Visit  to Northern Greece 9^th - 18^th May 2003

by Dave Pearce 

Day 1 - 9th May 2003 

We travelled with Avian Adventures, leaving Heathrow at 12:30 pm, flying via Athens to Thessaloniki where we arrived at 9:45 pm.  Our leader was Carl Powell who works as a Reserve Warden with Suffolk Wildlife Trust and was a very pleasant chap. We were met by Alex Contos, our local guide (not a birder) and driven in a comfortable Mercedes bus, 100 km to our first hotel alongside Lake Kerkini.

Day 2 - 10th May 2003

Kerkini Lake and Strimonas River

The Erodios Hotel (where we stayed for two nights) had an elevated location giving fine views over the countryside and the huge Kerkini Lake.  

On the way to the Strimonas River (an International/National Nature Reserve) we had a brief sight of a Roller and some White Storks.  The fast flowing, wide river held many White Pelicans and Great Cormorants.  Ten Pygmy Cormorants were also present as well as many Grey, Night and Squacco Herons (at least thirty of each) and two Dalmation Pelicans.  Little Egrets, Spoonbills (fifty) were also feeding along the riverbank.  Golden Orioles were singing and seen briefly, Lesser Grey and Red-backed Shrikes, Bee-eaters and Hoopoe also showed well and two Red-rumped Swallows and a Black Stork flew over.  Birds also present, that were to become very familiar over the next few days, included Crested Larks, Olivaceous, Great Reed and Cetti’s Warblers, Little Ringed Plovers, Nightingales, Turtle Doves, Common Buzzards, Black-headed Yellow Wagtails (feldegg) and Whinchats. 

After a picnic lunch we walked through some woods nearby where there were many Nightingales and a few Golden Orioles singing.  A Penduline Tit was seen visiting a nest suspended from a branch and three Hoopoes chased each other between the trees, on one of which a Syrian Woodpecker climbed. 

Viewing the Lake provided five Caspian and Common Terns, a Kingfisher and three more Dalmation Pelicans with their off-white colouring, shaggy head and nape.  Also seen were more Red-backed Shrikes and a few Woodchat Shrikes, Corn Buntings and many Yellow Wagtails fed among the Water Buffalo. 

At the Dam there were ten more Pygmy Cormorants, one hundred Great Crested Grebes, Spanish, House and Tree Sparrows and a Tortoise and a swimming snake.  Another Black Stork was seen and a Black Kite flew by. 

I had some very nice Water Buffalo sausages in the evening.   

Day 3 - 11th May 2003

East to the Rodopi Mountains

Pre-breakfast birding produced Sombre Tit and Common Whitethroat and then we began our journey eastwards. 

The first stop was a dry riverbed at Paleokastro where we had superb views, down to 25 yards, of about six pairs of Rollers and thirty nesting Bee-eaters.  Fantastic.  Also seen was a ringtail Hen Harrier, Kestrel, Raven and a distant Golden Eagle (the only one we saw).  Eventually we spotted a few Rock Sparrows in the shadows and could just hear the song although this was easily overlooked.  A Red-backed Shrike was present and I had a good view, face on, of an Olivaceous Warbler's broad bill. 

During a stop high in the hills we saw our first Black-headed Bunting - the female was rather drab and could be overlooked. Also seen was a Woodchat Shrike, Red-rumped Swallow, Hoopoe, Corn Buntings and Spanish Sparrows. 

After lunch, high in the Rodopi Mountains we walked from the village of Livaditas.  After a slow start - Chaffinch, Chiffchaff and Robin (on the continent they lurk in the undergrowth quite unlike our tame birds) and White Wagtail were the best on offer.  Then things warmed up with many Red-backed Shrikes (I heard the warbler like sub song), a Northern Wheatear, Spanish Sparrow and a Black Stork.  A surprise was several good views of Barred Warblers (yellow eye and the male showed barred flanks), which are not listed as being present here in the Book of Greek Birds.  They listed as scarce and a summer migrant.  Also a pair of Sombre Tits gave good views (face on the bib was a large as the black cap).  A Nuthatch climbed up a tree.  Carl thought probably a Rock Nuthatch because of the height above sea level. 

On the way down we saw another Barred Warbler, Stonechat, Red-backed Shrike, Woodlark and heard an Ortolan (Beethoven's 5th, dee-dee-dee-dah).  A distant Rock Thrush, several Common Buzzards, Kestrels and yet another Roller flew by and a dark phase Short-toed Eagle hovered nearby. 

At a high bridge over the River Nestos there were several Red-rumped Swallows and a few Crag Martins (it took time to see the tail spots and black underwing-coverts) flying with House Martins.   

We stayed in Xanthi (two nights) and in the evening, dinner was under the shade of two huge plane trees in a village square with Goldfinches singing. 

Day 4 - 12th May 2003

Nestos River and Gorge

After breakfast, we followed the River Nestos along the last few miles of its journey to the sea, mostly through woods with some open spaces.  First we had close views at 30m of two Honey Buzzards mating in the trees.  The male was very grey with a white throat and yellow eye and the female rather brown.  A Sparrowhawk flew by. 

There were many Great Spotted Woodpeckers but also a Middle Spotted (it gave three 'kik' calls rather than the single of a Great), Cetti’s and Olivaceous Warblers, a Eurasian Nuthatch and a Hawfinch.  Also many Nightingales and Blackcaps were singing and a Spotted Flycatcher was seen. 

A Lesser Spotted Eagle with its drooping wings appeared over the treetops and in the woods we had several glimpses of an agitated Sparrowhawk.  Knowing that Levant might be present we looked for the black tipped wings but this was difficult to see clearly.  We eventually got a close view of it as it perched nearby and realised the eye was dark rather than yellow so clearly a Levant Sparrowhawk.  Subsequently we saw it sitting on its nest. 

As we were motoring along a track towards the sea, I suddenly caught sight of the largest nest I have ever seen.  After shouts of "back up" we realised we were 50m from the nest of a White-tailed Eagle with two juveniles who would fly within the week.  They kept jumping up and down, flapping their wings and looked huge.  In particular, their large bill went out horizontally before turning downwards.  Several times the dark shadow of the adult was seen drifting over the nest. 

We arrived at a sandy beach by the sea for a picnic.  There were nine Little and two Common Terns, Kentish Plovers and two Mediterranean Gulls (an adult and second summer).  Three Shags were on the sea and were of the Mediterranean race desmarestii - certainly one had very pale underparts but it was difficult to be sure that the bill was yellow.  Also seen were Oystercatchers, Cetti’s and Reed Warblers, and I heard a Bearded Tit.  There were many Red-backed Shrikes and a few Black-headed Buntings and one Pheasant (possibly the only one we saw in the whole holiday). 

During the afternoon, we walked along a path on the side of the Nestos Gorge where we had good views of Blue Rock Thrush, Kestrels, White Wagtails and Jackdaws.  Red-rumped Swallows flew overhead with Crag Martins and three Alpine Swifts. 

Four Black-eared Wheatears were seen - two of the black-throated morphs. 

Day 5 - 13th May 2003

Mangana Wetlands 

Walking around in the Mangana wetlands we heard booming Bitterns and saw many Squacco, Purple and Grey Herons, Little Egrets, Mute Swans, White Storks and three Glossy Ibis.  Waders, which were seen, included Black-winged Stilts, Ruff and Lapwing.  Whiskered, White-winged and a few Gull-billed Terns flew overhead.  Sixty Mediterranean Gulls flew by, calling with their distinctive 'yeah' sound and Marsh Harriers scoured the reed beds. 

Mallard, Shoveler, Red-crested Pochard and Little Grebes were in the pools.  Inevitably there were plenty of Red-backed Shrikes, Bee-eaters and also a few Woodchat Shrikes. 

The pine-fringed beach at Porto Lagos was the next stop; here summer plumaged Grey Plovers were seen, together with Whimbrel and Shelduck.  Nightingales and Olivaceous Warblers sang and the purest Spanish Sparrows yet were seen.  In the sand dunes a wary Stone Curlew could be seen now and again as it walked stealthily in rough grass. 

We moved to the area around Ismarida where we saw Spanish Sparrows, Marsh Harriers, Mediterranean Gulls and White-winged Terns. 

By a stream we had great views of Little Stints in summer plumage down to 10m.  Also Little Ringed Plovers, Wood Sandpipers and a pair of Little Owls were nearby.  Yellow Wagtails, Bee-eaters, a Northern Wheatear, Corn Buntings, a few Lesser Grey and Woodchat Shrikes showed well.  Alongside the stream were several Short-toed Larks (rather pale with stubby bills) as well as a few Skylarks.  Four Gull-billed Terns flew up and down the stream showing their all grey upperparts and occasionally making an  odd call with a deep nasal sound. 

A bit further along the road there were nearly one hundred Collared Pratincoles feeding over the lush grass and also more Gull-billed Terns and several Common Buzzards.  Three Calandra Larks rested 20m away, and then one hovered in front of us at 5m, showing its black "necklace" which I had never seen so well before. 

Ismarida Lake was dried out but some Little Terns were resting there together with more Pratincoles, Gull-billed Terns and Wood Sandpipers.  Also seen was another pair of Calandra Larks, Sand Martins and a male (almost the first seen) Marsh Harrier. 

We made our way to an unpronounceable Turkish village (translated to Reed Castle) to see a colony of Lesser Kestrels.  This was one of the last two remaining sites in Northern Greece. It was a very scruffy agricultural village; dirty with manure lying around, which was probably the reason why the kestrels remained - but for how long!  The colony was centred on the water tower in the middle of the village and there was much coming and going by about 20 birds.  I was able to confirm that they had white nails (easily seen when they were at rest on the water tower) unlike the normal Kestrels. 

On the way to Dadia we saw Cuckoos flying and two Rollers.  

Day 6 - 14th May 2003

Around Dadia 

It was a pleasure to stay within the Nature Reserve at Dadia (two nights) surrounded by superb habitat.  In the morning before breakfast, we walked up through the pine trees to the raptor watch point (only at 163 m altitude above the hotel at 100 m).  Here we saw five Egyptian, twelve Black and four Griffon Vultures from a spacious hide.  Also seen were several Red-backed and Woodchat Shrikes and Black-eared Wheatears. 

After breakfast we explored the local area and I had excellent views of a male and female Sardinian Warbler carrying food near to an adult Subalpine Warbler.  Listening to the scratchy Dunnock like similar songs confused me for some time.  I decided the Subalpine song was more musical and longer and the alarm call less harsh. 

Five Black Storks flew in formation and a Booted Eagle overhead showed brown upperparts with black primaries, light fore and dark rear underwing.  We also had five sightings of Short-toed Eagles with no black to the trailing underwing and a dark breast/head.  Black and Egyptian Vultures were soaring together with a few Ravens. 

In the afternoon we visited the high mountain top of Kapsalo (altitude of 620m), initially flushing two Chukar Partridge (Rock Partridge is not present in Thrace).  We had super close views of a Blue Rock Thrush carrying food, Red-rumped Swallows and a rather distant Ortolan. 

On the way back we saw two more Short-toed Eagles and one Lesser Spotted Eagle together with several singing Woodlarks.  We also watched a Horned Viper consuming a small lizard. 

Day 7 - 15 May 2003

Evros Delta  

Today we visited the Evros Delta, one of the most important wetland sites in Europe.  After picking up a guide we made our way through the military checkpoint and onto the extensive wetlands. 

We had terrific views of a male and female Levant Sparrowhawk perching on telegraph poles.  The black tipped wings were fairly clear to see, as was the relatively unmarked head.  Also Kestrels, a well marked female Marsh Harrier (and many more) and a Black Kite.  We watched a pair of Honey Buzzards on the opposite bank, both of which had very yellow eyes, were very grey on the head, had white throats and very blotchy breasts. The bars on the (presumed) male's tail were more distinct than on the female. 

About ten Black Storks stood in a ploughed field, huge numbers of distant White Pelicans flew by and two more Levant Sparrowhawks were seen.  There were also several Black-headed Buntings, Yellow Wagtails, Bee-eaters and two Syrian Woodpeckers (I do not think their call is as sharp as a Great Spotted). 

Slowly driving by flooded areas we saw many Purple, Night and Squacco Herons, Spoonbills, Little Egrets, Ruff, Shelduck, Wood Sandpipers, Lapwings, Curlew Sandpipers, Little Stints, Black-winged Stilts, Kentish Plovers, two Ruddy Ducks and a single Redshank, Turnstone and male Garganey.   

Ten Spur-winged Plovers showed very well both on the ground and in the air.  

The star wader was a Terek Sandpiper close by on the bank as we emerged from the coach but after a few seconds it flew.  I did manage to see it again twice flying across the floods.  Although the upturned bill was obvious when perched, it was not very obvious when flying.  It was very grey in colour with white on the trailing edge of the wing but graduating to grey. 

There were many Whiskered, White-winged, Common and Little Terns and also a Gull-billed Tern.  Two Pratincoles flew by and several Short-toed Larks were present. 

After a picnic lunch we headed inland to Doriskos Village.  This was an open area with low scrub and we walked along a track at the bottom of a valley.  Here we saw several Isabelline Wheatears, including a pair entering a hole in the ground carrying food.  We had excellent views of an Ortolan, Black-eared Wheatear and Sombre Tits. 

We looked around some nice habitat (Holm Oaks) besides a small chapel named St Georges.  Here we had excellent close views of a male and female Masked Shrike.  At first they were hidden in the trees but eventually showed out in the open super looking birds.  Also seen was a Cirl Bunting; the song to my ears was similar to a Lesser Whitethroat but without the initial stutter, two Hawfinches, another male Masked Shrike and some Jays.  

Three Honey Buzzards flew close by providing prolonged views.  The male had a grey head and the tail bars showed clearly.  However, the tail bars were not visible on the other two birds (female and juvenile?) despite having a good view.  The pigeon-like heads were noticed and the deep wing beats were held concave when gliding.  

At the restaurant in Dadia we could hear a Scops Owl.  It was suggested that the locals were playing tricks but I popped out and saw it clearly on a telegraph post.  It flew to the next pole and started up again.  

Day 8 - 16th May 2003

Returning Westwards  

Today we returned westwards and our first stop was a valley (near the Avas Castle ruin) where we had close views of a Black-headed and a Cirl Bunting and three Golden Orioles flew by.  Woodchat Shrikes, Black-eared Wheatears, Jays and two Common Buzzards were also seen.  

In the nearby Avas Gorge we spotted a Long-legged Buzzard sitting high on a rock from which it eventually flew showing a pale head and reddish upper tail.  Many Red-rumped Swallows were flying, a few Ravens, distant Chukar Partridges and a Blue Rock Thrush.  A male Subalpine Warbler was seen well and a Cirl Bunting was singing (I decided I was unlikely to confuse this with a Lesser Whitethroat). 

I heard a melodious, clear song from a large warbler at the top of a tree. It was black on the head, like a large dark Lesser Whitethroat with a grey indistinct eye ring and iris. This was an Orphean Warbler.  In the Collins Guide it is shown as having a very distinctive yellow iris but it is also noted that, in Turkey, it can be darker.  Carl viewed it for a few seconds and confirmed the ID before it flew off. 

The next stop was Iasmos Gorge above the town, where we had lunch.  This was a very steep sided gorge with a fairly large river with many stony beaches where several Little Ringed Plovers and White Wagtails fed.  There were several Red-rumped Swallows nesting together in their mud nests with tubular entrances hanging below the rocks.  Two Rock Nuthatches were seen well. 

Suddenly an Eagle Owl flew down just above our heads and perched nearby, staring back at us. This was a terrific sight, much more satisfying than seeing it in a quarry.  After a while it flew back towards us, up over our heads, to perch just out of sight.  Certainly this was one of the high spots of the trip. 

Sixteen White Storks flew overhead and a Short-toed Eagle flew by. 

We made a stop in the town of Kavala to test our identification skills, picking out Pallid from the Common Swifts, both nesting on an aqueduct. This was very difficult, but I believe I picked out, and followed, several of the Pallid variety, with much more white on their throats and generally browner.  I cannot say that I saw, with certainty, blunter wing tips and broader hips! 

Day 9 - 17th May 2003      

An early morning walk on the beach revealed several Little Ringed Plovers and a first summer Mediterranean Gull with F77 on its left leg and a colourless ring over the joint of the right leg. 

We walked along a river bed which led into Lake Volvi and saw many Grey and Squacco Herons.  As usual there were many Nightingales, Cetti’s and Olivaceous Warblers, Bee-eaters, Golden Orioles and Turtle Doves.  However, a Spotted Flycatcher and a Common Whitethroat were also seen. 

A second winter White-tailed Eagle flew low over the lake and settled on a post.  Its bill was huge and it had patchy white on its wings and at the base of its tail.  A Hobby and some Red-rumped Swallows and Whiskered Terns flew by. 

The next stop was Lake Koroneia.  We stopped on the southern side for lunch and, through the heat haze, could see a group of Greater Flamingos on the opposite side.  A few Gull-billed and Whiskered Terns and Purple Herons flew by, together with a few Marsh Harriers.  There were at least 100 distant Black-necked Grebes, three Ferruginous and two Pochard Ducks and two Gadwall.  

After lunch we visited the northern shore to get a closer look at the flamingos.  We followed a rough track alongside a dried up riverbed and passed two pairs of Rollers at 20m.  We also had prolonged views of a Long-legged Buzzard (although raised, the bendy wing profile was different to the straighter profile of the Common) with a pair of Common Buzzards, a Hobby and a pair of Little Owls. 

By the lake edge we had great views of two groups of Flamingos (one adult guarding thirty juveniles and one hundred adults) and also Little Stints, Curlew Sandpipers, Black-winged Stilts, two Avocets, five White Pelicans, six Garganey, Whiskered and Gull-billed Terns and a single Little Gull and Woodcock. 

On the way back, a Hobby was dissecting its feathered prey on a telegraph post.  We stopped nearby to see the only Starred Agama Lizard colony in Europe and saw several very large specimens. 

Day 10 - 18th May 2003

Flight Back 

A threatened strike by Air Controllers meant a very early start from Thessaloniki, rather than the expected walk on the way to the airport.    

The weather and temperature was excellent - slightly hotter than a hot summer’s day in the UK.  This year, we wished to have slightly more walking and less travelling: the holiday proved to be just about right in these respects.

The only new bird for me was the Terek Sandpiper.  However, with 163 species seen, including 20 Rollers, ten Short-toed Eagles, an adult and two juvenile White-tailed Eagles, two Lesser-spotted Eagles, five Levant Sparrowhawks, two Long-legged Buzzards, Lesser Kestrels, three species of Vulture plus super views of many Shrikes (including Masked), Pratincoles and a flying Eagle Owl, this was a very good trip indeed.