Southern Morocco 16^th - 25^th April 2004

by Dave Pearce

This trip with Naturetrek was not our first choice (which was full) for this destination.  It seemed to be significantly cheaper than other tour operators and we were suspicious we might be put in less desirable hotels.  How wrong we were!  Every hotel was the best in the area and far better than we deserved.  The leader Andy Wilson worked for the BTO, but would leave shortly after the trip for further education in America.  He was excellent and always relaxed, answered our questions and worked tirelessly behind the scenes to make this a very easy trip (his 8th to Morocco).  There were eight of us in the minivan with about four spare seats and a careful driver who never gave us any cause for concern, which was very important.  The locals were very friendly especially in the poorer south. 

Day 1 Gatwick to Marrakech

We arrived in Marrakech in the late afternoon and were taken to the Diwane Hotel.  Then the culture shock.  We took a couple of the very small taxis a mile or so to the Djemma Al Fna in the heart of the city.  The driving, with the roads being incredibly busy with cars, lorries, carts pulled by sundry animals, cyclists and people can only be described as outrageous - but we survived.  We were then amongst a throng of thousands of locals milling about with snake charmers, acrobats, fortune-tellers, musicians and other street entertainers and people selling their wares.  It was nice to see that all this noise and bustle around the souk seemed to be for the locals rather than for the few tourists present. 

Here we saw our first Little Swifts with their bat like flight.  At one place they were going in and out of a shop, which appeared to lead to a dark garage where presumably they were breeding.  They were oblivious to our presence, passing our heads within a foot!  Also seen were our first House Buntings and Common Bulbuls, which were subsequently seen virtually everyday.  Many Spotless Starlings and House Sparrows were around, plus a few White Storks, Kestrels and Blackbirds, all of which were seen on most days.  There were a few Pallid Swifts going into some thick dead vegetation hanging from a tall tree. 

Day 2 (Marrakech, over the High Atlas mountains to El-Kelaa M'Gouna, 273km) 

A couple of short stops in the foothills produced five Booted Eagles (rather variable in colouring but a square tail, pale wing and scapular patches).  Two Barbary Partridges (which stretched their necks and ran taller than our Red-legged) called and we saw our only Crossbills of the trip.  Also seen were Black Wheatears, Turtle Doves, Nightingales, Goldfinches, Wood Pigeons, Sardinian Warblers, House Martins and Swallows all of which we saw on most days.   A Blue Rock Thrush was seen and we had our first good view of the rather greenish North African race (spodiogenys) of the Chaffinch. 

A coffee stop (Vic ordered an excellent omelette to keep him going) was made at the mountain village of Taddert.  Here in a terrace garden we had super close views of a pair of Moussier's Redstarts - stunning birds.   We also had great views of the very smart ultramarinus race of the Blue Tit.  The ID books do not do justice to the bright ultramarine colour on the wing and tail.  We also saw our first Woodchat Shrike and Olivaceous Warbler, both of which were subsequently seen on most days.  A further two Booted Eagles, a Black-eared Wheatear and a Grey Wagtail entertained us. 

Just beyond the summit of the pass we went for a walk in a mountain meadow where our target species of twenty Rock Sparrow and several (soon to be split) Seebohm's Wheatear (similar to Northern but with a black throat) were seen almost immediately.  These were supported by Black and Black-eared Wheatears, a pair of Blue Rock Thrushes, Black Redstarts, and our only two Red-billed Choughs of the trip.  We had close views of a pair of Barbary Partridges and saw their white spotted neck collar and again the generally longer neck and brighter appearance compared with our Red-legged.  Our first views of the Barbary Ground Squirrel Atlantoxerus getulus were obtained and a pair of Rock Thrushes (Andy's first in Morocco) were a surprise. 

For lunch we had brochettes and omelettes on the terrace of a roadside cafe near Agouim, but by keeping our eyes on the skies were rewarded with several (albeit distant) raptors, including our first Short-toed Eagle and Long-legged Buzzard along with an adult Egyptian Vulture (Andy's first in Morocco).  Our first Crag Martins were also seen. 

We carried on south to the French garrison town of Ouarzazate and on to the southern shore of the Barrage El Mansour Eddahbi.  The water levels were at there highest for several years, although still well down on their maximum extent, such has been the prolonged period of dry winters in southern Morocco.  Birds were relatively few but included five Spoonbills and ten Ruddy Shelducks while thirteen Black and seven Gull-billed Terns battled against the stiffening wind over the reservoir.  Also seen were Great Crested Grebes, Mallards, a Grey Heron, four Little Egrets and a Cattle Egret. 

After a stop at a crumbling Kasbah, which housed four pairs of nesting White Storks, we headed eastwards through the increasingly desert-like terrain, stopping briefly for the first (of many) White-crowned Black Wheatear of the trip, and arrived at the Hotel Les Roses de Dades in El-Kelaa M'Gouna.        

The hotel was full of musicians and Berber dancing ladies (one was a belly dancer I think)  - probably thirty in all.  Here we were greeted and ordered to dance when we went to the bar before eating.  It was nice to see that this was more for the locals and visiting Moroccan teenagers (who were indistinguishable in looks and actions from European children unlike their elders) rather than for the foreigners.              

Day 3 (El-Kelaa M'Gouna, 158km)

A pre-breakfast walk to the nearby river resulted in Melodious (very yellow below), Olivaceous (whitish below and flat bill) and Bonelli's (very white below) and views of a Cetti's Warbler and Nightingales - all seen (or heard) most days.  Also seen was our first (of many) Spotted Flycatcher and Little and Cattle Egrets flew over as did our only Tree Pipit of the visit.

We then drove to the famous Tagdilt Track near Boumalne de Dades to look for some of the desert specialities.  A stop (only about 2km off a larger road) at a promising area of greener vegetation on the arid high altitude plain proved to be remarkably fruitful.  There were many handsome and tame Temminck's Horned Larks and some Fat Sand Rats (Psammomys sp.) - rather cute actually, standing on their back legs looking around.  Then we had our first sight of a Hoopoe Lark, which was a super large lark, running around on long white legs and fairly tame.  It flew up about 15 feet, closed its wings and dived down almost into the ground.  Over the next few days we would see this display many times. 

Suddenly, in flew a large lark with dark underwings and landed close by.  It was a Thick-billed Lark with an extraordinary huge blue bill.  The blue was much brighter than in the ID books - clearly it was at the height of its breeding plumage.  Andy said they usually struggle to find this bird but we had this one close by. 

Three Crowned Sandgrouse flew in and hung about ready to come in to drink from a small pool.  Fortunately there was a single male, which has a black vertical mark at the base of the bill, otherwise it would have been difficult to tell it from a Spotted Sandgrouse. 

A walk across the plain provided more Hoopoe and three more Thick-billed Larks along with several Desert Wheatears (on the male, the black throat is joined to the black wing) and Red-rumped Wheatears (rusty-red tail, but not very obvious colouring) and Short-toed Larks.  

After a coffee stop in Boumalne we saw a Willow Warbler and a Spotted Flycatcher as well as the usual warblers and Bee-eaters. 

We drove up the Dades Valley and had lunch at a restaurant overlooking the river.  Here we saw a pair of Black Redstarts, a pair of Blue Rock Thrushes, Cetti's and many migrating Black Kites.   Walking down from the top of the gorge we saw more Blue Rock Thrushes, Crag Martins, Black Wheatears and a singing Desert Lark (rather nondescript but had a distinctive call - a rolling 'churr') and a huge swarm of locust high over the clifftops. 

Another walk near the hotel in the evening provided good views of a Hoopoe dust-bathing and we saw more of this spectacular species on most days. 

Day 4 (El-Kelaa M'Gouna to Erfoud, 273km)

Before breakfast by the hotel we saw two Laughing Doves, Olivaceous (the song sometimes was rather similar to a Reed Warbler which we subsequently saw), Cetti's, Melodious and Bonelli's Warblers, a Grey Heron, White Wagtails, a Little Ringed Plover and Crag Martins down to 2m. 

We continued our journey eastwards and stopped in a scrubby wadi on the way.  There were the usual warblers and a Long-legged Buzzard nearby in a tree.  Two Tawny Pipits ran about on the ground.  A Whinchat was a new bird for the trip.  A Desert Lark sang with a rolling churr and a Short-toed Lark (black on its neck) was close by. 

Near Tinerhir (where we got involved with a carpet salesman) there was a family group of White-crowned Black Wheatears (quite common).  Only the males have the white crown and so the others look like Black Wheatears, but have no terminal black band in tail.  Flat desert terrain for the next few days meant that Black Wheatears would no longer be present.   

We then turned off the road and headed up the Todra Gorge in the foothills of the high Atlas, and parked at the bottom of the spectacular 300 metre deep gorge.  Birds typical of the rocky terrain were seen such as Crag Martin, Pallid Swifts (down to 5m) and Blue Rock Thrush (down to 20m) with a single Alpine Swift above.  There was a brief view of a pair of Bonelli's Eagles disappearing over the cliffs.  Also Serins, Goldfinches, Linnets, Hoopoe and a Grey Wagtail were present. 

We had coffee near Tinejdad where several White-crowned Black Wheatears were present.  A walk on the Marra Plain produced several Southern Grey Shrikes, Bee-eaters, a Desert Lark (dark tip to tail) running about on white legs, yet another displaying Hoopoe Lark and our only Spectacled Warbler (with a chick) of the trip. 

Close to the desert town of Erfoud we saw our first Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters with many European Bee-eaters and a singing Rufous Bush-chat.  We also had good views of the Moroccan White Wagtail (more black on the head) and Spanish Yellow Wagtails.  We stayed in the excellent Hotel Kenzi Belere.    

Day 5, (Erfoud, 80km) 

Breakfast at 4am, our destination today was the true desert south of Erfoud - the magnificent sand dunes of Erg Chebbi, close to the Algerian border.  The locals say it is the highest dune in the world at 400m.  We arrived at Cafe Yasmina to witness the sunrise over the dunes, a truly memorable experience.  This is the only place in Morocco to see the Desert Sparrow and we had good views of at least five and some juveniles.  They were very smart birds indeed.  We also had close views of many Subalpine Warblers and the inevitable Crested Larks and Woodchat Shrikes.  A pair of Trumpeter Finches, the male a very nice pink, paid us a visit.   

Andy had persuaded the driver to go as close to the border as possible in the hope of a Houbara Bustard but a "warden" (no doubt paid by the Arabs who had shot them almost to extinction) said there were now only two or three in an area 20x30km.  Andy said that one had been reported here recently but we would have been very lucky indeed to see one amongst the scrub - however we gave it our best shot.  We had superb views of a pair of Desert Warblers (carrying food) which were sandy above and white below with a yellow eye.  There were also several Hoopoe Larks and White-crowned Black Wheatears.  We did a complete circuit of the 35km dune to the east then south through the village of Mfis, beyond which lays the disputed border.   

Going to the west of the dunes, we found that the seasonal lake of Dayet Srji held plenty of water.  As a result many water birds, including two Spoonbills, eleven Greater Flamingos, 157 Ruddy Shelducks, 21 Marbled Ducks, a Marsh Harrier, five Avocets, 90 Black-winged Stilts and a solitary Black Tern.   

We took our picnic lunch under the shade of an acacia near Auberge Darkaoua.  Here we saw and heard two Fulvous Babblers.  I noticed that on the underside of the tail there was a thick and thin band which is not shown in the ID books I have.   

After a sleep from 3-4.30 we walked from the hotel and saw White and Yellow Wagtails, Little Ringed Plovers, White-crowned Black Wheatears and three roosting Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters. 

Day 6 (Erfoud to Ouarzazate, 334km) 

Today we headed westwards along the arid and sparsely populated "southern route" back to Ouarzazate.  The villages along the way looked to be very poor.  We searched a cliff along a wadi where an Eagle Owl had been found recently.  It was clear we had the right spot since the name was spelt out in stones with an arrow pointing at a small cave but the bird was not visible.   

Later by the road we saw a Pied Flycatcher (the local race speculigera has more white on the forehead), a Willow Warbler, a Desert Lark, a Desert Wheatear at 10m and a pair of Brown-necked Ravens (flying with bill pointing down as noted in Collins). 

By the road we came upon a pair of Bar-tailed Larks, which required close scrutiny to clinch identification.  They were very uniformly sandy with no wing patch or marking as seen on a Desert Lark.  Also they did not have a yellow bill and the bill was smaller and pointed.  They had round heads and "friendly" expression but I cannot claim to have seen the tail bar! 

Another stop produced four Orphean Warblers (black pupils and only occasional eye ring could be seen), Willow and Olivaceous Warblers and White-crowned Black Wheatears. 

Our picnic lunch in a bird (and camel filled) palm grove near Tazzarine provided another Orphean Warbler, a Rufous Bush-chat, Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and a large flock of Trumpeter Finches.  Also Spotted and Pied Flycatchers, a Redstart and Subalpine Warblers were in the trees and bushes.  A quick scan of some distant cliffs revealed a pair of raptors which, although distant, gave prolonged views - both perched and in flight (circling on slightly raised wings and stooping) which allowed us to confirm them as Lanner Falcons.  They had a light coloured body and wings below and dark grey/blue above.    

We descended into the lush valley bottom of the Draa and had drinks in a garden cafe near Tanskht.  Here we saw our last Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and two Rufous Bush-chats hopped around, every now and again flicking their wings forward presumably to encourage insects to fly.  Also seen were a large number of Plain Tiger (African Monarch) butterflies and nearby on the river there were two Common Sandpipers. 

We made our way over the dramatic Tizi-n-Tinififft pass (1660m) stopping for a Short-toed Eagle perched on a pylon (large head, light underparts and pale iris).  We had a good view of a Thekla Lark in their typical mountain terrain (smaller bill and less down curved than Crested, spotted rather than streaked breast and melancholy song from a bush) but rather difficult to tell from a Crested. 

Again a very posh hotel surrounded by squalor.  The following morning we watched bread being baked under canvas (hopefully for the locals) just outside the boundary wall.  The town square, just outside the hotel, had a market first thing in the morning with many animals, dust and people milling around.  A wonderful sight but my first attempt at a photo had to be abandoned when I eventually realised that the row of men squatting in the foreground were all relieving themselves!   

Day 7 (Ouarzazate to Taroudant, 305km) 

Before breakfast, we looked across the valley towards the crumbling Kasbah we were at on Day 2, and saw a Night Heron in a tree, Cattle and Little Egrets and a Golden Oriole flew by.  Also in the grounds were Spotted and Pied Flycatchers, a Rufous Bush-chat, many House Buntings and two Quail were heard.    

We continued our journey westwards and about an hour out of Ouarzazate, we stopped for a walk at the Oued Iriri, where the variety of habitats ensured a good range of species.  More Spotted and Pied Flycatchers, Olivaceous and Bonelli's Warblers, Nightingales, Bee-eaters, a Desert Lark, a Rufous Bush-chat and a Nightjar was flushed - perhaps a resident Red-necked or maybe a migrant European.  A Bonelli's Eagle was mobbed by a Kestrel but its nest on the cliff face was empty.  In Andy's slightly earlier visit last year, juveniles were present.  House Martins were nesting on the cliffs and seven Little Swifts flew by.   

We ascended the Tizi-n-Bachkoum pass (1700m) in the Anti Atlas where there were Southern Grey Shrikes, Black-eared Wheatears and more Thekla Larks.   

We stopped for coffee at Tazenakht and then at a Saffron Cafe near Taliouine for a picnic lunch washed down with Saffron Tea.  Here we saw more Spotted and Pied Flycatchers and a superb male Moussier's Redstart. 

After stopping for two more Bonelli's Eagles (one had a bigger & blacker bar on the underwing - believed to be the female) we descended through the arid hills into increasingly green terrain and into the remnant Argan Forests (from which fine oil is made), a threatened habitat found only in Morocco.  Here we found many Spanish Sparrows, Woodchat Shrikes, Bee-eaters and a Chaffinch. 

Shortly afterwards we were at the head of the Sous Valley and there were many Southern Grey Shrikes (algeriensis with grey breast and no white supercilium) perched by the roadside.  The Oued Souss was in full flow through the Aoulouz Gorge where a stop added two Squacco Herons, Red-rumped Swallows, a Peregrine (a nest was nearby apparently), Kingfisher and Fan-tailed Warblers.  A dark Booted Eagle showed its "landing lights" very clearly as it flew towards us. 

A bit further down the valley we had excellent views of a Black-shouldered Kite in a tree and later, when we stopped for two Little Owls, we had super prolonged views of a pair of (including one singing) Black-crowned Tchagra. 

We arrived at the Hotel Palais Salame, in the ancient walled town of Touroudant, giving us time to look round this remarkable and unique hotel before dinner.  I realised I had visited this palace with the children in 1982 on a half day trip from Agadir to this palace and now we were staying here!  Vic bravely went for a swim.      

Day 8 (Taroudant to Tamri and Agadir, 190km) 

We set off from Taroudant heading for the coast down the Sous Valley.  Almost immediately we found another Black-winged Kite sitting in a leafless tree close to the road.  The tree also contained an agitated Cirl Bunting, House Bunting, Chaffinch, Greenfinch, Goldfinch, Common Bulbul and a Magpie (presumably they felt safer the closer they were!).   

At the coast at Tamri we had great views of Bald Ibis, a globally threatened bird with virtually the whole world population along the Moroccan coast around Agadir.  Initially we saw a sizeable flock of about 30 (apparently 10% of the world population) wheeling about the cliff top.  Then we had superb views of a few feeding by the road at 75m.  They looked better than their pictures and were superb when flying. 

We had lunch in Tamri (binoculars well on display to encourage the locals to look after the Ibis).  The choice was freshly fried local seafood or a tajine (a clay pot with slow cooking meat (mostly bones) with vegetables - but quite tasty). 

Then to nearby Cap Rhir where we saw 18 Cory's Shearwaters, along with four Black Terns, a few Moroccan race Cormorants (maroccanus) with white breasts, Sandwich Terns, Gannets, Stonechats, Raven and a single Audouin's Gull on the beach with Yellow-legged Gulls. 

We checked into our hotel (rather typical of a resort) at Agadir but were soon out again on our way to the nearby Souss Estuary.  The site did not disappoint us with Sanderlings, Curlew Sandpipers, Dunlins and Common Sandpipers.  Curlews, Whimbrels, Oystercatchers, Redshanks, Greenshanks, Little Stints and Grey Plover were also seen as were Greater Flamingos, Spoonbills, Grey Herons, Avocets, Black-winged Stilts and Bar-tailed Godwits.

There were many terns including Sandwich, Little, Gull-billed, Common, maybe Arctic Terns and a single Lesser Crested Tern with its yellow-orange bill.  We had super views of several pairs of Stone Curlews.  One pair, presumably with a nest nearby, totally ignored a dog charging about close by. 

It was now getting dark and the Stone Curlew started to call more frequently and then Red-necked Nightjars (earlier we had flushed one) began calling.  A curious sound like two sticks being knocked together.  Luckily we saw one in a tree close by before it flew.   

As we began getting into the minibus we heard the begging (rusty hinge) call of Long-eared Owls and managed to locate them in the eucalyptus trees flying about but still white and fluffy.  

Day 9 (Agadir to Oued Massa & return, 112km) 

For our last full day we went south to the Oued Massa.  A leisurely walk along a track (in a National Park) by the slow flowing river and lush cultivated areas produced many birds.  There were several Moussier's Redstarts and a male Golden Oriole in full view at 10m but only for a few seconds.  Also a few Laughing Doves, Marbled, Ferruginous, Pochard and Tufted Ducks, Flamingos, Blackcaps, Serins, a super male Black-eared Wheatear and a close Magpie showing the blue skin behind the eye of the local race mauritanica. 

We had the rare opportunity to see a Common, Green and Wood Sandpiper feeding side by side, whilst a Short-toed Eagle flew overhead carrying a snake. 

We then returned up river and crossed the river near the Massa village to see a small colony of Plain (Brown-throated Sand) Martins with their weak fluttering flight.  Also Stonechats, Yellow Wagtails and two Stone Curlews were present and a Tchagra was heard. 

We visited the Souss Estuary on the way back to the hotel but nothing new was seen. 

Day 10 (Agadir to Marrakech, 240km) 

We had an early start, driving over the west end of the High Atlas to Marrakech with a stop at Imi-n-Tanoute for coffee.  Here we saw more Red-rumped Swallows (from below it looked as though their rears had been dipped in ink), several Little Swifts and a Cirl Bunting was heard.  We arrived back at the airport to catch a mid afternoon flight home.   

A great trip!  Perhaps the only speciality we missed out was Cream-coloured Coursers.  Andy said several were seen on most trips.  He had a theory that because there had been more rain in the south than was usual, they had not been forced to move north to South Morocco this year.  

161 species were seen with 28 new ones for me: 

Bald Ibis (30+), Marbled Duck (27), Bonelli's Eagle (5), Barbary Partridge (8), Lesser Crested Tern (1), Crowned Sandgrouse (3), Red-necked Nightjar (2), Little Swift (105), Blue-cheeked Bee-eater (14), Thekla Lark (~20), Thick-billed Lark (4), Temminck's Horned Lark (10), Desert Lark (20), Bar-tailed Lark (2), Hoopoe Lark (11), Brown-throated Sand Martin (5), Rufous Bush-chat (8), Moussier's Redstart (28), Seebohm's Wheatear (4), Desert Wheatear (8), Red-rumped Wheatear (6), White-crowned Wheatear (105), Melodious Warbler (7), Desert Warbler (2), Fulvous Babbler (2), Black-crowned Tchagra (6), Desert Sparrow (5), and House Bunting (100+). 

Also seen were:

Black-shouldered Kite (2), Egyptian Vultures (1), Long-legged Buzzard (4), Booted Eagle (8), Short-toed Eagle (3), Lanner (2), Stone Curlew (41), Audouin's Gull (1), Laughing (Palm) Dove (20), Long-eared Owl (3), Alpine Swift (1), Short-toed Lark (38), Black Wheatear (28), Blue Rock Thrush (13), Rock Thrush (2), Spectacled Warbler (3), Orphean Warbler (6), Bonelli's Warbler (5), Common Bulbul (100s), Brown-necked Raven (2), Trumpeter Finch (53).