Southern Spain 18th-26th January 2007

By Pam and Frank Bryant

Day 1

As we waited for our flight Frank suddenly put his head in his hands saying, Oh no I didn’t pick up the bins! So was this going to be hard work birding with no binoculars, just a small travel scope? Then he realised he’d got a penknife in his pocket and had to dash back to check-in  so that it would go in the case and not have it confiscated. So two things had gone wrong was this to be a disaster holiday!

We left Birmingham airport in strong gales and rain. The flight was very bumpy until we climbed above the clouds then it was very smooth, we arrived at Malaga on time at 2pm but the wheel had been broken off the case. Three things had gone wrong so now we would relax, enjoy and hope that all the disasters were over.

The car, a Ford Focus (thankfully a petrol version, the one we had in December was diesel and scared the birds off as we approached) was soon collected and we were on our way north in sunny warm weather.

Our home for the next eight nights was in spectacular surroundings overlooking a valley with hills in the distance, and only a few houses in view scattered across the landscape. After a  brief 'settling in' with a welcome cuppa it was time to go exploring  on foot and were pleased to find a Sardinian Warbler, a Kestrel, several Black Redstarts and Blackbirds many Goldfinches, Linnets, Chaffinches, Spotless Starlings, House Sparrows  and White Wagtails. After explaining to our hosts (our accommodation was attached to the side of their house) about the lack of binoculars they kindly lent us a pair of theirs.

Day 2

We decided to drive north and visit Laguna Fuente de Piedra via El Torcal. Just after leaving the accommodation at 9:15am two Red-legged Partridges ran across the road in front of us, the other birds seen before the main road were  much the same as yesterday. As we skirted the base of the limestone cliffs of El Torcal a Griffon Vulture flew over showing up well against the perfect blue sky.

From the viewpoint at Piedra overlooking the lake it was very apparent the lack of water (there had been no winter rains) but there was a large flock of gulls on the water, mostly Lesser Black-backed Gulls with a few Black-headed Gulls. In the distance there were about 200 Greater Flamingos only visible through the telescope. The binoculars had such a narrow field of view and were of poor quality sometimes it was better to see with the naked eye! Around the edge of the lake were Mallard, Greylag and Lapwing, then something caught my eye flying into a tree in the foreground it was a Southern Grey Shrike. We walked along the dry mud path towards the south of the lake it was bordered by a ploughed area where Crested Larks and Meadow Pipits were seen. Then a Hoopoe flew from the edge of the path into some olive groves further on. After a look around the exhibition in the information centre we went to the hide overlooking a pool. Here were many Shovelers, Little Grebe, Moorhen, Coot and 23 Black-winged Stilts. A Green Sandpiper was feeding around the margins. We took the road around the lake but little else was seen except very close views of three Black-winged Stilts in very smelly water, we quickly moved on! A Red Admiral and possible Clouded Yellow were also seen.

Some food shopping was done in the town of Antequera on the way back.

The sky at night was full of stars, no light pollution around here, but luckily the silence was broken, a Little owl was calling.

Day 3

Today we decided to travel south to the Desembocadura au Guadalhorce Reserve near Malaga Airport. After parking the car we walked towards the beach enjoying the fine sunny weather and stopping to admire a few Stonechats on the bank above us. There were hundreds of gulls on the sea to look at but we decided to turn left here for the area of scrub and lakes behind the sea.

Crested Larks and a Skylark took to the air as we walked through the reserve the latter calling as it ascended. Many wild flowers carpeted the ground. Soon a Hen Harrier flew across in front of us. I found one patch of wild narcissus, they looked irridescent in the bright sunlight.

We came to an area of several small ponds, Cetti's Warblers were singing and many Chiffchaffs were flitting between the shrub branches. Ahead of us were several dead trees, an Osprey flew towards them but we noticed other birds on the branches. A closer inspection, they were Bonelli's Eagles (see pic 1 below). We thought it was a  birder walking quickly towards us, but it was the warden, he sounded very cross although we couldn’t understand what he was saying. Then he spoke in broken English, we had somehow wandered into a forbidden part of the reserve, he ushered us to the public pathway. We got talking and he took us to a lake where we had good views of a Penduline Tit. One Terrapin was  basking on a rock protruding out of the water. The warden explained that this was a good place to see Bluethroat, one bird that we knew we should see around here in winter. After a long wait no luck so we moved on overlooking another lake being joined by several other local birders. We soon spotted a Bluethroat (see pic 2 below), it was very shy, the birders were quite noisy so we went back to the car for lunch and then returned later, luckily we had very good views from the elevated bank. Other birds seen from this spot were five Greater Flamingos, Little Grebes, Teal, Pochard, White-headed Duck, Redshank, Greenshank, Cormorants, Grey Herons, Little Egrets and a Kingfisher. As we make our way back towards the beach many Goldfinches, a Common Sandpiper, a Zitting Cisticola (Fan-tailed Warbler) and two Collared Doves  were seen, on the edge of a small water inlet just behind the beach was a Sanderling with a damaged leg (see pic 3 below). A Gannet was flying low over the sea as we returned to the car.

Day 4

Our first sighting at 7:50am today was from inside the  doorway of our accommodation, looking into a tree in the garden was a Hoopoe. Today we decided to take a circular walk from our accommodation, recommended by our hosts. Walking down into the valley Goldfinches, Blackbirds and Great Tits were seen and heard. Crossing a dry river bed there were many wild irises on the bank opposite completely at home in this dry, sunny environment (see pic below). Ascending the side of the  hill, farmland bordered the path, birds were singing, they were Corn Buntings, it was a joy to hear them in winter! Also seen in the area were Sardinian Warblers, a Blackcap and a Southern Grey Shrike.  There were many almond trees in full blossom, we admired some of these delicate flowers overlapping the path. In places were  uninterrupted views towards El Torcal with the backdrop of a clear blue sky, it was magic.

Day 5

Montes de Malaga was our destination today. It was very surprising to us being in such close proximity to Malaga, a large forested area with varying undulations in the landscape. On leaving the car by the museum, hmm the fresh smell of pine trees and the sound of a Great Spotted Woodpecker drumming. The air was clear, were we really so near to the brash resorts of the Med.

We took a short loop walk from the picnic site and at first saw some common birds, Coal Tits, Chaffinches, Blackbirds, Blue Tits and Great Tits.  Moving on, two new species were very close, a Crested Tit and a Short-toed Treecreeper. Before reaching the car we also saw three Bullfinches, a Nuthatch and several Long-tailed Tits. (We went here on a Monday and were the only people around but apparently it gets very busy and noisy on the weekends. The spillages over the litter bins confirmed this! ) Taking another road into the forest, this time towards Hotel Humaina for coffee. Just after turning into the road, a bird was on the electricity overhead cables, a male Crossbill which quickly flew off only to be replaced by two females. We stopped at the viewpoint just before the hotel, the dominant birds here were Crossbills, one very close to us on the path, several in the pine trees and six drinking from a small water reservoir below us. This was really exciting we’d never seen Crossbills so close (see pic below). Also here were Crag Martins, Chaffinches and Great Tits. A walk by the hotel added Goldcrest and Blackcap but it started to rain quite heavily so at 4pm we call it a day and go back to our accommodation having enjoyed a great day out.

Day 6 

The day started cloudy which soon burnt off to reveal a fine sunny day. In the morning we drove through the breathtaking scenery of El Torcal with its famous rock formations (see pic 1 below) . Driving to high altitudes the shrubs and grasses were encrusted with thick frost which looked great against the blue sky. What we weren’t quite ready for was the freezing wind as we got out of the car at the car park. We thought that there was an information building here but it was still under construction so no cup of coffee to warm us up! We started on one of the walks shown on the notice board, but we didn’t last long some pathways were overgrown with brambles and other exposed areas were icy so we went back to the accommodation. On the way a Sparrowhawk flew over the road.

With warmer conditions in the sheltered area outside our cottage we ate our lunch outside.

The afternoon was spent driving around the ‘local patch’, Almogia (see pic 2 below) and a few reservoirs. Griffon Vulture, Southern Grey Shrike (see pic 3 below) and Crag Martins were birds of note.

Day 7

Today we went to Rio Velez via the motorway, situated east of Malaga and on the western fringe of Torre del Mar. As we parked the car and walked towards the river two bright yellow birds caught our eye, two Serins, very close, in fact really too close for binoculars! When we were at the river edge and looking back towards the bridge loads of Crag Martins, one Swallow and one House Martin were watched for several minutes. Chiffchaffs were numerous, some landing on the vegetation in the river very close to us, a Cetti's Warbler was heard. A walk towards the estuary proved productive, many White Wagtails, two Yellow Wagtails, a male and female Bluethroat, Moorhens, Coots and three Black-winged Stilts.  Meadow Pipits were observed on the opposite bank of the river. The estuary was home to a mixed flock of gulls, Mediterranean Gulls, Lesser Black-backed Gulls, and Black-headed Gulls, The sandy margins were the feeding ground to four Kentish Plovers, two Ringed Plovers, 14 Dunlin and several Sanderlings and Little Stint. The day had started cloudy but as we reached the sea the sun appeared and our fleeces had to be carried! Scanning the seascape produced two Razorbills, two Gannets, four Cormorants and again plenty of mixed gull species. As we turned to go back the reeds by us suddenly erupted with the distinct sound of another Cetti's Warbler. It was so near and briefly came to rest on top of the reeds, our best ever view of this bird. The return walk rewarded us with several Curlew Sandpipers, a Common Sandpiper, a Robin and very close views of a male Bluethroat (see pic below), the female was very secretive, showing herself briefly under the shade of the reeds. One tree was alive with bird song, a flock of Serins, although they were difficult to see amongst the leaves it was a pleasure to stand under the tree and just listen. 

The route back to the cottage was taken via the northern road from Torre del Mar, the scenery was spectacular, the roads virtually empty of traffic a great end to a good days birding.

Day 8

Our last full day for this holiday and we decided to visit the  El Chorro area, a vast mountainous area north west of Malaga. On the way, skirting the base of El Torcal  we spotted a Blue Rock Thrush conveniently perched on a nearby old building. The weather had certainly changed, very wintry; cloudy with a cold wind.

Walking near the gorge area at El Chorro, a Grey Heron flew low over the water. We parked near the spectacular railway bridge, just out of town and walk towards the Chorro Gorge where the Rio Guadalhorce flows for nearly 3 kms through a narrow 100m deep chasm between Sierra de la Pizarra and the Sierra de Huma. A Griffon Vulture flew over the mountain side. Whilst having lunch in the car we saw at least eleven Griffon vultures and one Black Vulture. In the bushes under the bridge, Sardinian Warblers, Serins and Goldfinches were observed. The sun briefly came out brightening the landscape. Another large bird flies over the mountain, it’s not a vulture, looks like it has a forked tail. Could this really be a Black Kite so early in the year? Although a bit distant Frank takes some photos. Sure enough when they are ‘zoomed in’ it was a Black Kite, was this the first sighting for the year? On leaving this area a Rock Bunting was spotted on a wall beside the road. From the viewpoint at Bobastro many Short-toed Larks and Goldfinches were busy feeding between the short grassy areas. Cormorants flew over the reservoir. We descended to lower slopes and parked by the bridge overlooking Embalse del conde de Guadalhorce. Four Great Crested Grebes were on the reservoir with Mallards on the waters’ edge. The adjacent woods were home to some lovely wild flowers, Bellis perennis (a daisy like flower 15-20cms in height) and several drifts of the White hooped petticoat daffodil (see pic below). These flowers together with the  smell of fresh pine made for a pleasant walk although we didn’t see any birds here. It started to rain getting quite heavy so we made a fast retreat back to the car. The road back to El Torcal should have been very picturesque unfortunately the driving rain made it quite unpleasant in parts. We took a short cut along the higher road via La Hoya back towards the cottage. It started to sleet, then snow should we turn back, we decided to press on. We hit a blizzard, snow was settling fast, perhaps an inch thick in a very short time. We called into a shop in La Hoya, children were excited they hadn’t seen snow for ages! As we progressed to lower slopes the snow turned to rain but on reaching the cottage we still had ice on the car bumpers.

Day 9

A beautiful clear day with blue skies. An opportunity to photograph El Torcal covered in snow. The wind though was bitter and I didn’t stay out of the car long. Just long enough to capture snow and almond blossom! All too soon it was time to depart for the airport for an afternoon flight back to Birmingham. 

Helpful info

June 2006, and as I surfed the net there were bargain flights to Malaga in January. This time £46.00 for two people so we decide to give it a go! Self catering accommodation was found near El Torcal National Park about an hours drive north of Malaga. The car was once again booked with www.malagacar.com

We used a guide book bought on departure at Malaga airport when we went in December 2006. Birdwatching on Spain’s Southern Coast (2^nd Edition) by John R Butler

An enjoyable escape from January in England to encounter a variety of habitats in warmer surroundings (apart from the last day!)   

For any other information on the holiday please e-mail pam@sensorygarden.co.uk or frank@imagedownload.co.uk we would be happy to help!