A Birdwatching Trip to Slovakia May 1998

by Dave Pearce

Day 1 May 8th 1998

We landed at Vienna in the early afternoon and met our leader for the trip, Dr Miroslav Capek (Mirac), the country’s expert on bird calls.  He said that only about fifty people in Slovakia were interested in birdwatching.  We then had a long trip to the Hotel Bobrovnik, in open fields by Lake Liptovska Mara, in the Chocske Mountains to the north of the country.

Day 2 May 9th 1998 

We were up early each day before breakfast.  The countryside around the hotel was alive with birds.  There were many Tree Sparrows, Linnets, Goldfinches, Common and Lesser Whitethroats, Hooded Crows, Fieldfares (feeding young), Starlings, Blackcaps, Tree Pipits, Skylarks, Yellowhammers, Grasshopper Warblers reeling, Wood Warblers, Chaffinches, Chiffchaffs, Stonechats, Swallows, Magpies, White Storks (nesting on pole), Blackbirds, Spotted Flycatchers, Red-backed Shrikes, White Wagtails, Whinchats, Blue-headed Yellow Wagtails, Black Redstarts, Serins, Lapwings, Black-headed Gulls, and Tufted Duck. 

We travelled from Lucanska – Raztocka (Chocske Vrchy) Ivachhova and picked up our local guide for the next two days, Bohumil Murin (Boersh), an amateur birdwatcher.  Then we visited the highland pine forests where we saw Siskins, Nuthatches, Treecreepers, a flying Goshawk, Coal, Great, Blue, Marsh and Crested Tits, Great Spotted Woodpeckers and a Tengmalm's Owl was heard. 

We had good views of a male Three-toed Woodpecker (with yellow crown) flying from tree to tree and drumming; a White-backed Woodpecker a male and female at the nest with food, white barring across back, larger than Great, salmon pink under tail contrasted with red head; a Grey-headed Woodpecker same size and shape as Green but light grey head, I did not see any red but the male has a little. 

We also flushed a Ural Owl from amongst trees, it was larger than a Buzzard, fawn with darker brown wings. 

Throughout the holiday, tapes of various bird calls were played almost continuously which would not be tolerated in the UK. On the way back we stopped in a marshy area near some houses and saw a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker and an Icterine Warbler.

Day 3 May 10th 1998 

In the morning we traveled to Valaska Dubova and another pine forest. There were many Ring Ouzels here in the forest.  Mirac was surprised that we regarded them as a bird of high open moorland.  Common birds seen were Woodpigeons, Raven, Cuckoos, Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers, Crossbills, Robins, Greenfinches, Wood Warblers, Bullfinches, Goldcrests, Wrens, Jays, Mistle and Song Thrushes.  We heard Red-breasted Flycatchers (notes up and down then descending in steps) and saw a Golden Eagle overhead (rounded leading end of wing with inboard wing narrower than at end). We walked to a limestone cliff and eventually had great views of a male and female Wallcreeper on the face, flying and displaying.  A Nutcracker flew over and there were Black Redstarts in the village. We had a close view of a Goshawk on its nest in a dense forest and heard a Firecrest singing. 

We traveled to a UNESCO heritage (folk) village at Vlkolinec.  Here there were nesting Fieldfares, Serins and Collared Doves.  I heard a Hoopoe, looked round and saw it fly into a hedge.  Boersch and Mirac were interested since they had not seen one here before. 

In the evening we tried to lure Corncrakes.  Eventually we had one almost at our feet but it was only glimpsed in the undergrowth.  Also heard nearby was a Long-eared Owl.  Some members of the group were not keen on tape luring but it is unlikely to be a problem here (at present) with so few bird watchers in the country.

Day 4 May 11th 1998 

Today we went to the High Tatra Mountains (Zbojnicka Chata at6,000 ft) and picked up our local guide Dr Marian Janiga on the way. We took the funicular railway to 2,000ft and then walked up the valley.  There were Rooks, Jackdaws, Grey Wagtails, Magpies, Willow Warblers and then Chiffchaffs higher up, Redpolls, Siskins and Dunnocks.  A tough walk which was continuously uphill for three hours, through deep snow (thawing) for the top third.  Only a minority of the group made it to the alpine valley at the top.  There were several pairs of Water Pipits in summer plumage finding flies on the snow, blown up by warm winds.  Two Wheatears and a White Wagtail were also found at the top.  We had close views of four Alpine Accentors, and several Dunnocks which were aggressive towards them.  The guide said there were about twenty Alpine Accentors (four families) in the valley.  He had ringed three hundred over the last ten years. 

Day 5 May 12th 1998 

We traveled to eastern Slovakia close to the border with the Ukraine. On the way we walked along a road on the side of a limestone escarpment with many beech trees.  Mirac walked ahead jotting down an amazing number of birds he heard (I think about thirty).  Rock Buntings were seen and heard, there was a close view of a Honey Buzzard and a Golden Oriole was heard and seen in flight.  A Hawfinch was glimpsed (Mirac said they were very common, he had heard many – but were rarely seen well).  Also Nightingales, Garden Warblers, Swifts, Swallows were seen and Corncrakes heard. 

Near to a castle (Turniansky krad) we looked for Imperial Eagles hunting for Souskin or Sousliks (ground squirrels) but only had a distant view of one.  A Little Owl was seen on farm buildings.  We saw plenty of Common Buzzards each day. 

We visited a large working quarry at Drienovec and Mirac eventually heard a singing Rock Thrush and located a male on the face.  The hotel was on the edge of a lake Zemplinska Sirava, near to Michalovce, and there were hundreds of House Martins breeding on balconies despite attempts to keep them out.  Before the revolution all workers were entitled to two weeks holiday at ‘posh’ hotels paid for by the state.  These hotels and chalets, and there were many in this resort, are now privately owned.  When we arrived in the evening we were greeted by the sound of crickets and Nightingales.  A few Spotted Flycatchers, many Garden Warblers and Black Redstarts were around the hotel.

Day 6 May 13th 1998 

We picked up our guide Dr Stefan Danko (a professional naturalist) who is famous for his photos of eagles etc on the nest (unfortunately he was the only guide who could not speak English). We walked through the town park (nicely unkempt which is a feature of eastern countries) and Serins were seen.  We then moved to residential suburbs and walked around the houses playing taped calls of Syrian Woodpeckers.  Eventually we had close views of very excited male and female and immature.  They were similar to Great Spotted but more white on head (no black bar from lower cheek to back of head), paler underneath and softer call.  There was also a Golden Oriole calling from the top of a tree and I had few seconds clear view. 

We stopped by a farm (Fekisovce) to watch a pair of Montagu's Harriers displaying and there was also a immature male present.  The farmers have always protected the nests when they are found and cut the crops around them. 

We walked into woodland (Ubrez) where we saw a Middle Spotted Woodpecker (male and female with crown red feathers raised – no black on head differentiates it from Great). 

We stopped by a village with sand hills nearby  (Kolibabovce) to see Bee-eaters flying around.  Also here were Crested Lark, Corn Bunting, Turtle Dove and a distant view of a Black Stork. 

We stopped for lunch in the middle of nowhere to see Barred Warblers.  There was a distant view of a Lesser Spotted Eagle and we heard Marsh Warblers and Quail. 

Later we approached a group of trees (at Hriadky) to see Imperial Eagles with young on a nest. The eagles were majestic as they hung motionless above the trees (white on shoulder and leading edge of inner wing).  There was a Hobby and Kestrel nearby and a male Saker came close the eagle but was ignored by it. There are about twenty pairs of Imperial Eagles on these lowlands, protected by the farmers and locals, and about thirty five pairs in the whole of Slovakia. 

We were taken to an artificial nest site for Saker (male fawn on back with light grey head).  Usually both adults are similar but this female was fairly young and was darker brown.  There were young in the nest.

Day 7 May 14th 1998 

Traveled to Senne Ponds (Inacovske rybniky) which was a disused fish farm.  118 species were seen throughout the day.  Dr Danko and other bird watchers have tried to buy the two best ponds (I think about £60,000?) but he said rather aggressively that no one including the British had provided enough money. 

There were Red-necked Grebes on nests and many Black-necked Grebes in breeding plumage.  There were many Little Grebes and hundreds of Great Crested Grebes, several Night, Grey and Purple Herons.  Also present were Great White and Little Egrets, Spoonbills and Avocets.  Whiskered Terns were breeding, and many Black Terns and a few White-winged Black Terns (the rump was very white compared with the Black Terns) migrating through.  Marsh Harriers were everywhere and very close. Several Penduline Tits were seen with a pair building a nest (a ball hanging from a branch).  There were a few Bearded Tits, Reed Buntings, Reed and Sedge Warblers.  A Savi's Warbler (call as Grasshopper Warbler but in shorter bursts) reeled and several Great Reed Warblers (call as Reed Warbler but higher and lower notes and slower paced) sang loudly. A Little Crake was heard close by but not seen despite much tape playing.  Water Rails were heard and one was seen (lured by tape). There were two Mediterranean Gulls with Black-headed Gulls, a Little Gull in winter plumage, Lesser Black–backed, Herring and Common Gulls. Some waders were present.  There were two Grey Plovers in summer plumage, two Little Stints, one Spotted Redshank in summer plumage, two Curlew Sandpipers (one summer and one winter plumage).  Also present were several Reeves (female Ruff) with a male Ruff displaying with a nice ruff; several Little Ringed Plover and one Ringed Plover with Dunlins, Redshanks, Black-tailed Godwits and a few Wood Sandpipers; Coots, Moorhens and Sand Martins.  There was a distant view of a flying Black Stork. Duck were well represented with Wigeon, many Garganey, Shoveler, Gadwall, Tufted, Teal, Pochard, and a Ferruginous Duck flew over. There were Mute Swans breeding, Cuckoos, Yellow Wagtails, a colony of Cormorants, and a Bittern was heard booming.  In short, masses of birds everywhere and it would have been nice to have stayed a little longer. 

Later we stopped by an electricity sub station to see a pair of Lesser Grey Shrikes.  Apparently they nest here most years.  Also seen was a Hobby and a Lesser Spotted Eagle. 

We stopped by a river and had a good view of a River Warbler singing like a sewing machine.  There were also several Golden Orioles in a line of poplars, a Goshawk flew by, Hawfinch, Pheasant, Cuckoo, Red-backed Shrike and many Nightingales. 

We stopped in a quarry just by the hotel, a tape was played and an Eagle Owl immediately appeared in a gap in thick trees around the top of the quarry.  He looked down at us with disdain.  I expect he has had to put with this several times a year (although Mirac said he only had time to do about two trips a year although each trip must significantly increase his income). 

Day 8 May 15th 1998  

Today we were off to the Carpathian Mountains to a 350year old beech forest (Havesova) close to border with Poland and Ukraine.  For the first time we were rather cold listening to our guide Stefan Pcola.  We heard Red-breasted Flycatchers and Collared Flycatchers.  We had a brief view of a Black Woodpecker at its nest hole.  Apparently we were unlucky to have not seen more of these, they breed sparsely but not only in forests. 

We had lunch in a hilly area (Kolbasov) and had a close view of a Lesser Spotted Eagle which flew right overhead (wings held concave downwards and white at carpal joint).  A Sparrowhawk also flew by.  Eventually after much tape playing we had a very agitated Wryneck wailing tui- tui- tui close by.  A most odd looking bird which was very difficult to see when it landed on branches.  Now we had seen all ten European woodpeckers! 

In another wood (Stakein) we had a close view of a Red-breasted Flycatcher with its distinctive song – notes up and down then descending in steps.  We also heard and saw a Middle Spotted Woodpecker in flight.  

We heard and saw briefly a Thrush Nightingale which sounded louder and sometimes harsher than the Nightingale.  

We had dinner in a smart restaurant with five piece band in the forest region. The three course meal with coffee and drinks for sixteen people came to £40.  At most hotels a beer was 40p and elsewhere 30p. 

Day 9 May 16th 1998 

Today we traveled west to south Slovakia near the Hungarian border via Kosice.  A Dipper (dark bellied) was seen on the way. We went to a super marsh at Casta Pila.  Here we were looking for Bluethroat, however, it was very difficult to get a good view of them.  I managed a few seconds and was left with only an impression of a dark bib.  There are only five pairs here. We had very close views of a Moustached Warbler, lured by tape.  It hopped nervously around close to the water (it likes areas with short reeds).  It has a darker crown than Sedge with white eyestripe, dark ear coverts and a white throat.  The song is more like a Nightingale and has a characteristic durr-durr-durr.  There are fifteen pairs here and nowhere else in Slovakia.  It was Mirac who found them many years ago after several years of study of this marsh.   

We also had close views of a Great Reed Warbler with its throat pulsating, crown feathers raised, and steep forehead.  We also heard and saw Marsh, Reed, Savi's, and River Warblers; many Marsh Harriers, several Cuckoos, a glimpsed Kingfisher, Water Rails, Bearded and Penduline Tits and heard a Little Crake with its whiplash like call. 

Day 10 May 17th 1998  

We then picked up our guide in Bratislava and then motored to open countryside -  Zahorska Lowland (near Devinska north of the city) for a Saker's nest with five (unusual) young attended by male adult.  Then we moved on to a river and forest, passing the region that formed the border with Austria.  This region was out of bounds before the "revolution" (Mirac was referring to the fall of communism).  

We had a pleasant walk down a river (marked out for the public) and saw a bedraggled wet Black Kite which eventually flew away. A Honey Buzzard flew overhead – longer tail but I could not see bars on the tail.  Mirac looked for a protruding head and longer tail and did not regard gliding on concave wings as a significant point of identification. Also seen were Redshanks, two Wood Sandpipers, a Great White Egret, Grey Herons, Ringed Plovers, Little Ringed Plovers, River, Great Reed, Reed, and Garden Warblers, and a Penduline Tit with completed nest.  Finally we had a close view of a White Stork’s nest on a pole which were common in villages.  

Then we were off to open country side south of the city, near Rusovce close to the Austrian border.  We had great views of a colony of Red-footed Falcons, males and females flying around and sitting in trees while we were having our picnic.  The males were very dark, with light coloured bill which contrasted with a black face.  The females were browner with streaks and with a light buff collar around nape.  Both had reddish flanks and red legs.  Three nests in the area with artificial sites were sometimes occupied by Kestrels. A Short-eared Owl was flushed out of a nearby hedge and a Grey Partridge was seen on the way back. 

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182 species were seen.  We all dipped out on Pygmy Owl, Short-toed Eagle, Tengmalm's Owl and Hazel Hen (both heard).   

The country was very well looked after, neat and tidy and no litter anywhere, and paths marked as walks for the public.  The people looked reasonably affluent (except perhaps out in the countryside).  Everywhere was alive with birds, generally many, many more than in the English countryside.  

I saw all 10 European Woodpeckers: Three-toed, White-backed, Grey-headed, Syrian, Middle Spotted, Black, Green, Great Spotted, Lesser Spotted and Wryneck.    

Also Golden, Lesser Spotted and Imperial Eagles, Saker, Red-footed Falcon, Montagu’s Harrier, Honey Buzzard, Goshawk, Eagle Owl, Ural Owl (seen briefly). 

Wallcreeper, Black Stork, Lesser Grey Shrike, Bluethroat

Rock Bunting, Thrush Nightingale

Moustached Warbler, Savi's Warbler, Icterine Warbler, River Warbler, Barred Warbler

Alpine Accentor, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Rock Thrush, Nutcracker

Whiskered and White-winged Black Terns, Night Heron.