This was to be a family holiday taken at a time no sane birder would contemplate Mallorca, in theory anyway. As we had been before in April 1997 we had seen most of the specialities, with the exception of Eleonora's Falcon and Moustached Warbler. We were based in the south-east of the island at Es Llombards, unfortunately over an hour to the best birding sites in the north, but birding was to be a secondary activity this time. As a family party of nine we had hired a large villa (with a two person apartment attached) with a large pool in the small village of Es Llombards from Villa Parade. We again flew with Easyjet from Bristol. There are fewer pictures this time thanks to Nikon's inability to repair my Coolpix properly, but that's another story.

Sat 18th August 2007

Quedgeley to Es Llombards, Mallorca

Weather: Sunny and very warm

Apart from the dreadfully early check-in at 4am, soon made better with a Full Monty, our 6am flight down to Palma was uneventful. On arrival the dank dawn of England was soon forgotten as we arrived to blue skies and very warm sunshine.

The first birds were a few House Sparrows at the airport. We collected our hire cars from Centauro with amazing speed and were soon on the road. We thought the roads were much improved since our last visit ten years ago, but they do seem to have alarming drop-offs at the edges and no kerbs.

We stopped at a Supermarket at S'Aranjassa to buy a few basic supplies like beer and wine, but the women brought a halt to that by wanting to get some food in the fridge!

A female Marsh Harrier was beside the road and a Raven flew over. There was also a Large White butterfly; the island seemed to lack any numbers of butterflies through the week.

We arrived at Es Llombards early to find a really lovely villa, but too early for us to get the keys, so we did the only thing we could do in the circumstances – retreated to the cool of a bar in the village. On the walk there I saw a pair of Stonechats, a couple Spotted Flycatchers and 7+ Thekla Larks. Stonechats were common throughout the week but Spotted Flycatchers were everywhere, difficult to believe now that we are practically twitching them in Britain. I was also pleased to see Thekla Larks with ease, this was flat farming country and they were fairly common. Last time we were here in the north of the island we struggled to find a pair. A pool near the village had a pair of Emperor Dragonflies and a Stripe-necked Terrapin (pic later in report). I also saw a sparrow which although superficially like Tree had many grey streaks in a chestnut cap, so I presume it was a hybrid with House, but I don’t know how unusual this is. On our return to the villa a Peregrine flew over, a male Sardinian Warbler was in the garden and also a Rabbit.

We spent the evening settling in, after a supermarket run, swimming in the pool and stargazing in a jet-black Mediterranean sky devoid of light pollution. Venus and its moons, Mars and the Moon showed particularly well.

Sun 19th August 2007

Es Llombards, Salinas de Levante and Cala Figuera, Mallorca

Weather: Sunny, humid and very warm

As usual I was up before dawn and raring to go, I must have been the only one to see a sunrise all week! I stepped outside and headed out into a very warm morning and noticed a Pipistrelle making a late sweep around the tree by the entrance gates. I heard a Cetti’s Warbler immediately, the only one around here all week. This was different habitat to the north of the island, very dry farmland, with lots of orchards, mostly almonds, and flat for miles to the horizon in three directions. The first of nine Sardinian Warblers rattled at me as I opened the gates and turned left towards Cala Llombards.

First birds included Corn Buntings, Thekla Larks and a super Tawny Pipit in an orchard close to the road. Every field and orchard contained new birds for the trip – Red-legged Partridges, Great Tits and Serins. The sun rose to the sounds of early morning gunfire. Hopefully, the locals were hunting pigeons, rabbits and partridges but later in the week sadly this looked to be a bit more indiscriminate. Worryingly at a farm I passed the farmer was aiming towards the road where I was stood, causing me to pick up my step for a bit.

Next I found a tiny Scops Owl fresh dead on the road, sadly a victim of a car in the night. I saw the first of two Hoopoes and more Stonechats and Spotted Flycatchers.

Arriving at Cala Llombards I found a Stone Curlew in an orchard and shortly after found two more. Stone Curlews seemed to be regular around here and many more were heard calling each night. At the end of the road I reached a sea cliff with a cave at its base and despite much scanning could not see a single bird at sea. I could hear a Peregrine calling though and eventually it flew from the cliff below me and went right past at eye level.

On the return walk home new birds included a nice close flock of 25+ Short-toed Larks together with a few Thekla Larks, the only Fan-tailed Warbler of the week and a flock of ten Tawny Pipits.

After breakfast we drove into Cala Llombards, leaving the teenagers in the pool, to explore our immediate surroundings. As it was a Sunday the small beach here was rammed with locals so we got a few supplies at the shop and returned home. Three Yellow-legged Gulls, the first of the week flew over here.

As it was hot and humid nobody seemed to want to move away from the pool after lunch so Bridgette and I drove out to Salinas de Levante, probably the most famous birding site in the south of the island. It was really too hot to leave the air-conditioned car so we only did so in short bursts.

At our first stop we saw about twenty Avocets and thirty Black-winged Stilts, there was also a flock of fifty small waders. We soon got near enough to realise that they were all Kentish Plovers. I had never seen a flock of this size before. Three Swifts flew over and four Cattle Egrets were in a field with horses. We reached one of the entry points for Es Trenc where a Woodchat Shrike (of the Balearic race badius) was perched on a fence. Then we turned around and headed back to our starting point. Two Hoopoes flew parallel to the car before we reached the main road. We passed half a dozen Ostriches, no seriously – there was an Ostrich farm, but I did do a quick double-take for a moment. We drove back around to our original start position having performed a large loop around the area. Another scan revealed a flock of fifty flying Shelducks and then I picked up twenty Greater Flamingos also in flight and looking terrific. Something or someone had obviously put everything up, there were a couple of Marsh Harriers in the area but we think it was encroaching people that had done it.

We drove around to the entrance track and although I didn’t particularly think it was good idea Bridgette drove us down there anyway where we had much better views of the Flamingos, which had now settled. Also there were another 30+ Black-winged Stilts and a flock of 100+ Yellow-legged Gulls.

In the evening we all drove out to Cala Figuera where we enjoyed a very nice al fresco meal. Whilst there we saw four Shags (of the Mediterranean race desmarestii) and when we got home another Woodchat Shrike was in the garden.

Mon 20th August 2007

Es Llombards, Cala Dor and Es Trenc

Weather: Sunny, humid and very warm with a light shower

A quiet day with the family and no specific birding done but still half a dozen holiday ticks. We sat out on the patio having breakfast where garden birds included a pair of Sardinian Warblers, two Stonechats and two Thekla Larks. I spotted a large dark raptor coming towards us from the horizon. It eventually got near enough for me to identify it as a dark phase Booted Eagle, the only one of the week.

We travelled out to the nearby port of Cala Dor for lunch, with its marina packed with several hundred million quid’s worth of boats, definitely a place for people posing on boats, which hardly ever left their berths. A few birds were notable here including some Crossbills (of the race balearica), a female was seen but others were heard calling in dense pines.

After lunch we spent the afternoon swimming in the warm sea at the beach at Es Trenc. An adult Audouin’s Gull there was excellent but it was bit awkward to use bins there with so many topless girls around.

Returning from the Supermarket in Santanyi in the evening I had my first Turtle Dove of the year and five Swifts went through.

Tue 21st August 2007

Es Llombards, Alcudia and S’Albufera Marsh

Weather: Early thunderstorm with heavy rain then sunny and very warm

I awoke early and left the house and started to walk along the lane towards Cala Llombards. It was overcast with distant rumbles of thunder from the mountains to the north. Very soon however lightning started in earnest and moved nearer and it started to spit with rain. Having a pair of lightning conductors hanging around my neck made me decide to go back. I just made it to under the balcony when it started to pour down and turned as black as night with lightning hitting the land all around. I had seen a covey of 15 Red-legged Partridges, a flock of 20 Corn Buntings and a Stone Curlew before I ran for cover. Then almost as quickly as it started it was gone turning into a beautiful sunny day. Today we were heading to Alcudia, to visit the market, to see the Pollenta Roman Ruins and for me to visit S’Albufera Marsh.

The journey north after breakfast was not without a few notable birds. Three Turtle Doves at Felanitx, 30 Cattle Egrets at Manacor and 28 at Ariany and ten at C’an Picafort, a Woodchat Shrike at Ariany and a Hoopoe at C’an Picafort. We visited the huge market at Alcudia followed by an al fresco lunch and then the Pollenta Roman Ruins for one of my nieces who is a history student. At the ruins there were three Serins, two Spotted Flycatchers, a male Sardinian Warbler and three Common Swifts went through.

By mid-afternoon six of our party decided to head for the beach whilst I headed off to S’Albufera Marsh just opposite with my brother-in-law, Norman and the younger of my three nieces. To be honest it was the wrong time of day and very hot. Along the walk to the Visitor Centre (where they issue free permits) we saw eight Red Crested Pochards and twenty Cattle Egrets. Half way along we met a Dutch couple who were intently watching the skies. On enquiring we saw that they had an ELEONORA’S FALCON very high up chasing a Peregrine across the sky aggressively. It was a very pale Peregrine and initially we thought it may have been the Lanner that had recently been reported. Although the Eleonora’s Falcon was a lifer for me it wasn’t too satisfactory given how high it was, I hoped for better views later. A flock of Pallid Swifts then drifted into view, initially just a few but it soon built up to sixty birds. Amongst them were two Alpine Swifts, a nice find by the Dutch guy.

All along the walkway to the Centre I was searching for Moustached Warblers but to no avail, and on asking the Warden she said that they were very difficult at this time of year. She wasn’t kidding, I failed again! However we did see lots of other birds including eight Little Egrets, 31 Black-winged Stilts (pic above right), seven Purple Gallinules, three Woodchat Shrikes, a Sandwich Tern (my first of the year!), an eclipse drake Garganey, a female Marsh Harrier and a Hoopoe, the last really pleasing my brother-in-law who had always wanted to see one. Notably we had excellent views of three CRESTED COOTS, which were reintroduced to Mallorca in the early 1990’s and were a first for me. I’m not sure if they are established enough to be considered tickable yet, but they are breeding here and were good to see anyway. On the way out a juvenile Black-crowned Night Heron was seen and heard in reeds beside the walkway. A few notable insects were seen too, my first MOLE CRICKET (pic left) was really good, Man, can those guys dig – it went straight down into sun-baked earth, 6+ Speckled Woods of the Southern European race, 6+ Emperor dragonflies, two Scarlet Darters and an as yet unidentified yellow dragonfly.

On the way home a Common Buzzard was at Manacor. I didn’t realise it at the time but most Buzzards on Mallorca are of the race vulpinus, if I had realised we might have stopped and had a proper look at it.

Wed 22nd August 2007

Es Llombards and Colonia de San Jordi

Weather: Rain all morning then hot and sunny

I awoke to find it was raining - a lot - I could hardly believe it, this was meant to be August in the Med. It rained for five hours, there was localised flooding and we were drinking bottled water, it was just like being at home! Therefore my only birding was garden birding sat at the outdoor table under the balcony. There were three advantages to being at home, it was warm, the swimming pool was close to hand and the garden birds here were better than Quedgeley. During the course of the rain I had a pair of Stonechats, two Thekla Larks, two Corn Buntings, a Spotted Flycatcher, a Woodchat Shrike, a Sardinian Warbler, three Turtle Doves and a Hoopoe as well as a few commoner species.

We spent the afternoon mucking about in the pool, of course it had become hot and sunny, the other upside to rain in the Med, it does get better quickly.

Early evening we all went to Colonia San Jordi to find a restaurant and horror of horrors an evening market, which we couldn’t steer the six ladies in our party around. A Shag and three Yellow-legged Gulls were in the bay here.

When we returned home and were having late night drinks outside at 11pm a Scops Owl flitted around the bushes by the pool.

Thu 23rd August 2007

Es Llombards and Palma

Weather: Hot and sunny

A non-birding day apart from a morning walk around the village. All the usual suspects were seen the more notable birds seen included seven Stonechats, 12 Sardinian Warblers, 11 Short-toed Larks, four Thekla Larks, eight Corn Buntings, three Stone Curlews, two Turtle Doves, two Woodchat Shrikes, two Pallid Swifts, two Hoopoes and a Nightingale was heard in the garden.

Today we spent most of the day in Palma at Marineland and in the evening took Michael to the airport. He was returning to Bristol early to fly on to Italy on Friday.

On the way home from the airport there were three Cattle Egrets at Son Sala.

Fri 24th August 2007

Es Llombards and Colonia de San Jordi

Weather: After an early dry start rain all morning then hot and sunny

Bridgette and I decided to go north to do some birding without the family in tow. We intended to do S’Albufera then Boquer Valley and on from there. However the weather changed our plans.

On the journey north there were four Cattle Egrets at Petra and one at Ariany. When we arrived at S’Albufera we bought a picnic lunch and headed into the reserve. Along the entrance road a Squacco Heron flew over, only my second ever, there were 20 Cattle Egrets and a juvenile Black-crowned Night Heron was the first of 16 seen. We decided to walk down the Ses Puntes track in my quest to see Moustached Warblers. Unfortunately it had started to spit with rain and on reaching the first viewing platform on the right hand side it was raining quite hard. Notable birds so far included Purple Herons, Marsh Harriers, Black-winged Stilts, Little Egrets and more Cattle Egrets. We thought that it was just a shower and we would soon dry because it was at least warm. At the far end of the track near the second viewing platform we added the first of two Great Reed Warblers, I had only seen one before, 5+ Cetti's Warblers, two Sardinian Warblers, a Woodchat Shrike, a Great White Egret, a dozen Purple Gallinules, three Snipe, a Green Sandpiper, eight Sanderlings, ten Stone Curlews and a Hoopoe. Then it started to rain English-style so we sheltered under a viewing platform after half an hour until it became very apparent that it wasn't going to stop in a hurry, so Bridgette made a dash for the car. As she was about to leave we heard a Bittern booming. It was very unseasonal but did it several times later and I reported it to the wardens before leaving. I stuck it out for a while in the vain hope of getting a Moustached Warbler and although a couple of warblers in flight looked interesting I only positively identified a couple of Reed Warblers. On the way out an adult Audouin's Gull flew over in company with an adult and two juvenile Yellow-legged Gulls, a Black-headed Gull and two Common Terns. 

Eventually I gave up to and we decided to knock our other plans on the head and go home. It rained hard all the way and when it finally stopped it had been raining for five hours. 

In the afternoon a Tree Sparrow and a Stonechat were in the garden and two Pallid Swifts flew over. Late afternoon Bridgette and Norman found a beautiful Barn Owl which appeared to have been shot dead sadly.

We spent a nice evening at the restaurant in the village called Restaurante Sa Fona, which we would recommend if you are ever in Es Llombards and want to eat more traditionally.   

Below Stripe-necked Terrapin and Turkish Gecko at Es Llombards.

Sat 25th August 2007

Es Llombards, Soller, Cuber Reservoir and home

Weather: Hot and sunny after a cloudy start

Today we were going home so I did a last early walk around the village. Notable birds included five Spotted Flycatchers, eight Corn Buntings, two Stonechats, three Red-legged Partridges, a Sardinian Warbler, 17 Woodpigeons (usually only seen in ones or twos), three Thekla Larks, three Hoopoes, a Woodchat Shrike and three Turtle Doves.

We had to leave by 10am but our flight wasn't until nearly 10pm so we had a long day to fill. First we headed through Palma and up to Soller, where a festival and the inevitable market was taking place. A couple of Cattle Egrets and a Pallid Swift was here. Here we split up and we drove to Cuber Reservoir whilst the rest went into Palma.

Cuber was bakingly hot but ideal for raptors I hoped. I saw a few passerines at first notably a female Chaffinch, the only one of the week, 4+ Stonechats, 6+ Spotted Flycatchers, a Sardinian Warbler, a Raven and a Nightingale below the dam. I searched for Blue Rock Thrush or Rock Thrush in the quarry but failed. Initially the only raptor was a Kestrel, then I picked up two large raptors too high to identify and finally as I walked back towards the car two huge Black Vultures flew into view at reasonably close range. This must be the only guaranteed spot in Europe for this scarce species. There were also Wild Donkeys here - see left.

On the way back to Palma I decided to make one last stop at the viewpoint at Mirador de Ses Barques. Within seconds the distant views of Eleonora's Falcon at S'Albufera were forgotten. Straight out from the viewpoint three Eleonora's Falcons put on a super flying display a nice end to the week.

We drove back to Palma, wandered around the outside of the wonderful cathedral for a bit before retiring from the heat to a cool bar for a beer. 50+ Yellow-legged Gulls with a single Black-headed Gull were roosting off the front here and a lone House Sparrow at the airport brought the curtain down on the week.

SPECIES LIST