Lesbos Trip report 1st – 15th May 2003 

 

by Terry Fenton   

Introduction   

This was to be the first holiday I’d had where birding was high on the agenda! It was also our first spring trip to southern Europe. My non-birding wife Barbara was happy to read on the beach as long as I was back by 6pm! We were concerned about the weather as the reports had been grim. However, we need not have worried as Lesbos had its warmest May for 30 years! Some serious birders on the Island were grumbling about blue skies and warm sunshine as it meant migrating birds would simply fly past, but I saw plenty to keep me more than happy. We were on the first charter flight of the year and 80% of the passengers must have been ‘green’ tourists. I had already done a lot of the ‘groundwork’ on our September 2002 holiday and with ‘Birding on the Greek Island of Lesbos’ by Richard Brooks and the excellent ‘Collins Bird Guide’ I was armed and ready to go!

 

Diary

Page numbers refer to site descriptions in ‘Birding on the Greek Island of Lesbos’

 

1st May 2003

 

Coach from airport – Molyvos, Aeolis Hotel 

 

Passed many people spit-roasting lambs as part of the May Day celebrations! We passed the Kalloni saltpans and had glimpses of the Greater Flamingos. After climbing away from the Kalloni plain we caught up with two White Storks circling above the ‘bandstand’ picnic site (p61).

 

At the hotel we were welcomed like old friends and given the same room as last year overlooking fields and the sea with views to Turkey – magic! On opening the balcony door I heard a new song coming from the tamarisks opposite. It was an unmistakable Black-headed Bunting, two more were singing nearby. This handsome bird was widespread, in just about every habitat on the island. A quick walk to our local beach – singing Corn Buntings seemed to be everywhere, a Black-eared Wheatear, Crested Larks and a Sedge Warbler was singing from a wet ditch, - and everything was green!

 

2nd May 2003

 

Molyvos Harbour

Went into town to pick up my trusty scooter! Checked out the bay to see a raft of 100+ Mediterranean Shearwaters take off after being ‘dive bombed’ by a Yellow-legged Gull.

 

Petra Dam (p58)

The scrub and reeds before the dam had three singing male Red-backed Shrikes, a male Woodchat Shrike, Black-headed Buntings, a Turtle Dove, singing Cetti’s Warblers, a pair of nesting Stonechats and over flying Bee-eaters and a Peregrine.

At the dam wall I eventually identified Subalpine Warbler, a gem! The bird seemed to have two ‘scratchy’ songs, one delivered from cover, and another version delivered in song flight when the bird could then have been mistaken for Ruppell's, (which indeed it was by some birders keen to tick off this species!). Once learnt, however, I heard many more in this area.

My conversation with a Geordie birder was interrupted by an unidentified harsh chuckling/chattering noise behind me. He saw a large thrush type bird dive for cover at the same time. It remains a mystery, but I later spoke to some Belgians who had seen three Great Spotted Cuckoos in this area earlier the same day! Take nothing for granted and investigate everything!

Along the track there was an Isabelline Wheatear, a Black-eared Wheatear, two Spotted Flycatchers, and two Nightingales. Finally a Black Stork appeared to the north, circled high and drifted south. The reservoir was full with only a couple of metres of black plastic showing, and held only Yellow-legged Gulls. 

          Petra dam 

Kalloni Pool (p28)

I was amazed to find c 60 birders around the pool, which was full of water unlike last September when it was dry. Inevitably I ‘teamed up’ with a group to walk around the perimeter. I finally caught up with two male Gargeney showing well. A group of Spanish Sparrows were squabbling in an adjacent field. An unfamiliar song from the base of a tamarisk turned out to be from a Great Reed Warbler, once heard, never forgotten! Bee-eaters were constantly heard overhead. A Sand Martin sat on wires, while two Glossy Ibis fed unconcerned only 20 metres from the ‘crowds’. Further on a group were getting exited over a wader that landed next to two Wood Sandpipers. On landing it showed a large white wedge, had a fine bill and was quite delicate when feeding, the consensus was a Marsh Sandpiper, a bird that for many years I’d longed to see – beautiful! (Flocks of 30 had been through the previous week). Further on two Little Bitterns were perched in a tamarisk ‘sky pointing’ thinking they would be less conspicuous. A Purple Heron alighted and upset the 30+ Black-winged Stilts, some of which were nesting.

Finally, while in the company of a Dutch photographer and an American birder living in Germany, a ‘Reed Warbler’ came briefly into view and uttered a loud ‘tchack’. The Dutch photographer claimed quite confidently it was (in German) a Buschrohrsanger, which when translated using my American colleagues German guide, was Acrocephalus dumetorum or Blyth’s Reed Warbler! He reckoned to have become familiar with the bird in India, and if he was right then he’s a better man than me! I haven’t ticked it. (Have any been reported Richard?). 

 

Kalloni West River (p29)

A quick scan showed three Great White Egrets, four Grey Herons and two Little Terns. 

 

3rd May 2003

Woke to singing Willow Warbler, Sedge Warbler and Black-headed Bunting. 

 

Road bridge over river on Vafios road (p58)

Red-rumped Swallows were nesting under the bridge (subsequently saw many more pairs around the island usually near bridges/culverts). Nightingales singing. (They were seen all over the island, it seemed every wooded gully had one or two birds singing). 

 

Petra Dam (p58)

Most of the passerines of the 2nd were there with the addition of two Cirl Buntings. A raptor circling high and showing pale, almost translucent wings delighted the group from Pembrokeshire and me, as it was a much sought after Long-legged Buzzard.

 

Electricity sub-station by pools (p61)

Produced the best ever views of Serins I’ve ever had, and a singing Goldcrest. I spent half an hour tracking down a ‘weep’ noise that turned out to be Chaffinches! 

 

 

‘Bandstand’ picnic site (p61)

Lunch and raptor stop. A Dutch birder was very proficient at picking out distant raptors and turned up Common Buzzard, female Marsh Harrier, Black Stork and a very distant Long-legged Buzzard, its tail showing white as it banked, - just as illustrated in the excellent Collins Bird Guide. 

 

Kalloni Inland Lake (p35)

Had five roosting Black-crowned Night Herons, a Squacco Heron, a male Little Bittern, a pair of Little Grebes, Nightingale, Sedge and Reed Warblers and a pair of Woodchat Shrike. 

 

Kalloni Pool (p 28) 

Fewer birders, but three Squacco Herons. 

 

Kalloni East River Mouth (p 33)

Two more Squacco Herons, two Kentish Plovers, two Little Ringed Plovers, and four Bee-eaters appeared to be nesting on the opposite bank. 

 

Salt Pans (p41)

Numerous Bee-eaters on wires. A flock of 40 Curlew Sandpipers with ten Black-tailed Godwits, Common Terns, many Avocets and Greater Flamingos. 

 

Flooded Sheep field (p 40)

Not flooded but some pools left, and loads of birders, one group watching a small brown bird singing from the top of a bush. It had a particularly rich brown tail with white spots at the tip when it flew off. It didn’t flick its tail up but a Rufus Bush Robin all the same. Another ‘gang’ was assembling at the edge of one of the pools watching c 15 ‘Yellow Wagtails’. On closer inspection most were Blue-headed variants, but one in particular had a grey back, obvious double white wing bar, and yellow eye-stripe, a female Citrine Wagtail. Also there were two beautiful summer plumaged Red-throated Pipits. 

 

4th May 2003

Woke to Willow Warbler and Black-headed Bunting singing. 

 

Molyvos Lay-by on coast road (p 58)

Searching for Great Spotted Cuckoos, but only found Hooded Crows and Jays in the oaks. First lay-by had two pairs of very obvious and showy Ruppell's Warblers singing from bushes and in display flight – excellent views in the scope, - a really smart bird. A bunting singing a rather mournful “de – de – de – derr” to the tune of Beethoven’s Fifth distracted me from the Ruppell's. It had a reddish brown belly and a similar coloured throat patch, my first Cretzschmar's Bunting! Crept around the headland to see singing Red-backed Shrike, Black-eared Wheatear, singing Blue Rock Thrush and a pair of Peregrines shoot past. Offshore 300 Mediterranean Shearwaters were moving west. A Black-crowned Night Heron appeared from around the headland and landed in an olive grove!

 

Main road garage pool (p41)

Three Wood Sandpipers, two Little Stints and a Black-headed Wagtail. 

 

Road Bridge over East River (p 32) 

Yellow-legged Gulls and Little Egrets with two Whiskered Terns hawking back and forth. 

 

Pool between Pans and Derbyshire (p 40)

A long-winged raptor landed in a tree. It had a pale head and upper body, when it took off again it revealed very white inner primaries, rufous underparts, and a pale uniform tail as it banked and drifted over the ridge – excellent views of a Long-legged Buzzard. 

 

Derbyshire (p 42)

Distant standing water had Yellow-legged Gulls, ten Gull-billed Terns, a Gadwall, probable breeding Kentish Plovers, a Shelduck and two Ruddy Shelduck, another target species. A rather pale coloured Fox appeared and put up everything, including the Ruddy Shelducks revealing their white wing patches. 

 

Achladeri (p 44)

I arrived as a party from Edinburgh were disembarking. The car park had a wonderful male Masked Shrike. It sang from the top of several pines and had crisp black and white plumage with beautiful orange flanks – absolutely magic! A Sparrowhawk over flew and a Hoopoe was heard. We crept quietly into the pinewood to a dead pine where a photographer lay motionless only four metres from the base of the tree! We assembled well away from the tree and it wasn’t long before our target species arrived, one of the Islands stars, a Kruper’s Nuthatch. We watched the parents for half an hour as they brought in food to feed young. The reddish breast and vent patches were obvious. The group leader then identified a Short-toed Treecreeper from its characteristic call – there are some advantages of being in a group! 

 

Flooded Sheep fields (p 40) 

Loads of birders again. There were now two Citrine Wagtails. A Short-toed Lark had now joined the two Red-throated Pipits. A second, rapidly drying pool had two Wood Sandpipers and small Stint. I was just getting my scope on it when some birders continued to walk up to it and put it up! – There are some disadvantages of being in a group! The white outer tail was obvious and fortunately the bird returned and the pale legs confirmed a Temminck's Stint. Speeding back to Molyvos (I was late!) I glimpsed a Little Owl perched on the water tower in Arisvi. 

 

5th May 2003

Willow Warbler still singing. 

 

Molyvos, lay-by on coast road (p 58) 

Same birds as yesterday plus probable Sardinian Warbler. 

 

Oak woodland above lay-by 

Continuing my search for Great Spotted Cuckoos, I followed the track till it petered out. I saw a pair of Cirl Buntings drinking from a spring, a Nightingale, Middle Spotted Woodpecker, six Jays, Hoopoe, Spotted Flycatcher, 15 Bee-eaters flying high and north, a singing Sardinian Warbler, Blackbirds everywhere and finally a two foot shiny brown snake, which I nearly stepped on! 

 

Petra dam (p 58)

According to three other birders I had just missed a Marsh Harrier, Black Kite and Common Buzzard by 15 minutes but was in time to see six Alpine Swifts, two Honey Buzzards and most surprisingly a huge eagle that appeared from the south and drifted up the valley. It was generally dark but had very obvious light wing coverts. After reference to ‘Collins’ we all agreed on Golden Eagle, are rare visitor to the Island. 

 

Eftalou Valley (p 59)

A pair of Masked Shrikes in the olive grove, Cretzschmar's and Black-headed Buntings, eight Bee-eaters flying high and north, and I flushed a Chukar from the track. It alighted across the valley and stood in the shade of a boulder where I managed to scope it and see the difference between it and Rock Partridge. There were five birds in the valley altogether. At the radio mast a Long-legged Buzzard appeared and drifted down the valley, while Woodlarks sang above me. At the hot springs two Shags were close to the shore. 

 

6th May 2003

No Willow Warbler, presumably moved on. 

 

Pinewoods above Petra 

Good views of soaring Long-legged Buzzard. 

 

Kalloni Western Salt Pans (p 41) 

Having been told by another birder (and even the waiter in our favourite restaurant) of a Dalmatian Pelican that had been at the salt pans all week, I couldn’t believe I’d missed it on my previous visits! In the main channel along the main road into the saltpans, there it was, a juvenile Dalmatian Pelican. It was hard to believe this was a wild bird as it fed only 15 metres from the road. It eventually tired of the channel and flipped over the wall onto the pans, showing its huge wings, a remarkable sight! A White Stork dropped down to feed in the adjacent field, 147 Avocets fed on the pans, ten Glossy Ibises arrived off the sea struggling against a stiff northerly wind and a Zitting Cisticola ‘dzip-ed’ in song flight (I prefer the old name of Fan-tailed Warbler myself). 

 

Flooded Sheep Field (p 40)

No Citrine Wagtails, but two Short-toed Larks now. 

 

East River Mouth (p 33)

Much the same birds as the 3rd but numerous terns were with Yellow-legged Gulls on the sand spit. I counted 15 Common Terns, 44 Whiskered Terns and ten White-winged Black Terns - my second target of the day; a magical sight, their flickering white wings contrasting with their dark bodies as they flew up river hawking for insects. They more than made up for the one bird I missed at Teesmouth in the early seventies. 

 

Kalloni Pool (p 28)

A further seven White-winged Black Terns and five Ruff. 

 

Paraklia Marsh (p 64)

A quick visit – Sedge, Reed and Olivaceous Warblers and one Grey Heron. 

 

 

‘Devil’s Bridge’ (p 65) 

I ran into the Pembroke group again, Cirl and Cretzschmar's Buntings, Stonechats, Black-eared Wheatears and a Long-legged Buzzard carrying a snake. The deafening blast of heavy field artillery from the army manoeuvres below signalled home time! 

 

7th May 2003

 

Viewpoint above Skala Sikaminias (p 60)

A Long-legged Buzzard drifted across the valley, mobbed by a Hooded Crow, shortly followed by a Goshawk, which was similarly mobbed. 

 

Harbour 

Only a few loafing Yellow-legged Gulls, the tamarisks along the beach had Olivaceous warbler and Turtle Doves purring from the olive groves. 

 

Reedy River mouth (p 59 and plate77) 

Black-headed and Cretzschmar's Buntings, Red-backed and Woodchat Shrikes, Great Reed and Subalpine Warblers, Black-eared Wheatear, Nightingale, Sombre Tit carrying food to young, a Long-Legged Buzzard and a Sparrowhawk. 

In the evening a Scops Owl was calling outside the apartment. 

 

8th May 2003

Woke to singing Sedge and Olivaceous Warblers and a Blackcap. 

 

Anaxos-Skoutaros road (p 62) 

A Long-legged Buzzard circled over the ridge, prompting a Common Buzzard to fly up from the woodland below the road. A right old tussle ensued with talon grappling and the Long-legged Buzzard beating a hasty retreat. It was a great opportunity to compare the two and see the substantially longer wingspan of the Long-legged. 

 

Skoutaros-Skalochori road, Olive Tree Warbler site (p 63)

Two singing Woodlarks, one right overhead, two Hoopoes and a Cuckoo calling, Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Woodchat Shrike, Subalpine Warbler and two Common Buzzards circled. A large grey warbler appeared on the roadside wall. It had very pale underparts, a darkish tail and uttered a ‘chack’ alarm call. Another bird arrived and the two chased each other back and forth across the road, one remaining to give a deep churring – probably the ‘kerrekekekekek’ as described in ‘Collins’. Unfortunately the bird didn’t sing but definitely an Olive Tree Warbler, and far better views than the one I saw in Poros in 1981. 

 

 

‘Grand Canyon’ (p 79) 

Two Crag Martins nesting up on left, and more birds further down on right. Roadside information boards describe the birds. 

 

Perivolis Monastery (p78) 

Closed, but well worth a look, if open, to view the ancient frescos depicting the apocalypse – two Jackdaws and a single Spotted Flycatcher by the river. 

 

Ipsilou Monastery (p 72)

The oaks on the south side had three Blackcaps, and singing Cretzchmar’s Bunting. Then I heard a different song and wrote it down as ‘you, - you – are – an – eeej–it’ which compares well with the more accurate ‘zre, zru – zru – zru – zrih-zra’ to be found in ‘Collins’. It came from a pale yellow-headed greyish bunting and was my final target species, a Cinereous Bunting (thanks to the lads in the Pembroke group who tipped me off). I’m only 90% sure I saw one in eastern Crete in September 1987 so it’s nice to finally tick it off!

On the windy north side of the monastery the nasal calls of Rock Sparrows could be heard and the birds were eventually seen at a distance. However, the pair nesting in a hole in the wall just before the entrance gave spectacular views of their pale supercilium and yellow throat patch as they perched on wires. From the roof, Rock Nuthatch and Blue Rock Thrush were seen carrying food to their young. 

 

Molyvos 10.30pm 

A very orange looking screeching Barn Owl flew overhead (guttata?). 

 

9th May 2003

 

Petra dam area (p 58) 

Black-eared Wheatear, Olivaceous, Great Reed and Subalpine Warblers, Nightingale, Stonechat, Raven, Black Kite, Long-legged Buzzard. Below the ridge of Mount Lepetimnos three large raptors circled, but were too distant to identify (They definitely weren’t the Egyptian and two Griffon Vultures later reported there). 

 

Molyvos 10.30pm 

Another screeching Barn Owl, definitely alba this time! 

 

10th May 2003

 

Petra dam area (p 58) 

Same passerines as yesterday with the addition of Marsh Warbler quietly singing from within an oak. Taking lunch under my favourite olive tree over the ridge by the dam wall, what I thought was a nightingale sub-song turned out to be, (after an hours stalking), an eastern race Orphean Warbler (crassirostris). It confused me as it had a dark eye unlike the pale-eyed birds I’d seen in Spain. A White Stork drifted over high and east, and a light phase Eleonora’s Falcon flew up the valley. Four ‘chunky’ falcons screamed overhead and talon grappled, two were definitely Peregrines and drifted back towards Molyvos, the other two drifted up to Mount Lepetimnos. 

 

11th May 2003

 

Molyvos Harbour 

Two Cory’s (Scopoli’s) Shearwaters resting on calm water, and five Striped Dolphins passed heading east. 

 

Open area to north of castle 

Two male and one female Northern Wheatear and a Long-legged Buzzard being mobbed by Gulls and Hooded Crows. 

 

Boat to Skala Sikaminias 

Mediterranean Shearwaters passing east and west. 

 

12th May 2003

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Skala Kalloni 

A White Pelican - unfortunately the one the fishermen have tamed (can I tick it?). 

 

East River Mouth 

Ten Whiskered and six White-winged Black Terns, a Black Stork fishing. 

 

Almiropotamus River Mouth, Vatera (p 48) 

Reed, Great Reed, and Olivaceous Warblers, nesting Moorhens, a Little Egret, and four Common Buzzards over hillside talon grappling. 

 

Agios Fokas Headland (p 48) 

Black-eared Wheatear, two Cormorants, passing Mediterranean Shearwaters, and one Richard Brooks! 

 

Below Ambeliko 

Two calling Cuckoos. 

 

Kalloni Salt Pans (p 41) 

22 White-winged Black Terns hawking over fields.

 

13th May 2003

With the exception of Red-Footed Falcon and Rose-coloured Starling I’d seen all my target species and planned a relaxing day around Mount Lepetimnos looking for raptors, but the lure of a mega twitch changed that! 

 

Petra dam area (p 58)

The usual passerines and the Orphean Warbler was still there. I’d just scoped a Long-legged Buzzard from my favourite olive tree and was descending the track to the dam when a dark brown ‘Sparrowhawk’ flew past me only ten metres away. As it banked away from me I noticed the rufous barring below and that it had a heavily barred tail. I remembered there was something about the eye colour that was important and these eyes were black! - Could it be? – I rummaged for my Collins, heartbeat rising, and YES! A female Levant Sparrowhawk. I ‘scooted’ back to the main Vafios road to see if I could relocate it. I didn’t, but a male Lesser Kestrel passed over the road, its blue wing patches quite obvious. A distant raptor turned out to be a Short-toed Eagle (the first of this holiday) a Black Stork drifted north along the mountain ridge where two distant falcons were displaying.

I then met two birders who informed me they’d been to the West River to see a Terek Sandpiper, for me, one of those birds that has always had a special appeal. I was dithering. Today was going well, I could go all the way to Kalloni and dip!  - Decisions – decisions – Right! That’s it! 

 

Kalloni West River (p 29) 

45 minutes later I was scanning the saltmarsh but rather disappointed there were no birders – nor Sandpipers! Damn! (The high’s and lows of birding).  I settled down at the sand spit and prepared for a long wait. Birders came and went, but after only 45 minutes a small wader with a light wing-bar alighted on the far side of the river. It had yellow legs and bobbed its tail up and down as it fed, but even at 40x I couldn’t make out the bill shape. Then the Dutch photographer I’d met on the 2nd appeared on the far bank stalking the bird! He eventually put the bird up and fortunately for my companion and me it landed closer to us. We watched it for about two hours and as it fed rapidly we could see the darkish bib, yellow legs and the clearly upturned bill, a Terek Sandpiper! Magic! The Island’s third record!

A party of 27 Glossy Ibises flew west; a Black-headed Wagtail was on the saltmarsh and a noisy Oystercatcher landed on the sand spit. 

 

Petra dam (p 58) 6pm 

A last look, and finally something other than Yellow-legged Gulls, a Squacco Heron! 

 

14th May 2003

 

 

‘Our’ beach, Molyvos 

Olivaceous and Great Reed Warbler singing from a wet ditch, and a Black Tern appeared and flew towards the castle! 

 

Conclusion 

We had another great holiday. Saw some smashing and surprising birds, wonderful wild flowers, romantic sunsets and drank some good wine. It might have been different with bad weather but we’ll take that chance again next year!