Hungary and Romania (Transylvania) 13th-23rd April 2002

by David Pearce 

We left Heathrow on the morning of the 13th and flew to Budapest.  The leader Bob Gomes is RSPB warden of Elmley Reserve, Kent.  Greeted by Zoltan Ecsedi our foreign leader with seven clients.     

Day 1 (13th) To Tokaj near Zemplen Forest Reserve 

We drove along the M3, which took about three hours stopping twice for Eastern Imperial Eagle in artificial nests in solitary large trees in arable fields.  There were birds on nests and flying.  They looked huge with very rectangular wings with trailing straight edges.  The wings were generally held flat or drooped as they banked. I could see yellow brown head and nape and small areas of white on shoulders.  Zoltan said they had moved out of their traditional pusta habitat.

We had a very close view from the van of a female Merlin on a post and in flight.  Also various common birds were seen including Hooded Crows, Kestrels and Hen Harrier before eventually getting to Tokaj.

Day 2 (14th) Northern Zemplen Forest Reserve 

There was an Eagle Owl on a nest in a quarry by the hotel. During the day (and all days) several White Storks were seen on nests, in villages and in fields. We had a close view of an Eastern Imperial Eagle in tree.  I noted its light head and nape and its primary feathers were a lighter colour but the white shoulder patch was not visible.  It was probably a 3rd year bird. We saw a Lesser Spotted Eagle in tree and flying with drooped wings and looking very dark.  I noted - upper wing - white patch at base of primaries, lower wing - dark but look for two light commas (difficult but definitive) and white on its uppertail coverts. Many Common Buzzards were seen during the day (and all days).  A male Marsh Harrier was seen flying close to the van.  Also Yellowhammer, Blackbird, Skylark, Song Thrush, Lapwing noted.

We went to the Telkibanya Valley in the northern Zemplen Forest Reserve and to an ancient beech (and hornbeam) wood. We had some good views of a pair of Grey-headed Woodpeckers and saw several others later.  I noted that both had a very grey head, the male with small amount of red and the female with none.  They were often calling about six mechanically sounding whistles gradually dropping in pitch (not dissimilar to Green but not so hysterical).  Their hole was an inverted pear shape.  One bird hopped backwards down the trunk. There were several Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers calling "pee-pee-pee".  We had excellent close views of one on a log at ground level. Next we saw a White-backed Woodpecker in its hole with its head protruding in response to its taped call (to try to decide which woodpecker it was).  Its back was barred (rather than a large white oval on the shoulder as in Great, Syrian, Middle) with finely streaked breast (unlike Great and Syrian).  Many trees had had bark completely stripped so the white core showed (also Black Woodpecker does this).  They must have dead wood lying about and not removed by forestry operation, hence decreasing.  Also very shy and easily disturbed at nest so we quickly moved on. We then had close views of Middle Spotted Woodpeckers.  Both male and female have a complete red crown (unlike Great, Syrian, Grey and Green - back of head only, similar to male Lesser but female - none).  They had a washed out red (salmon pink) vent and streaked breast.

Then we saw a Ural Owl in hole only 15 yards away near eye level with only its tail protruding.  The male was in trees looking at us from 50 yards away.  It was generally pale brown with an unmarked face with a yellow bill.  It flew through the trees with a long tail and stiff wings like Short-eared.

Several Great Spotted Woodpeckers were seen - the commonest woodpecker throughout the holiday. Two Tawny Owls were roosting unusually high in trees.  They were richer brown than Ural with a pale stripe on the head.  Another was heard. Also we saw two Ravens, Jays, Grey Wagtails and our only Fieldfare. Many Hawfinches were seen and many more heard, an explosive "pix!"  Often followed by soft "zrri".   Two Hen Harriers flew high over.  Three Marsh Harriers were high overhead.  A male and female (much larger) Sparrowhawk were watched soaring. A Black Woodpecker was seen at a nest site.  Its call was similar to Green, also "prrrt prrrt" and other variations. We also noted six Willow Tits and a few Marsh Tits, and a Wood Warbler (lemon yellow throat and white underparts).

Towards the forested hills of the Hernad Valley, a Golden Eagle showing some white on its upperparts, soared with raised wings (not shallow V like a Common Buzzard, but more gradual).

We had coffee and good views of a Serin (looked like streaked Siskin). Long-tailed Tits (very white head), White Wagtails, Stonechats, Pheasants and a Hobby were seen along the road.

Next we stopped at a large open area with European Sousliks (type of Ground Squirrel) near Abaujker. There was a distant Imperial Eagle, a Goshawk flying around and perching on bushes, Buzzards, a Marsh Harrier and Stock Doves. A ringtail Montagu's Harrier flew over with slim wings and narrow tail and super buoyant, tern like flight.  A Hobby flew over and chased a few birds. Also seen Northern Wheatear and Yellow Wagtail (flava).

In the village there was a Syrian Woodpecker.  Only recently it has become established in villages (the only place it is now found), perhaps driven out of the woods by expanding Great. 

Day 3 (15th) Southern Zemplen Forest Reserve

I closely watched a Syrian Woodpecker excavating a hole.  I observed the lack of a black band from nape to neck side.  Then I had a great view of an Eagle Owl in the quarry (Ten pairs in Hungary) and a Wryneck was heard.

We went to mixed beech and hornbeam woods to look for White-backed.  No luck.  I noticed that the Chaffinch song ended in "ick" which we had noticed before in Bulgaria or Slovakia perhaps copying the Great Woodpecker.   Willow Warbler and Wood Warbler were heard and seen.

46 Cranes flew by (migrating) and three Cormorants. Next we saw six Black Storks, a Lesser Spotted Eagle, an Imperial Eagle, a brief view of high White-tailed Eagle and a Cuckoo.

We heard a Wryneck and had another Lesser Spotted Eagle.  Osprey and Marsh Harrier were seen on migration. Also a Hoopoe, two Ravens, a Sparrowhawk and Stonechats.

We had lunch at café where we saw two Ravens, a Serin, a Black Redstart and two Black Storks in the distance.

Next up were two Short-toed Eagles with pale underwings, one mobbed by a Sparrowhawk.  Two Wheatears and a Black Stork flew over.  We also saw a Hoopoe, two Ravens and many Starlings plus Camberwell Beauty and a puddle with several Scarce Swallowtails.

We had another look for a White-backed Woodpecker and drumming was heard (in response to tape) close by - very deep, resonant and accelerating and seen briefly through trees.  Lesser Spotted Woodpecker was heard and there were many Nuthatches.  An early Collared Flycatcher was inspecting a hole and looking very black and white.

We looked over the flood plains in the Bodrog Valley (near Szegilong) and river but all was rather distant.  A flock of Ruff, Wood Sandpipers, two Redshanks, Pochards, Tufted Ducks, two colonies of Cormorants (300) and many Greylag Geese.  We also saw many Marsh Harriers and a Black Kite with wings held level or even drooping at ends as it turned.   An immature Greater Spotted Eagle flew over and landed in a dead tree and then later in another tree where six Marsh Harriers mobbed it.  It was much darker than Lesser, there was less white at the base of the primaries but looked to be more on the upper tail (probably the contrast with the darker plumage) and white on the vent (first summer i.e. 2 years old).   When at rest, two lines of white spots could be seen (barely with my scope but just with the best Leica).

There were also six Purple Herons in the distance, a Black Stork, 30 Great White Egrets, Coot, Nightingales, a few Snipe displaying, Lapwing and a Kingfisher was heard. 

Day 4 (16th) Journey to Romania (Transylvania)

We looked for Short-toed Lark on arable farmland. It used to be present on the Hortobagy and was thought to be an endemic race to Hungary.  Then it disappeared and this new colony was discovered.  It was rather a grey bird with (no rufous crown) like the Russian race so now thought to be this race.  Several were giving a yo-yo display above the ploughed fields and chirruping continuously.  Unfortunately I did not see them on the ground. Also two Yellow Wagtails, Skylarks and fifty Cranes migrating in distance.

We had lunch at a large reservoir near Alesd where there was a Red-throated Diver.  A bit of a surprise but it was distant and against the sun.  Also a Red-necked Grebe (rather duck-like with a short neck), several Black-necked Grebes many Great-crested Grebes and a Red-breasted Merganser. Also two male Scaup and two Tufted Ducks, a Wigeon and two Shovelers.

There were also Little Ringed Plovers, Ruff, a Greenshank, a Dunlin, a few Redshank, two Wheatears, a Marsh Harrier, two Yellow-legged Gulls, several Black-headed Gulls and Common Terns.

We had a probable Montagu's Harrier on the way, 14 Marsh Harriers, Stonechats, two Hoopoes, and a few Jays.

At the limestone Torda Gorge there were many Alpine Swifts.  A Golden Eagle was roosting in distant trees.  There were also Kestrels, Corn Buntings, Yellowhammers, Song Thrushes, Cuckoos, three Black Storks and several White Storks.

The remote village of Rimetea (about 10km from Turda) was nearby and here we stayed in the village's houses.  It was originally in Hungary, after the 2nd World War, but much of Hungary was given to Romania (in order to curb its power).    

Day 5  (17th) Rimetea

We heard a Grey-headed Woodpecker then we walked up scree slopes of the Szekelyko limestone hills opposite the village.  There were many Woodlarks - short-tailed and a bat-like song flight.  We had close views of six Rock Buntings with a call like a Reed Bunting - "tsii" (downward slurred).  Good views of two pairs of Rock Thrush (flanks of the female were very scaly).  A Great Grey Shrike was here.  Apparently when the Lesser Grey Shrikes arrive in a week's time, this is the only place in Europe where you can see both together.

Also here was a Goshawk, a Kestrel, a Tree Pipit, a Black Redstart and a female Pied Flycatcher.

We went back to the Torda Gorge.  There were five migrating Lesser Spotted Eagles - the drooped wings very noticeable.  A Golden Eagle was here too - the gradually upturned wings noticeable.  A brown immature Peregrine and a Marsh Harrier flew by.  Also Alpine Swifts and a Great Grey Shrike.

On way we saw several Wheatears, Stonechat, two Marsh Harriers, two Lesser Spotted Eagles and three Ravens.

We stopped at the old fishponds to the east beside E60 near Iernut and Sinpaul in the middle of huge plains.  There were 400 Ruff, a Black-tailed Godwit, several Spotted Redshanks (one in summer plumage), Common Sandpiper, several Greenshanks, a distant Marsh Sandpiper and several Avocets.  Many Garganeys (black through eye and pale spot at base of bill noticeable), Shoveler, Wigeon and Black-necked Grebes were here too.  

We had lunch at another, nearby, deeper lake where there were more duck including three Pintails (plus a Common Sandpiper).  There were many Black-headed Wagtails feldegg and Blue-headed Wagtails flava.  Most Jackdaws had greyish collars of the race soemmeringii.  Also a Cuckoo was here.   

We visited Dracula's house in the mediaeval town of Sighisoara and then on to our modern hotel in Odorheiu Secuiesc for two days. 

Day 6 (18th) Hargarita Mountain and Fish Ponds 

We left the hotel at 2:45am for lekking Capercaillies.  It was very dark and eventually quite thick snow (a late fall of a metre).  Two members had had triple heart bypass ops and another (secretary of the long distant walkers club) was in dire need of one.  The first birds to sing were Song Thrushes.  Although the guide heard displaying birds and we saw fresh tracks, we did not see them.  Ring Ouzel was heard and several Crested Tits seen well along with Goldcrests and overflying Tree Pipits with their thin "zeeit" call.

On way down (sometimes up to our waist in snow) a female Three-toed Woodpecker (mostly white back but some barring) was found by tape luring following a big effort by Zoltan.  Not a brilliant view but several brief sightings. A Black Woodpecker was seen flying for a few seconds, a Great Spotted Woodpecker and a Willow Tit but I did not recognise the song.

Then a Tengmalm's Owl was found by tape luring following a big effort by Zoltan.  It was a male sitting on a branch about 10-15 yards away completely unafraid.  It hooted whilst on the branch and then flew away. It is known here as the TV Owl because of square headed appearance.

Then we went down to the Forester's house for breakfast and saw two male Redstarts, two Ravens, a male Pied Flycatcher, Willow Warbler, Chiffchaff (pumps tail), Dunnock, Wood Warbler, Coal Tit, two Crossbills (very orange), Black and Green Woodpeckers heard, a Sparrowhawk flew over, Mistle Thrush and two Wheatears.

Back to hotel and a quick sleep and then south for 40 minutes to some fishponds.  We saw 400 Ruff (some in summer plumage), 20 Spotted Redshanks (some in summer plumage), 150 Wood Sandpipers ("wif-wif" call), a Green Sandpiper, ten Greenshanks, two Marsh Sandpipers (spotty but paler than Greenshank and more active and very longs legs when out of the water), a Dunlin, 40 Little Ringed Plovers and a Black-tailed Godwit in summer plumage.

Also four Purple Herons and ten Grey Herons, eight Snipe, ten Golden Plovers with 50 Lapwings.  Many White Storks were migrating and two Black Storks were seen, one feeding. Also here was a Sparrowhawk, a Hobby, three Kestrels and several Marsh Harriers, two Black-headed Gulls, 60 Yellow Wagtails (mostly flava - blue with supercilium, some superciliaris - black with supercilium, some thunbergi - blue black with no supercilium, some possibly dombrowskii - similar to superciliaris, but thought maybe to be second generation hybrid from flava and superciliaris), several Linnets, two Reed Buntings, two Stock Doves and a Cuckoo heard.

Waterbirds included seven Ferruginous Ducks (could clearly see white vent), two Little Grebes, two Gadwalls, two Moorhens, two Pochards, four Pintails, several Wigeon, Teal, Shovelers and many Garganeys.   On the way back we saw a Great Grey Shrike.   

Day 7 (19th) Limestone Gorge 

On the way to Bicazu Ardelean Gorge a Bullfinch was seen (but only by me and the only one on the trip).  At the limestone gorge, eventually a Wallcreeper showed at about 80m feeding on the cliff face in the sun.  It fluttered its wings all the time as it moved around picking out insects and spiders (presumably) and certainly small snails from crevices.  Several times it slipped and was forced to use its wings to regain height.  The black chin was not complete - essentially a white throat with black at its centre.  It was either a female or first summer male (Zoltan thought more likely the latter). A Dipper and several Grey Wagtails were seen and also a Weasel.

On the way back we had very close views of a Nutcracker from below.  It was white under the tail and vent and crossed by a black bar.  At this close distance of 50m, clearly brown with white spots and darker crown and noticed a short tail when it flew.  A Tree Pipit was nearby.

We had a picnic in the middle of a vast plain.  A pair of Lesser Spotted Eagles (one dangling prey) was nearby and another one was distant.  Also a distant Short-toed Eagle (showing light underwing and distinctive, pigeon like shape to wing but did not hover).  Zoltan said it was his first for Romania.  Also a Tree Pipit, two Ravens and two Chiffchaffs were here.

The road went through a deep working quarry where we watched a male Rock Thrush from the coach at 5m.  Its orange breast had a series of white spots.  When lorries went by, it crouched down (presumably to make itself less visible).  Also a first summer Rock Thrush nearby and a Black Redstart (very black with white panes on its wings) were seen. As were a Sparrowhawk and two Dippers with nesting material, a male Redstart and a Camberwell Beauty.

We moved on to the forested Madarasi-Hargita but no Hazel Grouse (or Capercaillie) were seen by me but others walking ahead had one fly across the road.  Later when we drove along a track we flushed one - but only heard the whirr of its wings. 

Day 8  (20th) Travelling Back from Romania 

We overruled Zoltan who wanted to make a pre-breakfast trip to the fishponds.  So we had a slightly more relaxed day than was originally planned. A male Montagu's Harrier was seen flying with a beautiful tern-like flight - very buoyant. In the village of Gheorghe Doja, we had close views of a pair of Syrian Woodpeckers and a male Goshawk passed close overhead.  We also watched a pair of Kestrels on a nest.

We stopped at the same fishpond as on Day 4.  There were many Ruff, seven Dunlins, a Little Stint, a Marsh Sandpiper (paler than Greenshank), various duck as before and a Weasel.  Nearby two Hobbies were hunting over stagnant pools and a there were a few Ravens.

We stopped for a picnic at a very similar reservoir as on Day 4 but higher up.  We saw a Red-necked Grebe (white cheeks, short neck and could just see red on neck) with many Great-crested Grebes.  Two Little Ringed Plovers were nesting; Corn Buntings, Yellowhammer, Crested Larks, Linnets, Common Whitethroat and a Sparrowhawk were all seen.

Eventually saw what we came here for.  We got super close views of an Ortolan Bunting in a bush singing the 1812 Overture.  It was very difficult to see even when close.  About 10-30 pairs are around here (but nowhere else).  Also two flava and one superciliaris Yellow Wagtails were here. About six Stonechats and a Reed Bunting were near the border at Bors.

In the Hortobagy, male Saker was seen at a nest site on an electricity pylon.  Originally Sakers bred in caves on cliffs in Zemplen but the cliffs became overgrown.  A pair attempted to breed in a crows nest on these pylons but lost young so artificial platforms were made.  All ten pairs in Hortobagy are at artificial sites and there are about 100 in Hungary in total.  At rest its primaries were significantly shorter than its tail (they are similar length in Lanner) and some barring was noted, also a pale hood with moustachial stripe.  A Hoopoe and male Black Redstart were seen.

14 Avocets, Ruff and Wood Sandpipers were on a marshy lake and there were many Marsh Harriers too.

At the Hunting Lodge between Hajduszoboszlo and Nadudvar, a Lesser Whitethroat (very white below), Wood Warblers, Blackcap, Savi's Warblers, Squacco Herons, Goldfinch, Greenfinches, and two male Nightingales (rusty red upper tail, white breast and belly) chasing each other around often passing within 2m were seen.  

Day 9 (21st) First day of Hortobagy Fish Ponds and Great Bustards 

Before breakfast a Brambling, 20 Wood Warblers, several Savi's and Great Reed Warblers, a Blackcap, a Redstart, two Pied Flycatchers were seen and the Nightingales were still chasing each other.

Then we went to various fishponds around Hortobagy Halasto.  Many Tree Sparrows and Reed Buntings were seen.  Eight Common Gulls, 20 Yellow-legged Gulls, many Black-headed Gulls, two adult Little Gulls were here. There were also 15 Whiskered Terns and 20 White-winged Black Terns amongst 140 Black Terns.

Waders included 100 Golden Plovers, 100 Ruff, 100 Wood Sandpipers, 100 Black-tailed Godwits, many Lapwings, ten Whimbrels and 30 Curlews.

There were many Savi's, Sedge and Reed Warblers and a Great Reed Warbler.  Two Cuckoos were together and there were also several Bearded Tits including a pair at 5m for ten minutes.  Also we got glimpses of Penduline Tits.

We saw many Greylags, three Mute Swans (a few over wintered five years ago and are now breeding), three Cranes and three Shelducks (the rarest bird here!). There were also many Great Crested Grebes, ten Black-necked Grebes, many Spoonbills, a Great White Egret, a Little Egret and several Night Herons. 

Several Water Rails were heard and we had a brief view of a Little Crake (lured by tape), a Moorhen and a Grass Snake (yellow blotch behind eyes - only one type here).

Next up were 20 Spotted Redshanks, 1100 Dunlins, two Little Stints, three Black-winged Stilts and two Marsh Sandpipers.

A White-tailed Eagle (first summer with little white in wedge shaped tail was seen.  A Marsh Harrier mobbing it looked very small.  In all there were 60 Marsh Harriers (ten males to every female since most females are sitting). Eight Ferruginous Ducks were seen including flying and showing white on the wing.  There was also a pair of Scaup. A few Teal, 50 Shovelers, 70 Pochards, 50 Pintails, four Wigeon and a pair of Gadwall were here too.

Three Bluethroats were seen including a brief close view showing bright blue throat with white spot.  They showed a chat-like jizz with a raised tail.

At the Akademia fish ponds there were four Pygmy Cormorants.  We also had an excellent view of a Red-necked Grebe and ten Black-necked Grebes.  A Little Egret was seen and the White-tailed Eagle showed again.

At Pusztakoca near the village of Kocsujfalu, a young Long-eared Owl was in a tree (some down but long ears visible).  A male and female Red-footed Falcon was seen here (only 30 pairs in Hungary and reducing, so there were many artificial nests in the trees).

South to the pusta landscape around Nagyivan where the local guide Gabo took us out on the short-grazed sandy plains.  Quail were heard; many Stonechats, a Whinchat (very black around eyes), Linnets, a Hoopoe, a few Wheatears, 20 Whimbrels and a few Ruff were here.

We had an excellent view of a pair of Stone Curlews (20 pairs in the area) and a Tawny Pipit at 5 m (worn median coverts, unstreaked back, pink legs).  A male Montagu's Harrier was flying around.

Ten Great Bustards including two males displaying to a female were showing.  Quite an extraordinary sight.  About 115 in this area (100,00 ha) and mostly stay here all year round.

Nearby in a drainage channel there were eight Squacco Herons and a Bittern was seen close and then flushed (two others were heard booming).  A Merlin flew by fast; a Hen Harrier on broad wings, several Marsh Harriers and a Hobby was seen. Several Wheatears, a Short-eared Owl (20 in the area), a Garganey, three Green Sandpipers, several Wood Sandpipers, Sand Martins, several Whimbrels, a good view of a Bluethroat, a Snipe drumming (when it landed the female - unseen, went "wicka-wicka").  All this in half an hour! 

Day 10 (22nd) Second Day on the Hortobagy 

Before breakfast we had several Wood Warblers, a female Brambling, a Lesser Whitethroat and a Tree Pipit flew over.

At the Hajduszobos fishponds (to the east) there were a Grey Plover, many Wood Sandpipers and Ruff, a few Redshanks, Little Ringed Plovers, an Avocet, a Dunlin and Black-winged Stilts. Four distant Temminck's Stints (like small Common Sandpipers - but not as slow moving as I have previously seen, feeding quickly but not as fast as Dunlin and Little Stint) were seen.

Then we had super views of male and female of Bluethroat on reeds and also a male following a female on to the mud.

On a nearby pond there were 12 Black-necked Grebes, 20 Ferruginous Ducks, four Tufted Ducks, several Pochards, a Moorhen and a female Bluethroat. 

At the Magdolna sewage works near Balmazujvaros, Zoltan worked hard and successfully flushed a Jack Snipe.  Several hundred Wood Sandpipers and Ruff (all colours and plumages, some displaying - a few stay to breed) were also here.  Three Red-throated Pipits were seen (mostly based on call - a fine drawn out "pssiih", higher and drawn out than Tree Pipit, I did not see the throat).  A Black-necked Grebe, a Little Grebe, Pochard, Shoveler, Ferruginous Ducks and hundreds of turtles were here. We watched a hunting Saker (brownish) being mobbed by a Hooded Crow.   

Near Bagota in mixed arable, open grassland country, we had a distant view of a soaring Long-legged Buzzard.  The nest site was in poplars.  It looked long winged and raised wings higher than Common Buzzard, but momentary droop of wings like Honey. It had a pale cinnamon upper tail.  There was also a skein of Cranes, a distant Osprey (but no kink in wings), male and female Marsh Harriers, a Hobby and a Kestrel.

At Polgar fishponds, we had super views of two Red-necked Grebes, a first summer male Goldeneye, a female Smew (late departure), a Black-necked Grebe and many Ferruginous Ducks (some males displaying). Also Pochard, Tufted Duck, Wigeon and Gadwall.  There were hundreds of Ruff, many Spotted Redshank, some Redshank, a Little Egret and Little Ringed Plover display flying and calling “piu”.

On the way to Zan Pusta (more grassland and wetlands) we saw a Little Owl on a house and two Hobbies.  We had an extraordinary close view of a Bittern in the grass.  I noted a long neck and a bright blue base of the bill (breeding plumage for a few weeks). Two others were booming.  A Merlin flew over; two Glossy Ibis, many Spotted Redshanks, Wood Sandpipers and a Black-tailed Godwit were seen.

At the Tiza River (Turtle Dove seen from coach) we looked for Barred Warbler but no luck.  We had close views of a Wryneck perched in a tree in the corner of a garden, which responded very well to tape lure.

At Kecskes near Cserepes a party of Greylag, amongst which were six Lesser White-fronted Geese and some White-fronted Geese.  The Lessers were part of the Norwegian population of 200, which winters here and was late to leave. It was fading light but I could see the larger blaze and white ring round eye and primaries longer than tail. 

Day 11 (23rd) To the Airport 

We saw the usual birds before breakfast but also female Redstart and a flying Little Bittern.

Another stop at Pusztakoca, three male and two female Red-footed Falcons were giving a superb performance chasing around down to 20m.  Two males grappled talons and fell to the ground.  Also chased two pairs of Kestrels.  There are 200 pairs in Hungary (every Rookery has some, since Red-foots push Rooks off unlike Kestrels).  Many artificial nest sites were here.

At first the fledging Long-eared Owl looked fat on a branch but then drew himself up to look thin in order to look less conspicuous.  Also a sitting adult Long-eared Owl (two pairs here) in a corvids nest at eye level.  It flew off (wings looked broader than Short-eared) but then returned to the nest.  Then a Green Woodpecker flew by and we had all 10 European Woodpeckers (my second time) at the last gasp!   

Total trip list was 202 species (plus 1 for my Bullfinch!)

21 Raptors (13 Lesser Spotted and 8 Imperial Eagles), all 10 Woodpeckers, 7 Owls.

Missed out on the Capercaillie and Hazel Grouse.

11 new birds:

Red-throated Diver, Red-necked Grebe - I really should have seen these in the UK,

Lesser White-fronted Goose, Bittern - I really should have seen these in the UK,

White-tailed Eagle, Greater Spotted Eagle,

Great Bustard,

Marsh Sandpiper,

Ural Owl, Tengmalm's Owl,

Bluethroat (only glimpsed in Slovakia) 

The day after I returned I found two ticks burrowing into my scalp.  Gill removed these with tweezers (not the thing to do).  At first doctor reluctant to give antibiotics but eventually blood and puss pouring out of my head and very high temperature persuaded him otherwise.  It cleared up after a week or two and the tests for Lyme's disease were negative, probably a secondary infection.