Extreme Birding on the Longest Day: Year 2

by Richard Tyler & Dave Pearce

Finland June 2006

Introduction

This trip to Finland was organised by Anser UK with four days guiding from Finnature Guide Matti Sillanpaa. It was an extended version of last years trip. The main purpose of the trip was to find the Finnish specialities, in particular the owls. Matti's "big five" species of owl were Great Grey, Hawk, Ural, Tengmalm's and Pygmy Owl. Hawk Owl was a bit uncertain as the young had fledged at the known site.

This was to be a two-centre break with time in the Oulu area (two nights staying at Liminganlahti visitor centre, Rantakurvi, Liminka) before travelling north to the Kuusamo area (two nights staying at Hotel Kuusamon Portii, Kajaanintie, Kuusamo) and then returning to Oulu for the last two nights, again staying at Liminganlahti before flying home. Just prior to the flight home there was also some quick birding for a couple of star birds. In the event, because it didn't get dark at all, it was extreme birding with little sleep, but at least more than last years trip. It was the longest day because from when we arrived at Stansted we didn't see darkness again until we flew back to Stansted seven days later. 

Participants

Martin McGill, Duncan Dine, Angus Moir, Steve Owen, Dave Pearce, Mike Smith, Carmel Terry, Richard Tyler, Peter Watson.

Day 1, Saturday 3rd June 2006

The Cheltenham contingent was collected by Martin at 1am. We were joined by Peter at Stansted, lifted off with Ryanair at 6am and landed at Tampere at 10:45am.  Here a slight delay with the delivery of the mini-bus allowed us our first birding. Linnets, a White Wagtail taking "road kill" insects from parked car windscreens, displaying Fieldfare and Redwings (a curious descending series of song notes), a female Redstart, Siskins, Yellowhammers, Willow Warblers and some other common birds were seen. A Honey Buzzard, mobbed by Ravens flew low over the trees. 

It was a long drive northwards towards Oulu where we would be staying at Liminka Bay. On the way we saw Whooper Swans and a few Red-necked Grebes on the many lakes and our first Common Cranes. 

Some stops on the way gave us good views of Wood Warblers, Tree Pipits, Garden Warblers, Redpolls and Common Snipe. 

We arrived at the Liminka Bay Nature Reserve area in the evening (7pm) and sorted out our accommodation at the Liminganlahti Visitor Centre. This is an excellent place with a boardwalk down through a marshy area to an observation tower overlooking the bay. This site has a most impressive bird list and is a well known stop off point for Broad-billed Sandpipers on their migration north. Also, until recently, it was the site where Yellow-breasted Buntings bred at the extreme western limit of their range. 

Some of us had a quick look over the reserve out to the bay before we all travelled for half an hour to Hotel Vihiluoto, near Oulu, for an excellent evening meal. The hotel grounds had nesting Pied Flycatchers (very common in Finland) and Redstarts. Mute Swans and Goosanders were out in the bay, roding Snipe were over the reeds and a Garden Warbler in the scrub (we heard many Garden Warblers during our week but not a single Blackcap!). 

A late evening visit to Lake Papinjarvi (Oulunsalo) was productive. A smart Red-throated Diver was loafing close in shore. The bird would submerge its head looking for fish but without diving. There were a few Red-breasted Mergansers on the lake and a lone pair of Tufted Ducks, about 20 Common Scoters all in pairs, a single female Teal and an impressive if distant Caspian Tern. More distant was a roding Woodcock over the pines at the back of the lake. A Common Sandpiper was along the lake side and some wild Greylag Geese passed by. The twenty minute drive back to our accommodation was along quiet roads/tracks through a mixture of rich habitats.  We saw our first owls of the trip Short-eared Owls and three in total. Some of the very keen members of the party had a quick walk along the board walks at Liminganlahti before retiring to bed at 2am.

Day 2, Sunday 4th June 2006

A beautiful morning and an early walk along the board walk to the observation tower and bay allowed us to admire a full adult male Common Rosefinch with a superb resonating song. Garganey, Common Cranes, Reed Buntings, Sedge Warblers and Little Gulls were also present. Some of the Jackdaws seen during the week had the pale collar of the someringii race.  A Bittern was booming nearby and six Smew were out in the bay. 

After breakfast we visited the small village of Varjakka on Liminka bay. The bay itself held an impressive raft of Goldeneye, Red-breasted Mergansers, Shelduck, Smew, Common and Arctic Terns. A walk through the village produced a migrant Wheatear and the adjacent mixed woodland (birch and conifers) was most enjoyable.  Pied and Spotted Flycatchers, Redstarts and Bullfinches (Northern race) were present as were three beautiful Waxwings perched on top of a birch and first located by their call. A Great Spotted Woodpecker gave some interesting viewing as it collected either ants or their larvae from a huge wood ant pile before quietly disappearing into the forest to feed its young. A calling Wryneck eventually gave itself up and a calling male Black Woodpecker responded well to a tape. It flew straight towards us with its flapping flight and splayed primaries and then drummed and called from a telegraph post (see pic left). There was no mistaking we were in its territory and it was letting us know in no uncertain terms. Angus located a Three-toed Woodpecker, also on a telegraph post, but it disappeared into the forest before the rest of us could catch a glimpse. A Lesser Whitethroat was seen at this site as was the first of very few Robins during the week.  

Our next stop was Lintujarvi, Hirvineva. This area of lakes, wetlands and forest was great for wildlife and we were to visit this site several times. We saw Marsh Harriers, a female Hen Harrier and an Osprey. Waders included Greenshank, Wood Sandpipers and Common Sandpipers. Greylag Geese were seen with young and there were common duck species as well as a pair of Garganey with a chick. Great Crested Grebes were nesting and a Reed Bunting nest with chicks was found close to the observation tower. A single migrating Barnacle Goose flew over. Sedge Warblers were singing from the reeds and a few Common Terns, Little Gulls and Sand Martins were over the lake. There was also entomological interest at this site. Three species of dragonfly provided good photographic opportunities as clouds appeared and the temperature dropped (Four-spotted Chaser, Black Darter and Downy Emerald). A well marked Pebble Hook-tip moth was interesting and the first Camberwell Beauty (one of three) of the trip was seen.  

We next visited Pyykho Jarvi. There were approximately 1700 Little Gulls over this lake. A very impressive sight indeed! There were also four Goosanders, Sand Martins and many Artic terns. A pair of Little Ringed Plovers were very busy on the beach where we stood. 

We next visited to a delightful tip near the oil terminal at Oulu. Actually a most unpromising looking place. A tape of a Terek Sandpiper was played and before anyone had their cameras ready it was right in front of us and gave a wonderful display. It hung in the wind with its neck stretched up to peer at us with its wings held low whilst calling. Nearby there were Arctic Terns nesting, a Ringed Plover, a Redstart and Common Rosefinches were singing. 

Back at the Observatory a pair of well marked Whinchats were busy, an Ortolan sang (see pic left) and almost the only Stock Doves seen, fed nearby. Six Spotted Redshanks and a Greenshank flew over together. A walk towards the sea gave us close views of a pair Common Rosefinches and several displaying Ruff. Redshanks, Black-tailed Godwits, Pintails, a Grey Heron and several Marsh Harriers were also watched. A Cuckoo was seen, a distant White-tailed Eagle and a Short-eared Owl and a booming Bittern heard. At some point we had an excellent meal at the nearby hotel Vihiluoto where we met our Finnature Guide Matti Sillanpaa. Matti proved to be an excellent leader despite this being only his second time. Being an English teacher his English was excellent (probably better than some of ours) and he had a great sense of humour and worked hard to show us the specialities. Matti was going to guide us from the following morning. 

We left the hotel and visited a large area of reed beds on the coast at Riutunkan. Here we saw several Little Gulls and Martin saw our only Little Tern of the trip. The reed beds were impressive but the birds were quiet. We saw Willow Warblers, Reed Buntings, some Common Cranes and heard a booming Bittern.   

We then drove back to Liminganlahti along the same route as the previous evening. We found a very smart male Hen Harrier, Short-eared Owl, a pair of Black-tailed Godwits on territory with young, one was perched on a hay rack. We also saw Brown Hares and our first Moose (Elk) of the trip (during the week we saw at least 15 of these impressive animals and unlike most of the reindeer we encountered further north these were wild). We got to bed at some point that “night“ for a brief period of sleep.  

Day 3, Monday 5th June 2006

We were up early for breakfast before being met by Matti. He took us back to the Hirvineva area and to a potential Hawk Owl site.  A pair had bred in a Goldeneye nest box but the young had recently fledged so there was no guarantee that we were going to see the birds as they now could have moved some distance away. We waited at the site listening to a Lesser Whitethroat and a Sedge Warbler making impressive imitations of a Greenshank. We watched Goldeneye with many ducklings and also saw a female Teal with her brood.  Well, a Hawk Owl was there all the time – Duncan’s extra height enabled him to spot an adult sitting on top of a nearby fir tree. We then heard and saw two young (a third was calling further in the forest). We then spent an hour or so watching these super owls.  Angus photographed the young from about 10 metres and the adult looked on unperturbed. The other adult was seen flying and perching in a nearby tree. All in all a magnificent sight and we all felt privileged to be there and many photographs were taken. Pics of adults and juvs below.

   

   

We then went back to the observation tower at Hirvineva where we had been the previous day. We were pleased to find a Rough-legged Buzzard which was breeding in the area. The white rump was not obvious although the tail looked white from below and the wings appeared narrower and longer than a Common Buzzard. We watched the bird hovering on several occasions. 

Next we went to the Great Grey Owl site at Ruuki. First we stopped by a pair of Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers at their nest hole.  This guaranteed we would be impressed by the size of the Great Grey Owl! The female looked huge sitting on a massive nest with three young (pic below). Some of the more courageous of us went up a rickety ladder to a hide overlooking the nest. Meanwhile, the adult looked on with distain at all this activity. It was clearly very used to having hordes around it. The young squealed and shifted about in the nest. This was the second year in an old Goshawks nest. A Ural Owl which had taken up residence was enticed away by putting up a box 40m away and then the Great Grey Owl moved in.

    

We then walked through the forest a little way and there the male Great Grey Owl was spotted on a tree stump just four feet off the ground. This was much photographed and was a fantastic sight. To see such a magnificent bird, at such close quarters and in its forest habitat inspired awe and respect. As we left the owl it flew approximately 50 metres and onto another stump. Pics below.

   

Nearby was a Three-toed Woodpeckers nest hole just 2.5 metres off the ground. Initially the female was inside, then it came out and the male entered while we were standing by less than 5m away. Extraordinary that the birds acted so normally! Pic below.

Next we went to an Ural Owl site. The female was in the nest box and we all saw various parts of her face but nothing else.  She was able to eye us through a crack in the box but was going to stay put. We waited for an hour or so hoping that the male would return but all remained quiet.  A Hen Harrier flew by and Martin found an Adder. Having left this site we then drove north-east to Kuusamo close to the Russian border.

On the way, as we approached the Hotel Kuusamon Portii, we had a flyover of two Black Grouse. Our first Reindeer were also seen en route. We arrived at the hotel at about 19.00 and had an evening meal an hour later. Woodcock were seen from the hotel and a Cuckoo was heard. The hotel was by a lake with birch and mixed forest and bogs stretching away in all directions – excellent. 

Day 4, Tuesday 6th June 2006

After a short sleep and at 3am in the morning we set off for some serious birding. It was very cold - about a degree above freezing and a cold wind. 

We stopped at Ousamo Jarvi south of Kuusamo to listen for buntings and Martin quickly found a super singing Little Bunting next to the road. A second bird was singing in the distance. Crossbills and Bullfinches were also seen as were a couple of Black-throated Divers, Red-necked Grebe and four Common Cranes. We heard the yodelling song of a Wood Sandpiper, common in Finland. Other bird songs which became familiar to us on this trip were the buzzing of Bramblings and the Redwing's short verses.  

Near Valtavaara we stopped and an aggressive and impressive male Willow Grouse flew in over the van and landed close by in response to our tape. 

We visited two Black Grouse leks and had distant views of six males and a female as we approached. However, as we got out of the van they flew up into some trees and so were remained fairly distant. At the next site we watched quietly from the minivan and had good views of a male and three females. We saw several Arctic Hares with their blue-grey summer coats and large white snowshoe feet.   

Then we were off to the hills of Valtavaara. On the way we had superb close views of a Black-throated Diver on a small lake and a Rough-legged Buzzard.  We parked by a feeding station and had very close views of Northern Bullfinches, a Northern Willow Tit, Bramblings and Siskins. There were also Red Squirrels and three very confiding Siberian Jays. We climbed on to the Valtavaara ridge with its ancient pine forest rich in moss and lichen. Redstarts were in the forest as were Bramblings. The whistles of Hazelhens were heard many times and close by, but only a few members of the party got decent views. Most of us had brief glimpses as they disappeared into the forest. We all had excellent views of two Siberian Jays, they were confiding and made some quite comical noises. It was getting late for this species and we were not certain to see them so we were very lucky (pic left). On the other hand we were early for Red-flanked Bluetail. One was heard and responded to our tape and was seen by a few of us as it sang briefly from the top of a tall pine before flying across to the other side of the ridge. It was a first year male with no obvious blue colouration. Black Woodpecker was also heard from the ridge.     

Having left Valtavaara we headed back to our hotel at Kuusamon Portii arriving in the afternoon for a meal and a rest before leaving the hotel in the evening at around 9pm for an all night birdwatching session.  

Day 5, Wednesday 7th June 2006

We left our hotel late on the evening of the 6th and headed off to a Tengmalm's Owl nest site. The owl peering out of its box at us was quite comical and much admired by all.   

We then visited a Siberian Tit’s nest in a natural hole. Matti thought, quite correctly, that we would prefer this to an artificial site.  However, despite much scratching and stroking of the trunk adjacent to the hole by several members of the party, the bird refused to appear. Conversation at this point, instigated by Duncan, cannot go into print!  We then went off to see one nesting in a box and had good views as it came to the hole.  It was 1am and the light was good enough for photography. 

 

While driving about we had an atmospheric view of a Whimbrel in a tree, and four Black-throated Divers and a Red-necked Grebe – all asleep.  We also saw a female Velvet Scoter.

At around 2am the sun went down and then immediately rose again! 

Back in the Valtavaara region we went to Iivaara. We walked over a wooden bridge over a river and up into the pine clad hillside. We heard a Red-flanked Bluetail's song and we all got good views of a second year calendar male. The bird sang beautifully in the early morning sun from the top of a tall spruce. It was 4am! Just when the digiscope was setup on the mossy slopes and the button about to be pressed then it was on to its next song perch. It was difficult to get a satisfactory photo but the nimble Martin got a great shot which can be seen on the www.anserbirding.com site. Pic below.

Some of us went back down to the bridge. We heard Willow Grouse and glimpsed a bunting which eventually appeared out of the low vegetation. It was a stunning male Rustic Bunting (pic below). The bird had disappeared by the time the others returned from the hillside but after trekking through some bogs and back to the bridge we all got great views.    

At this point we went on a twitch for an early Arctic Warbler but to no avail. The bird was not hanging around. We returned to Kuusamon Portii at 1pm after our most successful night’s foray. Following lunch some of us rested while others took walks in the forest. By the hotel. Redstarts were in evidence as were Mealy Redpolls and Redwings. Some of us heard or glimpsed disappearing Hazelhens. Angus did very well managing to find and photograph a pair of these secretive birds on the ground. About fifty Green Hairstreaks and some Holly Blues were in the woodland rides. 

We left the hotel at 4pm and after being in such attractive countryside we next went to have a look at Kuusamo tip. It was not very attractive but held the delights of a few Heuglin's Gulls (Siberian Gull) among some Baltic (Lesser Black-backed) Gulls.  The Heuglin's had mid grey backs with darker outer primaries and were seen at rest and in flight. Meanwhile an immature White-tailed Eagle surveyed the scene from the top of a tree. The bird dwarfed two Magpies which were mobbing it, one of these corvids even having the audacity to tug on the eagle’s tail (pic left). Having left the tip we set off back to Oulu. 

Back in the Oulu region we visited a Pygmy Owl nest box. The female left the box but then returned. The male flew in to a nearby tree and was immediately mobbed by a pair of Crested Tits, Siskins and a Treecreeper (but one had to be quick to identify all these!). The male then sat out on branch and stared down at us giving us a prolonged opportunity for photographs.  A small bird but what an attitude!  Pics below.

   

We arrived back at the observatory at Liminka bay late evening and had our evening meal back at Vihiluoto. We decided we needed a bit more birding! We saw an adult White-tailed Eagle, several Spotted Redshanks, some great views of Short-eared Owls. Steve heard the brief call of a Corncrake which was then heard by a few others. We were, however, unsuccessful in tracking down a Thrush Nightingale. 

Day 6, Thursday 8th June 2006

Off we went at midnight to a tip in Oulu to look for an Eagle Owl which would visit at times taking rats. Duncan drove so that our leader could rest and we were only on the wrong side of the road once. The owl was not seen but a fine second year Glaucous Gull was there, along with a couple of Oystercatchers. Our only Collared Dove was seen on the way. 

Back at the observatory at 2am some of us went with Matti along the boardwalk to listen for Jack Snipe. We listened to his tape but did not hear any live "galloping" over the marshes. We retired to bed all being desperate for some sleep. 

Next morning before breakfast the Ortolan was still singing and a distant Rough-legged Buzzard hovered and showed its white tail very well. 

A Red-breasted Flycatcher at the northerly limit of its range was singing loudly in woodland at Liminka sewage works but proved very difficult to see. The brief views that some of us did manage showed it to be a full adult male. Two pairs of Smew and a female Garganey was closely scrutinised so we would recognise it more easily in Gloucestershire. We also saw Goosander, Spotted Redshanks and more Whooper Swans. Some butterflies were in evidence and of particular note were a couple Northern Chequered Skippers. 

We left this site and at a fuel stop some of us were starting to feel the pace. We had a kick start with a Finnish drink called Battery! It is like a more powerful equivalent of our Red Bull but tastes even worse! 

We then went to a Ural Owl nestbox site in woodland somewhere on Liminka bay. The owl was known to be very fierce and Matti made sure we remained as a group and no one was allowed to stray. Apparently, accidents have occurred with this species attacking people but no luck here – that is the bird remained unseen. The young had fledged and moved further into the forest. On leaving this site we saw yet another Short-eared Owl and Northern Wheatear. 

We next visited a site on Liminka bay where Ruff were lekking. We saw six males and one female. The males were quite a spectacle.  This site also had nesting Curlews and Lapwings. Arctic Terns were also nesting and there were a pair of dark phase Arctic Skuas out on the shoreline. We had a flyover Yellow Wagtail and Marsh Harriers were quartering the reed beds. We saw a few waders here including our only Turnstones of the trip. 

Some of us had still not seen a Hazelhen other than vague movements in the undergrowth so we went to a known site but no luck again.  As had been demonstrated at Kuusamo, this activity is best undertaken stealthily on ones own. Oh dear! As Duncan was crashing through the undergrowth jumping across ditches a look of anguish came across his face and he was limping very badly. He said a branch had sprung up from the ground a smacked across the back of the calf. This is a classic description of a ruptured tendon. He could walk no more. On a brighter note as we will see, all the remaining star birds were seen from by the van so Duncan missed nothing so we must think of him being lucky rather than unlucky! 

We went back to the first Ural Owl site in the Hirvineva area and as we got out of the van the observant Angus pointed it out sitting in a tree at the edge of the wood. Although it was distant it provided some reasonable photographs for the digiscopers amongst us.  Another impressive owl, large and powerful with dark eyes.   

After our excellent evening meal at our usual hotel we all said our goodbyes to Matti. We had all enjoyed his company and enthusiasm.  We visited another site along Liminka bay. Again no Thrush Nightingale but a booming Bittern, a large group of Cranes (29), Marsh Harriers, Short-eared Owl, Sparrowhawk and more Moose.  Back at the observatory we heard the male Garganey's rattling display call. 

Day 7  Friday 9th June 2006

Our last day and our first stop was back to Liminka sewage works to try again for the Red-breasted Flycatcher but it proved elusive. Eight Spotted Redshanks flew over and a female Goldeneye swam about with many ducklings. 

We then went back to Hirvineva where a slightly different looking raptor flew with Marsh Harriers as we arrived. Richard immediately identified it from within the van as a Black Kite. This was a star bird at the limit of its northern range. Nearby a Sparrowhawk and a stunning male Hen Harrier were also seen from the van. We also saw a female Garganey with her brood. 

We then left the Oulu region for our long drive south to Tampere. We stopped for a couple of breaks on route seeing the usual Whooper Swans and the occasional Red-necked Grebe. On one lake between Jyvaskyla and Tampere we had a group of nine beautiful Black-throated Divers all together. Pic below.

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While driving, Mike in the front of the van commented that a Green Woodpecker had flown across the road. But they do not occur in Finland so this must have been a Grey-headed Woodpecker! 

Martin had arranged to meet a local birdwatcher in Tampere for some local interest. He took us five minutes away to some unpromising looking scrub near a main road and by houses. We had hardly got out of the van and a pair of Blyth’s Reed Warblers were seen chasing about with the male singing a most distinctive loud series of extraordinary notes. It chased the female and then there was a quiet spell with them together hidden in the undergrowth a few metres away. Our guide was sure they were copulating. Another probable male appeared and more interactions took place. There were about nine pairs of Blyth’s Reed Warblers in that area and they were just arriving.  

We did not have time to check out a River Warbler but were taken to a nearby Thrush Nightingale site. Although we did not hear one there were several Corncrakes calling and we had two fantastic views of one flying low over a field in front of us, by the van and across the road. We tipped our man from Tampere who was pleased if embarrassed. All of us were really chuffed to end the trip with such good birds.    

The final bird was a Whinchat at the airport where we took off just before 11pm arriving back at Stansted at midnight. The drive home by Martin went well, arriving back at Cheltenham at about 3am. We would all like to thank Martin for his hard work, superb birding skills and for an excellent trip with many highlights. About 156 species were seen and Duncan’s leg did eventually mend but it took many weeks. 

Throughout the report are some photographs by Richard and Dave and Mike.   

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