airport for our flight at 3pm, everything went very smoothly. We landed at Birmingham airport at 5pm and were home by 7:30pm

Summary

So was it worth going? You bet! Spain is a great place for a self catering holiday. Fresh local produce can be bought from the supermarkets and markets eg. A kilo of fresh vine tomatoes and green beans each cost 60p. In winter it gets dark at about 6:30pm so the evenings are spent cooking simple menus, writing up bird lists and planning the next days' trip. Well who wants to sit in a stuffy smoke filled Spanish bar! Although the species total is quite small (46 species) it was great to have a change of scenery, some sunny weather as well as a few different birds, insects and vegetation to look at….and as I write this with thick fog outside I wish I was there now.