Visit to Lesbos 18th to 25th April 2001 

by Dave Pearce

We left Heathrow in afternoon of 18th and flew via Athens to Mytilini. 

Day 1 - 19th April 2001 

Around Skala Kalloni

A ringtail Montagu's Harrier was hunting by the hotel. (any Hen Harriers have left).  

Several Squacco Herons feeding (buff-brown but very white when flying) on Kalloni II pool. 16 Glossy Ibises - perfect views in sunlight.  Two Great Reed Warblers. Close view of Little Bittern the on pool (I never saw one again after this, which was a surprise). Two Night Herons flew around and then roosted in some trees. Many Wood Sandpipers and Ruff, Cetti's Warbler and Nightingales singing. A male Garganey and a Kingfisher on the pool. There was a colony of Spanish Sparrows on the front and many House Sparrows (grey heads).  

On East River there were many Squacco Herons, Little Egrets and Wood Sandpipers. Several Common Whitethroats and a few Great Reed and Sedge Warblers. We forded the river and moved on to the Salt Pans and several Marsh Harriers were seen. There were a few Dunlins, Little Stints, Little Ringed Plovers, Kentish Plovers, Common Sandpipers, plus two Sanderlings, a Greenshank and a Grey Heron. There were a few Shelducks and Shovelers, many Greater Flamingos, Avocets and Black-winged Stilts. Also two Spoonbills, adults with only the spoon yellow, a few Alpine Swifts and Red-rumped Swallows flew close by and a Stone Curlew landed nearby. Terns were represented by three Gull-billed Terns, noted the heavy bill, short tail with grey rump (Sandwich longer and white), many Little and Common Terns and a very large Caspian Tern. Passerines included many Whinchats and Crested Larks were everywhere (distinctive clear up and down notes). 

Then on to "Derbyshire" where there were many Ruddy Shelducks, a Great White Egret, two Spoonbills and a Spotted Redshank in summer plumage. Also three Ravens, a party of Stonechats, a Woodchat Shrike and two Black-eared Wheatears (pale throated).  These are race melanoleuca with almost silver white head and mantle contrasting with black.  Also Northern Wheatears were here. There were several Yellow (Black-headed) Wagtails of race feldegg and three Short-toed Larks. I noted the rufous tinged crown, dark patch on breast-side (which appeared to go right across as wind ruffled feathers and pale unmarked below. 

We went on to the first Nuthatch site where there were many Chaffinches and Blackbirds.  We heard both Hoopoe and Cuckoo.  Also Long-tailed Tits, Hooded Crows, Great and Blue Tits. We had great views of a male Subalpine Warbler with a brick-red breast and throat with lead-grey head separated by white moustachial stripes.  

We moved on to the second Nuthatch site just before Achladeri.  We first heard it call (like a Jay on helium) and then saw a pair of Kruper's Nuthatches - like a small version of ours but with square rusty red patch on breast with white supercilium. 71 species were seen.

Day 2 - 20th April 2001  

Skala Eressou (NW)  

There was a White Stork on a nest on the church and also Collared Doves. By the hotel, we had a good view of an Olivaceous Warbler (elaeica).  I noted its long bill, which was narrow viewed from the side but flattened and its hoarse warbling song with a repeated phrase at long intervals. 

On nearby Parakila Marsh we had Fan-tailed Warbler (now Zitting Cisticola) with excellent views.  The water was too high for crakes. At Skala Eressos there were many Mediterranean Shearwaters off shore of the yelkouan race. There were many Jackdaws (only one other place where these occur). Also a raft of 12 Shags offshore (no Cormorants on the island). To the north of the beach there was a high ridge with many (10+) Lesser Kestrels riding the wind with bowed wings (I never saw one hovering although they do do so). A ringtail Montagu's Harrier flew by and a Honey Buzzard (a well marked pale morph) landed (only glimpsed) on the hillside.  Several Long-legged Buzzards were flying around the hillside (light head and upper tail with rufous undertail and long winged). After picnic on the beach, had two prolonged, close views of a Little Crake (lead slate head and lower parts, buff/black above with red base to bill) feeding along the edge of the Chalandra River . 

We drove up into the mountains (mostly scrub) and stopped on zigzag north of Eressos. The mud nest of a Rock Nuthatch was on the rock but occupied by a Rock Sparrow.  We had great views of its striped head and yellow patch and white tip to tail.  Also a close view of a Cinereous Bunting singing (greyish breast, yellowish throat, yellow/grey head with yellow moustachial stripe and yellow eye-ring appearing brighter than in new Collins).  Only saw two in total on the holiday. There were several Black-eared Wheatears of black-throated morph which looked quite different from previous (pale-throated morphs) we had seen. There were many Cretzschmar's Buntings (rusty-brown breast with blue-grey head with rusty moustachial stripe).  They were quite tame. A Summer migrant here. Often heard Beethoven's 5th i.e. ji - ji - ji - jjuuu. Also a male Cirl Bunting, Little Owl, Jay and Blue Rock Thrush and Quail were heard. 

Near a bend with 30T sign (where there was a fire - see Richard Brooks book) we had great views of a Ruppell's Warbler ( mostly grey but black head and throat separated by white moustachial stripe). The male gave a great butterfly display in front of us - wings pressed forward and held open as it parachuted down before alighting on top of a bush.  Only one other reliable place on the island for this species. We also had a Sombre Tit (unusual here - like a large Marsh Tit with larger bib) and distant view of a Rock Nuthatch. 

Near the road junction to Sigri, a colony (the only one on the island) of Isabelline Wheatears (upright stance). Also a Common Kestrel (the only one we saw).  Here Phil was interviewed by a Greek TV company. 

On way back another view of a Sombre Tit and a close, prolonged view of an Orphean Warbler (large grey warbler with black ear-coverts, white eyes and white throat).  Also a Middle Spotted Woodpecker (dirty white face with all red cap), Turtle Dove, several Woodchat Shrikes and two Stonechats. We had a good view of a Chukar which had brighter stripes than our Red-legged x Chukar and with black throat band sharply separated from unspotted breast.  74 species were seen.

Day 3 - 21st April 2001  

Potomia Valley and Skala Polichnitos Salt Pans 

There were Little Stints outside the hotel and a Black Stork. A female Red-footed Falcon and a Black-headed Bunting were on the wires.  Also two Linnets and a Spotted Redshank in winter plumage. A Marsh Harrier and many Wood Sandpipers, Little Egrets and Common Sandpipers, and Little Ringed Plovers on East River. We had very a close prolonged view of an immaculate adult Spur-winged Plover (black head, vertical breast stripe and belly with white face and grey back with loose features). A Whiskered Tern (blackish belly with white cheek) was seen too. 

At "Derbyshire" , three Great White Egrets, Short-toed Larks and three Tawny Pipits (well defined dark square spots on median coverts).  Also Ruddy Shelduck here. 

Went past Kruper's site and looked for Masked Shrike on the sharp bend (by dairy).  Many Serins here with yellow faces and rumps.  There jingle was of constant pitch, continuous and longer than Corn Bunting. Also Spotted Flycatcher, Greenfinches and Goldfinches. 

We drove up the Potomia Valley .  We saw two immaculate Red-backed Shrikes, a Spotted Flycatcher and a Black Stork flew over.  We had good views of a Jay (race is atricapillus - with black cap), and 40 Bee-eaters flying around and brief view of 6+ Collared Pratincoles. We saw Rock Nuthatches at two places.  They were fairly common on the island - grey above, white below, black stripe through eye but no rusty buff on vent.  Also several Persian Squirrels on the rocks.  

Next we went to Inland Lake but there was too much water (although a very dry winter it rained everyday the week before and all water levels were very high - hence not many Crakes seen). We did have a distant view of a Rock Thrush (I did not see the rusty brown) and a Short-toed Eagle hovered and soared about with light coloured underwings.  Many Whinchats were here. 

To Skala Polichnitos salt pans where we saw only common waders.  A Great Crested Grebe was on the sea. The most common bird (except House Sparrow) is Crested Lark (clear, loud, separated up and down pure notes).  About 40 Yellow Wagtails with sheep near hotel.  These were mostly black-headed (feldegg) with a few blue-headed (beema rather than flava). 

In the evening we attended Richard Brooks slideshow.  We saw him several times during the week.  He seemed to be rather an odd character. 75 species were seen.

Day 4 - 22nd April 2001  

Molyvos and Mandamados (E) Cold with a strong wind blowing from the west. 

On East River we had great views of a Black Stork coming into land close by. Two Bee-eaters and a Common Snipe (took some time to be sure it was not a Great Snipe). 

North to Anaxos to look at Rabbit Island.  No Eleonora's Falcon but several Lesser Kestrels and a White Wagtail on the beach. 

East to Molyvos.  Looked for Eleonora's Falcon at the castle but it was too windy.  A Blue Rock Thrush was in the town nearby.  Thought I heard a Black Redstart but Black-Eared Wheatear has similar squeaky brief song.  Took coast road east (Eftalou to Skala Sikimmia) which eventually became a superb dirt road following the contours by the sea. Here we had a super Masked Shrike.  It regurgitated a bumble bee body casing and then took a Scarce Swallowtail which it de-winged and ate.  Also a superb male Subalpine Warbler with a white moustachial stripe. Several Tree Pipits flew over, a rather pale Lesser Whitethroat, a Long-legged Buzzard and two Common Buzzards and a Jay on a nest. 

Lunch on beach with distant Mediterranean Shearwaters.  A male Cirl Bunting flew over, landed, called, then flew again.  Heard Cretzschmar's Bunting on the way. After lunch, a drink at Skala Sikimmia (super small fishing village) where there were four first winter Little Gulls (dark W across wing).   

We moved on to Mandamados then down the Napi Valley towards Napi (at present a dirt road but not for long).  Close views of a pair of Masked Shrikes - superb.  Also several Linnets, two Turtle Doves and two Middle Spotted Woodpeckers. Then to Agia Paraske where we saw a distant Short-toed Eagle hovering with legs down.  About 12 Woodchat Shrikes were seen during the day and about 20 Black-eared Wheatears (mostly black-throated morph) and quite a few Whinchats. 

We did the East River and Salt Pans but there was nothing new, but close views of ten Short-toed Larks. 70 Species were seen.

Day 5 - 23rd April 2001  

Napi Valley, Achladeri and Potomia Valley. Still cold with strong wind blowing from the west. 

Five Red-throated Pipits were near the hotel (West River).  Well coloured breast (advised not quite in full breeding plumage) but forgot to look for white stripes on mantle. 

Up Napi Valley again but rather windy.  We saw the same pair of Masked Shrikes at same place (tree opposite piggery) - great views.  Close views of Sombre Tits and Subalpine Warbler, a Cirl Bunting and a Red-backed Shrike.  A little early for Olive-Tree Warblers. 

At one point I had a pale warbler in my bins and was trying to decide whether Common or Lesser.  Then a male Subalpine Warbler landed close by - clearly a pair.  Should have looked for white eye ring. 

To the Salt Pans where we had close views of 25 Glossy Ibises, a Marsh Harrier, Spoonbil and two Gull-billed Terns (roosting and flying).  A Peregrine (immature since brownish mantle) stooped many times at the Avocets, Black-winged Stilts and waders.  Little Terns mobbed it and eventually a Yellow-legged Gull saw it off.   There was also a Black-headed Gull in winter plumage and a few Bee-eaters about.  

Went again to Achladeri site.  Eventually after an hour had very close views (10m) of a pair of Kruper's Nuthatches prospecting for a nest site (Richard Brooks said unusually they hadn't picked one yet). Also three Pied Flycatchers, six Wood Warblers (very yellow above and white beneath).  A flock of Long-tailed Tits (one had black on the head, white below and a black bib - race tephronotus from Turkey) with a Short-toed Treecreeper.  Many Chaffinches which have much larger white wing patches.  Also several Serins and a good view of a Subalpine Warbler. 

On the way to a Scops Owl site, we had superb views of a Short-toed Eagle hunting. At Kalloni, two Scops Owls were roosting one above the other.  A superb view from 10m. We went up the Potomia Valley but only had several Woodchat Shrikes, Subalpine Warbler, three Spotted Flycatchers and singing Nightingales.    66 species were seen. 

Day 6 - 24th April 2001  

Petra (N) and Sigri (NW) 

At Petra there was a Peregrine calling from the (new) building.  An adult came in with prey and delivered it out of sight on cliffs.  Several Cory's Shearwaters were close by in Molyvos Bay and Mediterranean Shearwaters were further out.  Also a pod of Common Dolphins. 

We went to Anaxos to look at Rabbit Island.  Cory's Shearwaters were close by and Lesser Kestrels were hanging in the wind over the island.  

West to Ancient Antissa (near Skalochori?) where we took a rough road to the beach (new to Phil). Four Masked Shrikes were seen on the way down and several Woodchat Shrikes (about 20 during the day), Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Common Buzzard and Short-toed Eagle. We heard a Golden Oriole so we stopped.  By chance a Roller was close by in the top of a tree.  We were able to watch it for five minutes, terrific colour especially the blue of the underwing when it flew.  The two Golden Orioles were in nearby trees and could be seen quite well with another calling from a nearby tree.  A Hoopoe was calling. Many Tree Pipits were heard (not full song but descending clear notes?).  Also many Wood Warblers (yellow above and white below).  Then good views of an Ortolan (green - grey head with yellow moustachial stripe (Cretzschmar's Bunting which was also present has an orange stripe and greyer head) and orange breast).  In the same tree, a male Collared Flycatcher appeared. Near the beach (for lunch) we had a close view of (Western) Rock Nuthatch, Little Grebe and juvenile Linnet being fed.  Also a Blackcap the only one of the holiday. 

We forded the river where there were many birds.  A Glossy Ibis within 15m which took no notice of us and several Wood Sandpipers.  Several Common Sandpipers and also smaller waders which I did not recognise.  Phil said Curlew Sandpiper and later Sanderling which we all disagreed with.   Thin, very slightly down-curved bill, complete faintish breast band, and slow moving (but the legs looked dark and one had fast feeding action for a while).  Smaller than an adjacent Common Sandpiper.  On reflection I am sure they were Temminck's Stints (the pale legs often look dark in photos). Amongst the Yellow Wagtails, there was a Citrine Wagtail.  Slight colouring to nape but the rest of the head and face was unmarked yellow.  No black border (male) and no grey on face (female) so unsure what plumage (Phil says female).  Double broad white wing bars were clear and is an important identification point.  A male Cirl Bunting bathed close by and we had close views of a Short-toed Eagle. 

Just past Vatousa we stopped at "Grand Canyon".  There were several Crag Martins and a very blue Blue Rock Thrush.  Then a falcon overhead with long wings and flying purposefully.  Head like a Hobby (therefore light phase) but dark below.  Phil said dark phase Eleonora's Falcon rather than a Hobby.  I wish we had had a longer look. 

On to Ipsilou Monastery, very high up on a mountain, where we saw Rock Nuthatch, Blue Rock Thrush, Crag Martins, Little Owl and close views of Long-legged Buzzard.  No Woodlark seen although they breed right up here.  

At Sigri to Fanamarra Ford but only saw a Moorhen. Back via Eressos and Messotopos where we saw two Turtle Doves and a Chukar (sharp black collar). 79 species were seen.

Day 7 - 25th April 2001  

East River and Salt Pans.  

Two female Red-footed Falcons were on the wires.  Four Red-backed Shrikes, a Black-headed Bunting, several Olivaceous Warblers (noted flattened bill), a Black Stork, a Lapwing and finally a close view of Nightingale. On the quay, a tame adult Pelican, it looked huge.  Its mate was shot many years ago and now the fishermen look after it.  It flies around on to the sea and also to main square. We did not see Purple Heron (some around), Curlew Sandpiper (some flocks in summer plumage had arrived), Olive-Tree Warbler (a few days too early) and Rufous Bush Robin (about a week too early). Total trip list was 137 species. 

Also Persian Squirrel, European Pond Terrapin, Marsh Frog, Common Dolphin, Spur-thighed Tortoise, Agama Lizard, Balkan Green Lizard, Swallowtail, Scarce Swallowtail, Orange Tip, Clouded Yellow, Painted Lady. 

Leader Phil Gibson of Sarus Travel.