NAMIBIA

February 2004 by Philip Pope 

This is an account of a Naturetrek organised budget birding trip. Namibia is a big country and it was an attempt to cover as many of the best birding sites as possible in eight days.   

DAY 1

We left Heathrow on the Saturday evening (February 14^th) and picked up our Air Namibia flight to Windhoek from Frankfurt. The airport there seems to be virtually a city in itself and we had a fairly long wait there at a very late hour. However, after a ten hour flight we were landing in a barren airfield in Africa, it was surrounded by hills and fields and seemed to be a long way from the city. Some of us had a tough time at customs, I was pulled off into a side room and interrogated by a formidable Namibian lady who clearly thought that by staring straight into my eyes she could tell if I was lying or not.  

Fortunately she eventually decided I looked honest and I was outside ticking off South African Cliff Swallow and reacquainting myself with Little Swifts, Sand Martins and Greater-striped Swallow.

We met our two guides Neil Macleod and Allan Uys, piled randomly into two minibuses and, strangely, stayed in those same groups all week.  I think it was that our bus (with Neil) immediately hit it off. We were all keen birders and a good spirit prevailed, not least due to the Yorkshire double act of Ken and Ray. These two could give Little and Large a good run for their money.  

It was straight off to the local dam and good views of an African Fish Eagle down by the water. A Paradise Whydah displayed nearby and a Darter flew over. White-browed Sparrow-Weavers were also seen.  

A long drive followed to the first hot spot, the Waterberg Plateau, but lots of birds were seen en route despite the lack of time available for many stops. A host of Abdim's Storks were seen on pools by the side of the road. Two Tawny Eagles gave superb views on a nearby bush and a  Black-breasted Snake-Eagle did a low fly over.  

At a brief lunch stop a flock of Pale-winged Starlings and Red-eyed Bulbuls were new birds for me. Later we passed a large field full of mounds of earth and a loud calling Northern Black Korhaan was seen on the biggest mound.

Two Monteiro’s Hornbills ,our first endemic, were in a tree very close to the road.  

The drive to the plateau was on a very well surfaced road so we were able to keep a good average speed.  The scenery doesn’t change much, low scrub as far as one can see, except the odd mountain in the distance, but its grandeur is the extent of this unspoilt wilderness.  We saw no villages and encountered little traffic.  

On arrival we booked into our lodges and did a little birding whilst unloading the van.  Red-billed Francolins were much in evidence, their raucous calls being heard a large part of the time. Some Scimitarbills showed nearby along with a Blue Waxbill and a Marico Flycatcher.  

Before lunch a very productive walk was taken up the slopes of the plateau. A Violet Woodhoopoe flew over as we emerged from the lodge and a little way up the path a flock of lovely White helmet Shrikes were seen. One of the few songs I had been able to learn was that of the Rockrunner and we were soon hearing this from the large rocks on the plateau. Using a tape caused the bird to fly in close to give us absolutely stunning views in the scopes. Eventually a Hartlaub’s Francolin showed itself to everyone in between the rocks and a Scarlet-chested Sunbird was seen at the top of the loop of the path. As we had almost reached the lodge again we had a Carp’s Tit in the bushes and Alpine Swifts above the plateau itself.  

On the drive down to the restaurant we had an urgent radio message from Allan that a there was a Leopard further back down the road.  We still had the trailer attached and it took a short while to turn the van around, then it was a mad dash back to Allan’s van . Unfortunately too late, the Leopard had departed. A little unnerving to know they were wandering around near our lodge though. We weren’t in  an enclosure.  

DAY 2

The day started with a little rain but that didn’t stop us getting a few more of the specialities before breakfast. Two Rüppell's Parrots  and a Rosy faced lovebird showed well in trees just outside the restaurant, a Grey-backed Bleating Warbler was eventually seen after a bit of skulking and a Little Sparrowhawk perched on a dead log. On the way back to the lodge we encountered a Great Spotted Cuckoo which perched up conveniently right in front of us. We also saw a Violet eared Waxbill.

Whilst packing up a little time was spent examining the Swifts flying around the plateau. After some debate we were all happy that Bradfield’s Swifts were amongst them.  

A short stop on the edge of the reserve gave us Pririt Batis, Grey Hornbill, Acacia Pied Barbet and good views of a  Pearl-spotted Owlet.  

Then it was back on the road heading for Etosha but there was time for several stops. Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters were seen for the first time along with a European Roller and a number of Red-footed Falcons. 

Birding from the van gave us a White-browed Robin, Marico Flycatcher and the first proper views of Shaft-tailed Whydahs. Pale Chanting Goshawks appeared regularly on the roadside pylons and a Brown Snake Eagle also showed well.  

We flushed a Red-crested Korhaan from the grass on the side of the road which persuaded us to stop and Lesser-striped Swallows and an elusive Icterine Warbler were also seen (Melodious don’t occur here).  

Lunch was taken at Lake Otsikoto, actually a very interesting collapsed cave system. Unfortunately it was rather quiet bird wise but we still managed a Reed Cormorant, Palm Swifts and a tricky to see Green Pigeon. A wonderfully bright Plum-coloured Starling displayed to his mate near the entrance. 

The next stop was Okawarongo sewerage farm which held a number of water birds, Great Cormorant, White-fronted Duck, South African Shelduck, Red-billed Teal, Red-knobbed Coots, several Wood Sandpipers, Ruff, Little Stints, Three Banded Plover and a Common Sandpiper. A Hamerkop flew over and some Whiskered Terns were over the ponds.  

On entering the famous Etosha National Park there were plenty of mammals in evidence, Zebra, Giraffe, Wildebeest and Springbok.  There was a fair bit of water around and the lakes had Little and Black-necked Grebes, Greater Flamingos, Black-winged Stilts and Banded Martins overhead. Some Crowned Plovers were seen on the drier areas. The waterhole at the camp at Namutoni was a little disappointing, with so much water around the animals had plenty of spots to choose from. There were, however, some Water Dikkops there and a Groundscraper Thrush was on the lawn.

After the evening meal we spent a while at the waterhole but nothing interesting was forthcoming.  

DAY 3

An early start out in the bus before breakfast. The first birds were a large flock of Chestnut Weavers, then nearby a Pied Babbler showed well, this was a bit of a relief as I had missed one the previous day that practically everyone else saw. Sometimes you’re just in the wrong place in the bus.  We drove slowly around some likely looking Leopard haunts but were sadly unsuccessful, one day!

We later drove some distance towards the edge of the reserve and encountered three Lionesses which were lazing around the remains of a Giraffe, we stayed quite close to them for sometime. A stunning Crimson-breasted Shrike lurked nearby albeit showing only briefly. Birds were plentiful beside the tracks, A Rufous-naped Lark gave its very clear song and a Brubru appeared in a bush . Great Sparrow and Ant-eating Chat were new birds for the trip and an African Barred Warbler finally showed itself, its telephone like song had been heard several times before on the trip.  

A water hole had a good selection of waders including my first Chestnut-banded Plover. There was also Curlew Sandpipers, Wood Sandpipers, White-fronted Plover and Little Stints. A determined effort to find a Two-banded Courser before lunch was successful, just!  

A long break was taken in heat of the afternoon and then we were off again. A Yellow-bellied Eromemola showed well and after considerable study and debate a Desert Cisticola was declared identified. Greater Kestrel was a new raptor for me. A Clapper Lark gave a classic display of wing clapping and finally some Lappet-faced Vultures were seen some distance away in a tree.  

DAY 4

This morning we set off in a different direction from the lodge, immediately encountering a group of Wattled Plovers beside the road.

A Black Sunbird flitted between bushes but eventually showed well, then a Temminck’s Courser was spotted followed by two more species of Lark, firstly Spike-heeled, very distinctive with its decurved bill and then a displaying Monotonous Lark giving its repetitive song.  

Quite a few Ostriches were seen and some Blue Cranes were scoped in the distance.  

An apparently random stop and the playing of a tape brought an immediate response from a cracking Rufous-eared Warbler. Then some Grey-backed Finch Larks showed well, both male and female. Another bird I had previously dipped on in South Africa, always the most satisfying when you finally get them.  

We stopped at another camp for lunch, it was very hot and there seemed to be very little bird activity. Two different African Scops Owls at roost were shown to us perched in full view. I even went for a swim in the camp pool to cool off here.  

The afternoon drive to the next camp produced apparent Pink-billed Larks by the road. A lively debate (with some lively language!) ensued as the plumage of the birds did not tie up with the SASOL field guide. This shows a white throat and a notable demarcation with a buffy breast but the bird did not show this, having a fairly unmarked pale breast.  The western form is clearly rather different.  However, to my mind the pink, conical bill was very distinctive and couldn’t be anything else. Neil settled the argument with his definitive id. They were Pink billed.  

Then came the highlight of the day for most of our bus, six Caspian Plovers, two of which were in full summer plumage. This was duly followed by a stunning male Pallid Harrier. We thought we were in Central Asia for a moment.  

After dinner we visited the local floodlit waterhole at Okaukuejo but nothing was visible despite two Black Rhinos being reported while we were eating.  Four of us stayed there until quite a late hour but to no avail. We encountered a large unidentified snake on the path on the way back to our room.  

DAY 5  

Early morning found us at the water hole once more, this time with plenty of birds around. A nest of Sociable Weavers was admired, not the most exciting of birds but an incredible nest. Also in the area were Grey-hooded Kingfisher , Titbabbler, Brubru, two Giant Eagle Owls and another Pearl-spotted Owlet. A Kalahari Robin was seen nearby.

A stop on the way out of town gave us a whole host of Red-footed Falcons.  

Lunch was at a restaurant set in some lovely gardens in which, while waiting for food to be prepared we got some good birds. A Bearded Woodpecker showed well and Didric Cuckoos were calling and flying around, also several Pririt Batis. The Red-faced Lovebirds seemed of dubious origins as they were associating with some that were still in cages!  

Driving on we encountered a Lanner Falcon perched up and an obliging pair of Pygmy Falcons near a Sociable Weaver’s nest (a characteristic association apparently) who actually mated in front of us.  

An area of woodland near to our overnight stop gave us views of Red-billed Woodhoopoe and the recently split Damara Hornbill (like Yellow billed but with an all white face).  Grey Hornbills were also seen as well as another Bearded Woodpecker.  

DAY 6

Our night at the Staeba hotel at Omaruru seemed quite luxurious compared to Etosha and we were out again at sunrise to a rocky area nearby watching Hartlaub’s Francolins, There were some good birds in this area.  A Black Cuckoo called nearby and eventually gave good telescope views.  I spent a while thinking about what the call reminded me of and decided it was the beginning of the South Bank show music. A Three-streaked Tchagra was seen and then good views were had of the endemic White-tailed Shrike. Finally a Crimson-breasted Shrike  showed in its entirety for the first time, a stunning shade of crimson.  

Whilst preparing to leave the hotel we saw White-backed Mousebirds and heard a Willow Warbler singing.

Before lunch we stopped at a golf course near Neil’s home town (name not recorded) with a good rocky area at its centre. We were on the edge of the Namib desert now and it was very hot, only the keen birders braved this walk. Up on the rocks we had excellent views of a Freckled Nightjar which we flushed several times. We also saw Dusky Sunbird and Larklike Bunting. 

Back on the road again and an African Hawk Eagle was close to us on a branch, it dropped away below showing its characteristic wing pattern. An African Barred Warbler gave an amazing display, leaping around in bizarre fashion. A Martial Eagle was seen some distance away.  

Soon we were driving through a desert landscape, taking the road towards Spitzkoppe and then retracing our steps. We saw a group of Rüppell's Korhaans, Kori Bustards, Stark’s Larks, Namaqua Sandgrouse, a Karoo Chat as well as a Familiar Chat, Cape Sparrow and a Bokmakierie, always a stunning bird to see.  

Reaching Swakopmund the temperature dropped dramatically as we encountered a sea mist, everyone rummaging around for extra clothing. A drive around the coastal sands eventually gave us superb views of Gray’s Larks.  The jizz of these birds doesn’t come out in the pictures in the book, they are little bundles of fluff that kind of bounce along.  

On the shore were thousands of Cape Cormorants, both Greater and Lesser Flamingoes, a Damara Tern and great flocks of waders, some Black Oystercatchers with Curlew Sandpipers, Knot, Little Stints and Avocets.  

On the walk to the restaurant at Walvis Bay Paul and I had a Bar-tailed Godwit and Sanderling on the shore to add to the list.  

DAY 7

The day of the pelagic. We were off down to the harbour early and a ‘sensible’ breakfast before boarding. Around the boats were lots of Common Terns (in unfamiliar winter plumage) with a few Black and Damara Terns. Once at sea White Pelicans were flying alongside and taking fish from the captain’s hand.  A Cape Fur Seal came over the side into the boat to be fed!  

Good views were had of Pomarine Skuas, no full adults but at least one with the twisted ‘spoon’ tails. Many White-chinned Petrels were close to the boat and some chumming brought in a number of Storm Petrels, mainly Wilson’s with a few European, right on our stern, the best views I’ve ever had of these birds.

The conditions were fairly calm  and only one or two felt off colour but the food provided was exceptional, a superb buffet. The whole trip lasted around four hours. 

Back on land we were joined by the two landlubbers and were whisked off to the edge of the desert nearby and the famous Namib sand dunes, not at their biggest here but still impressive. The target here was Dune Larks and they led us a merry dance in the hot sun before satisfactory views were had. I also saw a Shovel-snouted Lizard (the ones that switch feet in the hot sand) and some Dune Ants, recalling the recent ‘Wild Africa’ programme. Nearby were a colony of Cape Sparrows and a Tractrac Chat.  

A visit to the lagoons near to our lodge produced a host of all the usual waders including a Terek Sandpiper and lots of Marsh Sandpipers.

The sewerage lagoon had many Flamingoes as well as Maccoa Ducks and Cape Shovelers. 

DAY 8

Prior to leaving Walvis Bay we went down to the sea to add Crowned Cormorant to the list, a few were found with lots of Cape Cormorants on a metal structure. A Caspian Tern flew past and our first Whimbrel was seen.

The sewerage lagoons were visited again and a Black Heron was found along with all the other birds from the day before. 

The drive to Windhoek was undoubtedly, for me, the highlight of the entire trip. Neil decided that instead of simply taking the new, fast main road, which would give limited scope for birds, we would take the old road which crossed the Namib and then the mountains. 

We were soon driving through classic desert scenery, firstly with dunes then a vast expanse of flat wilderness.  We saw more Ruppell’s Korhaans and then stopped to look at the Welwitschia mirabilis , a bizarre plant related to Pines (the female actually has a cone) which is thought to be the oldest living plant on the planet.  The ones we examined were mere youngsters being only 300 or 400 years old.  

At the next stop we admired a Quiver Tree, so called because the bushmen kept their arrows in the trunks.  Again, this was classic desert with the solitary tree in an expanse of emptiness. Some small hard balls were pointed out on the ground, Oryx excrement, completely dry and hard so that the animals can avoid loss of fluid. Neil declared himself expert at spitting them , so I took up the challenge, but they were a bit heavier than the cherry stones I’m used to and regrettably, Namibia beat England 3-1. 

Moving on the search was on for Ludwig’s Bustards and, just as we were leaving the desert and thought that all was lost we spotted one in the distance. Eventually good views were had in the scopes. Mountain Chats and Namaqua Sandgrouse were also seen.

The vans struggled a bit on some of the mountain tracks, but lunch was taken on a hill top with superb views all around. A pair of Herero Chats came to visit us and showed brilliantly. These are generally reckoned to be difficult birds to get, but these mountains are obviously the place. 

We had time to visit some sewerage works near Windhoek before returning to the airport. A Dwarf Bittern was found here and good views were had of an Osprey. Other birds of note here were Squacco Heron, Pin-tailed Whydah and Red Bishops. 

Then it was back to the airport and time to freshen up before the flight home. 

My rating of this trip was extremely high. Pretty well all of my target birds were seen. I saw 268 species altogether of which 50 were new to me. The leaders were brilliant. Overall I highly recommend it.