Lesvos August 15^th – 29^th 2002 

Introduction

My wife, Michele, and thirteen year old youngest son, Luke, went on a family holiday to Lesvos from 15^th to the 29^th August 2002. We travelled with Manos and stayed at the Kypos apartments just outside Molivos in the north of the island. This really was a family holiday with birding restricted to some early mornings, evenings and generally sloping off when the opportunity presented itself. 

Lesvos is the third largest Greek island and is situated in the Aegean very close to mainland Turkey. Molivos is a spectacular resort centred around a medieval fortress on the north coast.

The main bird area is around Kalloni, half an hour’s drive to the south, but five minute’s drive from our apartment was the Petra Dam. This plastic lined reservoir was not particularly aesthetic but the birds didn’t seem to mind. 

Spring migration time is the best time to visit the island but school holidays etc meant that was not possible. However, armed with Richard Brooks wonderful “Birding on the Greek Island of Lesvos” and the Collins Bird Guide, there was plenty to see and identify in August and I am sure that applies to any other time of the year.

The coach trip from the airport to the resort took us passed the Kalloni Salt Pans, which provided a tantalising glimpse of a vast flock of Greater Flamingos. 

We arrived at the apartments in the late afternoon to find Red Rumped Swallows swooping around the surrounding olive groves.    

Within a few minutes of settling in a Middle Spotted Woodpecker appeared at the top of an olive tree overlooked by our balcony. 

This cracking start to the holiday continued in the early evening with tens of Hooded Crows flying by to roost. But best of all was the experience of almost being dive bombed by four Nightjars hawking around the place at dusk. We watched this performance most evenings. The birds just materialised from their daytime hideaways to sit along the telegraph wires and launch themselves out silently at the local insects.

Other common birds around the apartment included Jays of the eastern black crowned race, Blue and Great Tits, Chaffinch, Greenfinch, House Sparrows and Collared Doves and the occasional Turtle Dove.  

I first visited the Reservoir on the evening of the 19^th August. My first glance brought a Black Stork! Also around the waters edge were three Wood Sandpipers. Several Black-eared Wheatears flitted about, as did flocks of buntings, including both Corn and Cretzschmar's. Also there were the ubiquitous Crested Larks and a mixed party of Yellow Wagtails of several different races.

Further visits brought several Garganey, Mallard, Little Grebe, Coot, Grey Heron, Greenshank and Little Stint.

A pair of Short-toed Eagles were regular, as were a couple of Eleonora’s Falcons. The latter hardly surprising, considering the vast flocks of hirundines and swifts, including not a few Alpines.

However, the morning of the 24^th was the red letter day for, as well as most of the above, we had an immature Flamingo, several Red-backed Shrikes, a Woodchat Shrike, Lesser Whitethroat, Willow Warbler, the most vividly coloured male Stonechat I had ever seen, a stunning rufous Long-legged Buzzard and a marvellous swooping flock of eight Bee-eaters. 

We only made one passing visit to the Kalloni Salt Pans but this was enough to give an unforgettable sight of at least 1000 Flamingos, several Black-winged Stilts, Avocets and a couple of Great White Egrets.

We also had a day on Skala Kalloni beach from where I had a quick look at the mouth of the West River – Red-backed Shrike, Crested Lark, Kentish Plover, Great White Egret, Grey Heron, Common Buzzard and Cormorant. 

I did have a quick look for Ruppell’s Warbler at a couple of places on the Molivos – Petra road but dipped out. I may have been too late in the season but another birder I met had was successful there. I did, however, connect with Rock Nuthatch here.

An early evening meal at beautiful Skala Sikimmia brought another sighting of Short-toed Eagle and we had a couple of views of Shags offshore from Petra beach.

Finally, on our last evening, we eat dinner outside a taverna in Molivos harbour watching a Kingfisher, working for his supper from a perch ten yards from our table – idyllic! 

Conclusion

This was a wonderful holiday on every possible level, in a beautiful and largely unspoiled part of the world. Friendly people, glorious scenery, good food, good wine, beer and ouzo, wonderful weather and fantastic birds made this the best holiday we have ever had.

We arrived back home late on 29^th August. At 4.30 the next afternoon we walked out of Thomas Cook’s in Stroud having booked again for 2003. This time I really will work hard for the Ruppell's Warbler, Black Headed Bunting and Kruper’s Nuthatch ……… or maybe just sip a cold beer and watch the sunset over the Aegean. 

David Owen    5^th September 2002.