Visit to Bulgaria from May 14^th to 28^th 2000

by Dave Pearce

We arrived at Sofia from Heathrow mid afternoon and met the rest of the group.  We were looked after by Carl Nicholson (ex RSPB), Petar Iankov (top birder in Bulgaria I should think), Alex (the interpreter who provided information on towns etc) and Michail (the driver).

We stopped briefly by some extensive fields (with forest beyond) in a conservation area (but illegal building going on) within the Sofia city boundary and surrounded by roads.  Several Corncrakes were calling and many Corn Buntings singing.  Corncrakes breed here, then, when the hay is cut, move higher up the hillside to breed again (information proved by transmitters attached to birds and paid for by the RSPB). 

We stayed at a skiing hotel, to the south of the city, at about 1000m up the mountainside. 

I walked above the hotel before breakfast and saw about five Nutcrackers (spots not as obvious as in guides – white tip to tail and Jay like flight).  Also Ring Ouzels gathering food for young within 5m of me (it is not like this on Cleeve Hill!). The song was two fluting whistles (guide says 2-4) similar to a Blackbird. Also seen were Robins, Crossbills, Common Buzzards, Crag Martins (white in tail very clear), House Martins, Pallid Swifts, Grey Wagtails, Wrens, Chaffinches, Coal and Willow Tits, Dunnocks, White Wagtails, Chiffchaffs, Cuckoos, Yellowhammers, Black Redstarts, Blackbirds, Song Thrushes and a brief view of a Black Woodpecker (I heard meow Herring Gull like call). 

Then on to Sofia to change money, buy lunch, and to see the Cathedral (briefly thank the Lord).  Here we saw six Alpine Swifts fly over, Swifts, Collared Doves, Starlings, Greenfinches, Hooded Crows. 

Then we had an all day drive, east to Burgas (on the Black Sea coast) via Karlovo, Kazanlak and Sliven.  We stopped by a pond (three prostitutes hanging about here) where there was a colony of thirty Night Herons.  We had a glimpse of a male Little Bittern, and also saw Nightingales, Great Reed Warblers, Tree and House Sparrows, White Stork, Magpie.  Also many Red-backed Shrikes and one Lesser Spotted Eagle with its distinctive droop to the wings. 

We stopped for lunch on a high bridge looking down on Red-rumped Swallows (they stood out from the House Martins having a dirty rather than bright white rump).  There has been an expansion from the south into Bulgaria in the last decade. 

We had good views of several Long-legged Buzzard (brown on underwing and tail, light coloured head and upper tail).  Also two Sparrowhawks, Golden Orioles, Ravens, Pallid Swifts, Bee-eaters and two Honey Buzzards flying together.  One Imperial Eagle (white scapular patches and leading edge to wing, long narrow rectangular wings) was seen well.  

During the drive the following were seen; six Kestrels, ten Crag Martins, two Jays, six Goldfinches, two Rollers, two Linnets, a Montagu's Harrier (female), one Stone Curlew, two Wood Pigeons (scarce in Bulgaria), thirty Turtle Doves, one Red-footed Falcon with a Roller, fifteen Common Buzzards, one Hoopoe, a distant Black-headed Bunting, “Black-headed” (Yellow) Wagtails, Crested Lark, and two Skylarks. A pair of Isabelline Wheatear (a pale washed out wheatear with long legs and upright stance) were near to the road. 

We drove to a quarry (wrong one as we discovered later) for Eagle Owls.  Good views of Black-eared Wheatears (eastern race melanoleuca very pale on head and back, black-throated morph which is common in east) and many Northern Wheatears together with a Lesser Grey Shrike and two Rock Thrushes displaying over quarry.  

Also seen on the way were many Corn Buntings, Grey Wagtails, Blackcaps, one Little Owl, Spanish Sparrows, Grey Herons and as we entered Burgas, one hundred Pygmy Cormorants flew over with very fast wing beats and proportionally shorter necked and longer tailed than Great (there are 10,000 here in winter).    

Before breakfast we walked around Burgas park. Here we logged Cetti’s Warbler, Golden Oriole, a Nightingale singing in the open, Blackcap, Great Tit, Greenfinch and Jackdaws (race soemmeringii which has white fringe to grey nape) and Olivaceous Warbler (scratchy fast long song, repeating fairly long phrases).  

A salt (or fish ponds) pans just north of Burgas where we saw twenty Curlew Sandpipers (distinctive up and down bill action), ten Little Stints, one White-winged Black Tern, one hundred Avocets, twenty Black-winged Stilts, Great Reed Warblers, two male Garganeys, two Redshanks, one Kentish Plover and a Magpie.  We also looked for Slender-billed Gulls (a few here) but no luck. 

We stopped by an airfield where we saw twenty Collared Pratincoles, including two with darker uniform upperwings with no black tips to wing and also no white on trailing edge and no red underwing, although difficult to see.  These were Black-winged Pratincoles. 

A Honey Buzzard (I saw three bands on the tail, smaller head and level or drooped wings) flew by and also a male, female and migrating juvenile (with no dark underwing) Marsh Harriers.  Also seen were a Tawny Pipit (large upright, light coloured and unstreaked below) and many Yellow Wagtails all of which were Black-headed Motacilla flava feldegg (with no white throat).  Also logged were Bee-eaters, Spoonbills and two hundred White Pelicans in a thermal on migration north.  There were many Mute Swans which are new to Bulgaria over the last 20 years. 

A super view of a Lesser Grey Shrike (black band across forehead and pink flush to breast). Over the Lake were two Gull Billed Terns (only two pairs breeding here), White-winged Black Terns, Whiskered Terns, Little Terns, Common and a few Black Terns, Common Sandpipers, Sedge and Cetti’s Warblers, Spanish Sparrows and a female Red-footed Falcon on electricity wires.  

There were also Night Herons, several Squacco Herons (very white in flight but brownish at rest), twenty five Little Egrets together with two Glossy Ibises. We had close views of a Wood Sandpiper (plus a flock flying), Little Stints (juveniles with white lines down mantle), three Spotted Redshanks, several Ruff (mostly in summer plumage), two pairs of Gadwall, eight Garganey, Shelducks, Bearded and Penduline Tits, several Cuckoos, Reed Buntings, Sand Martins and a Short-toed Eagle.  

Stop 4 Lunch high up looking over Mandra Lake

There were many Whiskered (and a few Black) Terns on migration over the Lake, also Pochards, distant White Pelicans, two Purple and several Grey Herons, Moorhens, Coot, Ruff, Common Whitethroat, Nightingales singing, Pygmy and Great Cormorants. 

Here there were two male Ferruginous Ducks (male and female are very similar but male has white eye, female dark), one Little Grebe, Hooded Crows, Jackdaws, two Squacco Herons and Black–headed Buntings. 

Many Bee-eaters here and two Ruddy Shelducks. 

Stop 7 Poda Reserve (bought by Bulgarian Society for the Protection of Birds)

A nice marsh with twenty Sandwich Terns, two Gull-billed Terns, Little Terns, Black-headed Gulls, Little Bitterns, Great Crested and Little Grebes, Moorhens, Mallard, Pochard, two Oystercatchers, Lapwing, Reed Warblers, Crested Larks, Tree Sparrows and on the old pylons many Great and a few Pygmy Cormorants.   

Day 4 - May 17th - Ropotamo  

Here we saw six Great Crested Grebes, a Mute Swan, Tawny Pipits, Red Backed Shrikes, Marsh Harriers, White and Black-headed Wagtails. two pairs of Lesser Spotted Eagles displaying by flapping to gain height then closing wings and plummeting, repeating this many times. On the seaward side there were many Little Ringed Plovers along the beach and a few Sandwich and Common Terns. 

Stop 9 Ropotamo Reserve (part of Naroden Park)

Arkutino Marsh had a boardwalk across a pond and there was the deafening sound of two species of marsh frogs displaying on the surface.  A long thin snake swam along causing them to dive, and there was also a “water vole” nibbling reeds. Two Black Storks circled together and a Song Thrush, two Honey Buzzards (drooped wings for a second when turning, also characteristic flick which I have not seen with Common) and Hawfinches were seen. 

Stop 10a Lunch by Ropotamo River

A Hawfinch flew by, another Honey Buzzard, Nuthatch calling, Blue and Great Tits and a  Blackbird. Two of us heard a probable River Warbler ("sewing machine", slightly pulsating reel).  Unfortunately Petar did not hear but they have been reported from here.  

Male and female Semi-collared Flycatchers at their nest were eventually found.  These had white outer tail feathers continuous to tip, unlike Pied Flycatcher (this also separates them from Pied x Collared hybrid).  

Also nearby was a male and female Middle Spotted Woodpecker at their nest.  They were smaller than a Great Woodpecker with dirty white cheeks, streaks on flanks, crimson crown (with no black forehead) and a salmon pink vent. 

Stop 10b High over River

We looked out for White-tailed Eagles but no luck.  However, a large wild boar and Red Deer were seen, together with Pygmy Cormorants on posts in the river, three Purple Herons, Wood Pigeons, Jays, Black Storks, Long Legged Buzzards, Honey Buzzards, Sand Martins, Hoopoes calling, Cuckoos and a Green Woodpecker.  

Slightly further along road we had great views of Golden Oriole (male and female) high up in dead tree and chasing Starlings.  Also two Cirl Buntings, a Lesser Spotted Eagle displaying, Common Buzzards, many Turtle Doves, one hundred Bee-eaters attended by two Hobbies, Kestrels, a Red-footed Falcon and a probable Imperial Eagle.  

Super views of a Black-headed Bunting (yellow body with reddish brown collar across breast, black head), together with, Goldfinches, six Spanish Sparrows, a female Ortolan, a pair of Lesser Grey Shrikes, Marsh Warblers (mixture of many songs), one Little Ringed Plover and an Olive Tree Warbler was heard singing slow and low.  Amazingly, Red-backed Shrikes are one of the commonest birds here!     

Day 5 - May 18th - To Cape Emine (Emona) 

We first drove to Karnobat for a second attempt to see the Eagle Owl (we went to the wrong quarry on Day 2).  On the way, seventy White Pelicans circled overhead with a single Dalmation Pelican amongst them (easy to spot since there was no black on the underwing).  At the same time we saw two Night Herons, a Black-headed Wagtail, a Roller, Marsh Harrier, a Purple Heron, Little Egrets, Great Reed Warblers and a Reed Bunting.  Nearby we also saw a Jay, a Rook, and a Syrian Woodpecker.  This is fairly typical of a random stop of twenty minutes in the middle of nowhere! 

On the quarry face there were two young Eagle Owls and one adult but they were all surprisingly difficult to see.

Also seen were a Hobby, Black Kite, Little Ring Plovers, Bee-eaters, Northern Wheatears, Hoopoes, Yellow-headed Buntings, Crested Larks, Woodchat Shrikes, Lesser Grey Shrikes, Reed Buntings and a Tawny Pipit.

Immediately on arrival we had a Steppe Buzzard fly by which is the race vulpinus of the Common Buzzard.  It had a pale rufous tail without a terminal black band, but without the pale head of a Long-legged Buzzard. 

Many Woodchat Shrikes were seen and a Lesser Grey Shrike, a male Rock Bunting (rusty brown body with black head stripes – usually in mountains rather than by the sea), two Sandwich Terns, Lesser Black-backed Gulls, a Hobby, a Honey Buzzard and many Turtle Doves. 

Two Hawfinches were seen well, together with a Lesser Whitethroat, Blackcaps, Black-headed Buntings and a Blackbird.  We heard (and saw two) many Quail and a few Wryneck, one Cirl Bunting, an Ortolan singing (1812 Overture – Durr Durr Durr Daa) and six Spanish Sparrows with very black throats and breasts.

A group of Yellow-legged Gulls flew by below us and with them was a white winged gull.  It was the same size, slightly buff colour due to mottling on upper wing.  There were no specific markings on the tail.  Only myself and Petar saw it but we had several minutes at close range during which we discussed it.  We considered albino Gull but dismissed this and decided it could only be a first - or second- summer Iceland Gull.  I had seen one recently on the south coast and one several times at Sharpness.  Petar asked me to write a description which I did.  [Subsequently I saw in the European Bird Report that this had been accepted as the first record for Bulgaria.]  

We were looking for the “odd” Finsch’s Wheatear which has been seen yearly here (but might be hybrid Pied x Black-eared) when I thought I saw it.  After closer inspection it turned out to be a Pied Wheatear.  The white head is cut off at nape whereas the Finsch’s goes to a V with the bird at rest (there is no black on the mantle as a Finsch’s flies).

There were several Barred Warbler here.  They have a scratchy (Common Whitethroat like) song with a display flight from near the top of a tree or bush rising vertically then returning.  However, they were very restless and difficult to see within the foliage.

We also heard several Olive-tree Warblers (similar to a slow Great Reed Warbler – very distinctive) and these were also very difficult to see, but I was left with an impression of a large grey warbler (male), with a brown tinge (female).

Here we saw three Black-winged Stilts, twelve Avocets, 400+ Curlew Sandpipers and 350+ Little Stints (some in full summer plumage), ten Ruff, eight Squacco Herons and two Lapwings. 

Before breakfast we went down to the marsh to see a Mediterranean Gull and Dunlin which Petar had spotted the previous evening but the footbridge had been taken down in the meanwhile!  However, we had good views of a Savi’s Warbler (Grasshopper Warbler like song but shorter and stronger which did not start abruptly but quickly increased in volume).  It had a large round and thick tail.  Also nearby was a Marsh Warbler, Reed and Great Reed Warblers, Cetti’s, Night Herons, Spoonbills, twenty Black-winged Stilts and 100 Avocets. 

During the drive we stopped for a pale phase Booted Eagle which was overhead and had close views and the “landing lights” were easily seen.  Later on two more Booted Eagles and a Lesser Spotted Eagle were seen. 

Stop 14

We stopped for another Booted Eagle and then explored a fairly wooded (small bushes and trees within well separated larger trees) region beside road.  Six Olive-tree Warblers were singing their low, slow grating song and eventually we had a good sightings (but we had to work at it since they were very restless within foliage).  They had a whitish panel but little else to say except a large warbler. 

After much searching we eventually had very close views of Masked Shrikes (male and female) in the wood.  They are a very attractive black and white bird with reddish brown flanks and a new bird for Bulgaria in 1962, expanding from Greece.  Now Bulgaria has a few pairs in loose colonies in three different habits.

We also saw a Stonechat (Siberian/Eastern maura - possibly a separate species from rubicola) with no colour on flanks and larger white shoulder patches, a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (kee-kee-kee) and Wryneck (kew-kew-kew slightly slower less high pitched than Lesser) were heard, several Golden Oriole, two Hawfinches, Ortolans and Olivaceous Warblers.

Lunch stop

Here we had two Lesser Grey Shrikes, two Kestrels, several Woodchat Shrikes, two Black Kites, Bee-eaters, two Common Buzzards, a Honey Buzzard, Skylarks, a Black Stork, Mistle Thrush, many Cuckoos, two Hoopoes and many Golden Orioles were heard.  Also seen were several Woodlark flying up like Skylark but with slower wing beats, looking bat like and making fluty calls. 

Stop 15 Vulture Centre

After a search two Bonelli’s Warblers with a call like a House Sparrow (eastern race), otherwise like a Chiffchaff with lighter underparts, were found.  Also seen was a Short-toed Eagle, three Cuckoos chasing each other, and a Barred Warbler was heard. At the centre, two Red-rumped Swallows had built nests, entered via a longish tunnel with narrow neck

On a distant rock face there were three Egyptian and four Griffon Vultures and many Crag Martins.  A Black Stork flew into a large cave where there was a nest and we watched the changeover.

On the way to the hotel at Kurdjali/Kardzali, we saw a Little Owl, a dead Nightjar on road and a colony of Isabelline Wheatears.

Day 7 - May 20th - Vulture feeding station 

Stop 16

We had a good view of a Chukar Partridge and also ten Goldfinches, Jays, Linnets, Magpie and a Red-rumped Swallow nest (with tunnel entrance) under a rock ledge.

Stop 17 Vulture Feeding Station

Here we viewed two Egyptian, forty six Griffon and three Black Vultures.  The latter had a flatter wing profile with wing tips turned up and when reducing height, they lowered wings to 45 degrees and raised their tails.  They did not come to the provided dead animals since a cow had died nearby.  Good views though and this was nearer to reality.  There was a lot of squabbling and the Black Vulture was king.  Griffon numbers were down to only a few after the Turkish Bulgarians abandoned their houses and returned to Turkey after they were asked to take Bulgarian names.  This was 10 and 20 years ago when they were offered inducements by Turkey.  Consequently there were less animals around and carrion for the vulture to eat.  They have now recovered due to feeding stations and more recently Black Vultures have reappeared and have begun to breed again. 

Also seen were four Common Buzzards, Black Kite, a female Montagu's Harrier, a Long-legged Buzzard, Sparrowhawk, five Alpine Swifts, a Woodlark singing, a Cirl Bunting (song halfway between Lesser Whitethroat and early part of  a Yellowhammer), Hoopoe, Common Whitethroat, many Golden Orioles, Corn Buntings, Nightingales, a Raven, Hooded Crows and Jackdaws.

We walked up a small canyon by a river for lunch during which we watched a pair of Rock Nuthatch on a cliff face.  The nest was made of mud (like concrete apparently) with a tunnel for an entrance.  Also seen were some Blue Rock Thrushes (male, female and two flying juveniles), a Cirl Bunting bathing in the stream, two Ravens and two Lesser Grey Shrikes.

Sixteen Grey Heron were seen to be nesting on the cliffs of dam which was very unusual. 

Here we saw three Kestrels which were very lightly spotted.  Although Petar said this was not unusual he raced away to check them out for the possibility that they may be Lessers.  However he said there was no blue grey panel on the male and the colour of their toenails was wrong!  Here we also saw two Ravens, a Black Redstart feeding young, two White Wagtails, Greenfinches, a pair of Tree Sparrows and nearby a good view of a Chukar Partridge. 

We also had close views of several Red-rumped Swallows flying with forked tails often held together and gliding.  There were also two races of Barn Swallow flying and in tree together (rustica – white breast as in UK, and transitiva (East Med) – rufous breast particularly towards the collar).

Stop 21 Krumovgrad

In this town two races of Common Redstart were present.  They arrived a few years ago and now four pairs are present. The same race as in the UK was present, but also samamiscus (Greece, Turkey) which has white patches (variable in size) and much darker on mantle (could confuse it with a Black Redstart).  This pair had rather small patches, but another pair in the town has larger patches.

In the evening we walked in the park to hear Scops Owl and also saw a Little Owl.   

We stopped by a bridge in Kurdjali town. We had excellent close views of a brown phase Cuckoo alongside the normal phase.  The books say it must be a female, but Petar says either (see Day 10 for brown phase calling).  Also here we saw a male Little Bittern, four juvenile Little Grebes, Moorhen, Great Reed Warbler, Reed Warbler and many House Martins. 

A Sparrowhawk was chasing a Honey Buzzard.  Two pairs of Honey Buzzards, one Common Buzzard, Red-rumped Swallows, Raven, Hooded Crows, Jackdaws, Grey and White Wagtails.

This valley and its villages will be flooded due to the construction of a dam by Turkey which will generate electricity for Turkey and then for Bulgaria after two further years.   

We traveled on to Chudnite Mostove (a natural rock formation – two large holes in rock made by water) where we saw two Peregrines and then eventually arrived at the hotel at Pamporovo (a ski resort near to Smoijan) where there were many Pallid Swifts. 

On the way to Trigrad Gorge we saw a Black Stork.  

At the Gorge (1100m which is the lower limit for Wallcreepers) we had great close views of a pair of Wallcreepers on the cliff wall and then two pairs at the same time.  As they flew overhead I could see the crimson without binoculars.  Also two males (black throats) appeared together presumably disputing the range of territories. 

There were also two Peregrine chicks (nearly able to fly) in a hole on cliff.  An adult came in and dropped the prey!  After some searching it was a Mistle Thrush (possibly a juvenile) and Petar thought that perhaps it was not caught alive since it was quite cold.

The gorge was filled with many Alpine Swifts with loud trilling whistles, Crag and House Martins and several Black Redstarts with white wing patches. 

We walked from the village of Trigrad back down to the gorge and visited the Devil Throat cave.  Several Rock Doves (red eye, white underwing and white rump) were present.  As usual, there was some discussion as to whether these were “real” or not, but in mountains they are unlikely to be contaminated.  A Sparrowhawk chased a Honey Buzzard carrying a snake.  Also close views of a Serin also Linnet, Black Redstart, Robin, Kestrel. 

On way down from the gorge we stopped to view a pair of Dippers with two juveniles and several Grey Wagtails, Buzzards and Dunnocks. 

A pair of Golden Eagle displayed by folding their wings, inverting into a heart shape and plunging, then climbing.  Their long tail was equal to the width of their wing which was narrower at the base and bulged to rear.  The wings were held in a shallow V which is characteristic of this species.  The female was larger and the male had a white tail, white on wing and moulting primaries so Petar said an immature and that mating with a mature female was not unusual.  

Also seen were Lesser Whitethroats, Blackcap, Chiffchaff, Red-rumped Swallows, Swifts, Red-backed Shrike and a few White Wagtails. 

A walk in the evening did not result in any Nightjars but several Scops Owls were heard.  One flew across our heads and I was left with an impression of whirring wings (unlike a Little Owl). 

I heard Scops Owls calling in the night.  A walk before breakfast produced many Coal and Great Tits, a flock of Crossbills, Bullfinch, Goldcrest, Robin, Serin, Firecrest and a good view of a Crested Tit.  Also several Great Spotted Woodpeckers, Blackbird, Song Thrush, Mistle Thrush, Hooded Crow and a Red Squirrel (this was much darker than in the UK). 

On the way to Dobrostan, up a rough road near the last village before the high plain, was a pair of Golden Eagles (both adults with no white).  One, initially perched on a tree, glided down towards us.  The golden head was clearly seen against the trees.  The wings were held in a shallow V with the tips of the primaries held up. 

At the same time we saw Kestrel, Serin, Skylark, Woodlark, Lesser Whitethroat, Barred Warbler and looked for Rock Partridges but had no luck. 

We stopped on the plain above village and watched a very colourful Rock Thrush displaying from the top of a fir tree (flying up and then returning).  Nearby was a colony of Isabelline Wheatears nesting in holes in the ground probably made by Sousliks (like weasels).

We walked up high and had great views and saw Stonechats, Woodlark, Northern Wheatears, Red-backed Shrikes, Corn Buntings, Yellowhammer, Dunnock, Blackcap and two Ravens.

High over a ravine, a brown phase Cuckoo was calling Cuckoo.  So are the bird guides correct in stating they are females?  Or perhaps females also call Cuckoo.  Petar thought only males called (BWP implies this but is ambiguous).  A few Alpine Choughs nest here but none were seen and a mist came down and light drizzle and lunch was eaten in small shelters.  Apparently it often rains up here.

On the way back we visited a monastery where we logged Nuthatch, Goldfinch and Linnet and a Syrian Woodpecker.     

Day 11 - May 24th - Drive to Bansko

Before breakfast we went for a walk from the hotel and saw twenty Siskin, a Great Spotted Woodpecker, Wren and a Ring Ouzel. 

Here we saw many Whinchat (not as “bright” plumage as we often see migrating through Gloucestershire).  Also seen were Woodlark, Common Buzzard, White Wagtail, Goldfinch, Red-rumped Swallow (nesting in bus shelter), three Crossbills and Swallows. 

There were several Rock Doves in Dospat (the highest town – as opposed to village – in Bulgaria) and also Dunnock, Blackcap and two Raven. 

Great views of two Woodlarks (one feeding another – possibly a juvenile (much white on nape) – or pair bonding).  Both had black alula and a prominent supercilium (almost like Whinchat).  Also present were several Jays, two Woodchat Shrikes, three Common Buzzards, a few White Storks, a Collared Dove, a Moorhen and two pairs of Linnets nest building.  I had very close views of a male and female Hawfinch and heard their explosive tic tic call. 

There were many Northern Wheatears and Red-backed Shrikes (almost the most common bird in Bulgaria!).  I had good views of a Rock Thrush in a dead tree, Nightingales and Blackbirds. 

A Common Sandpiper was seen, glimpses of a Barred Warbler, Buzzard, and good views of a Cirl Bunting singing with a similar call to a Lesser Whitethroat. 

I walked around the “alpine style” hotel above Bansko at 1,115m before breakfast.  Mainly fir but other trees with nice open spaces and saw many Coal Tits, Bullfinch, Willow Tit (showing white panel), Marsh Tit, Red-backed Shrikes, Blackbird, Song and Mistle Thrushes, Robin, Blackcap, Yellowhammer, Red-rumped Swallows, two Great Spotted Woodpeckers, Green Woodpecker and a glimpse of a flying Grey-headed Woodpecker. 

Nobody arrived to make our breakfast at the hotel and so we had to go to Bansko for breakfast.  Here we saw White Storks and Rock Doves in the village and even a Red-backed Shrike!  Also Collared Doves, Swifts (Common and Pallid), Swallows (Barn and Red-rumped), House Martins, House Sparrows and Serins. 

Then we drove further up the mountain (peak at 2914m) for 45minutes to a Mountain Hut at 2,050m getting brief views of a Water Pipit on the way up.  We had distant views of a Rock Partridge and later two birds flew down from the top towards us.  We only knew they were Rock and not Chukar because of the height.  There were seven Alpine Choughs in the distance together with Crag Martins and two Wallcreepers flew around us for a while. 

We walked up to a small lake at 2,175m, initially mainly fir trees and juniper bushes and then finally only juniper and eventually through a little snow.  It was boiling hot with great views.  I saw two vipers mating (or fighting).  Also seen were two Ravens, many Chaffinches, Goldfinches, many Dunnocks, five Grey Wagtails, Kestrel, Chiffchaff, many Black Redstarts, male and female Ring Ouzels, two Linnets.

A Short-toed Eagle appeared high overhead (very pale underwing) and hovered briefly and then landed.  Its head was darker than its body.  Also seen was a Marsh Harrier migrating north high over a mountain top.

Petar was very surprised there were no Alpine Accentors or Water Pipits, he expected plenty of both. 

Before breakfast I walked around hotel and saw similar birds to the previous day and then we motored south towards Greece and saw two Marsh Warblers on a peeing stop. 

In the Kresna Gorge, during half an hour, five flocks of Rose-coloured Starlings flew by going north.  Each flock had fifteen to fifty birds.  One flock stopped and covered a dead tree.  Two Rock Thrushes and one Blue Rock Thrush were seen and two Cormorants flew high overhead. 

Here we saw several Olivaceous Warblers, two Kestrels, Common Sandpiper, Common Whitethroat, Collared and Turtle Doves, two Cuckoos and a Great Reed Warbler. 

We also had great views of an Orphean Warbler.  It had a super song like a Song Thrush.  It is a large warbler with a yellow/white eye with dark ear coverts.  It sang from exposed perches but not for long so obtaining a prolonged view was difficult.  I missed the only Sombre Tit of the trip.  There was also an Icterine Warbler (almost unseen) which was imitating many birds including Goldfinch and confused us for a while. 

We stopped for lunch when the river came close to road and this stop proved to be very good. 

Two Common Terns, ten Yellow-legged (Caspian – Larus cachinnans) Gulls flew over and there were two Little Ringed Plovers and a Common Sandpiper on a shingle bank in the river. 

We had terrific, close views of two pairs of Rollers, one pair was nesting in hole in tree.  Petar was worried about the Roller's future since they are very sensitive to insecticides . 

During a short walk a Grey Partridge flew up at my feet and I saw several Red-backed Shrikes, Crested Larks (song part way between Sky and Wood Lark), Cetti’s Warblers, a Penduline Tit building a nest, Spotted Flycatcher, Grey Heron, seven Little Egrets, Hooded Crows, two White Storks circled and many Olivaceous Warblers sang repeating the same rift several times. 

There were Bee-eaters nesting in holes in the bank of river and a Kingfisher.  A Golden Oriole flew down several times to dip in river and a Hoopoe called, pulsating with the effort.  Also excellent views of a Syrian Woodpecker (no stripe of face so much whiter than Great and salmon pink vent). 

We had close views of a perched male Levant Sparrowhawk (Petar said best ever view with a group).  About 100 breed in Bulgaria.  It had pale cheeks, barred pink breast and white underwings with black wing tips (did not notice unbarred central tail feathers).  It then flew and circled close overhead.  The female was present but I did not see it well.

On the way back we saw a dark phase Short-toed Eagle hovering (very upright jizz unlike Common Buzzard), two Kestrels, two Common Buzzards, Alpine Swifts, Sardinian Warbler (but no Subalpine), several Woodchat Shrikes, Goldfinch, Cirl Bunting and a juvenile Tortoise. 

I went for a walk before breakfast and had great views of a Black Woodpecker.  Initially it flew over, showing a long head and bill and fingers to primaries, rather like a large crow.  Then it appeared nearby on a tree, with a large ivory bill, white eye, and a fork to the end of the tail.  The fork to the tail was also seen as it flew away.  Then I heard the prrrt prrrt call several times and meow call rather like a Herring Gull. 

We had a close view of two Rose-coloured Starlings.  The colour was dirty white rather than pink and I was unable to see a pink flush.

We looked over the Blagoevgrad fish ponds for about 15 minutes during which four flocks of  Rose-coloured Starlings flew by fast and purposefully.  They did not show much pink except a slight flush from behind when a flock flew close by.  On the ponds was a Little Bittern and fifty Mallards. 

We drove to Rila Monastery where we had Kestrel, Pallid Swifts, Black Redstart, Common Buzzard, White Wagtail, Crossbills and five Alpine Choughs in the distance.  Also an adult Golden Eagle displayed by diving down as an inverted heart shape then flying up.  It did this in all directions, not in a straight line like a Buzzard. 

We stopped, in the heat, for lunch near Rila, where there were several marshy ponds.  Many Great Reed Warblers, two Marsh Warblers, Cetti’s, male and female Little Bitterns (they looked very small when seen close by), Honey Buzzard and a few Sand Martins. 

We drove back to above the hotel that we stayed at on the first day, to 1950m to see Tree Pipits and try for Alpine Accentor.  One was on a rock in the distance and we had a brief view of a plump pipit like jizz with reddish streaks on its flanks.  We also saw a male Ring Ouzel within 5m and a Nutcracker was heard.

I had a walk before breakfast and had good views of two Nutcrackers.  They were very brown in the sun, with white spots (not as many as shown in the guides), white vent and tip to tail. After breakfast off to the airport.

Summary

215 species (including Iceland Gull and River Warbler, but I did not see the Sombre Tit).  Surprisingly we did not see Long Tailed Tit or Goshawk.     

Noted below are the number of times the most interesting species were seen and all this for £740! 

Dalmatian Pelican – 1 soaring above us

Pygmy Cormorant – many hundreds

Black Stork – 7

Glossy Ibis - 2 

Ruddy Shelduck – 2

Ferruginous Duck  - 2

Black Vulture - 3

Golden Eagle - 5

Imperial Eagle - 1

Lesser Spotted Eagle - 7

Short-toed Eagle – 4 (one dark phase)

Booted Eagle – 3

Black Kite - 4

Marsh Harrier - 6

Montagu’s Harrier - 2

Long-legged Buzzard  – 5

Common and Honey Buzzard – many in about equal numbers

Steppe Buzzard - 1

Levant Sparrowhawk  – male well seen, female present but only glimpsed

Red-footed Falcon - 3

Rock Partridge - 3 distant

Chukar Partridge  - 2

Collared Pratincole - 20

Black-winged Pratincole  - 2

Iceland Gull – 1 (if accepted)

Rock Dove  - several

Cuckoo (brown phase)  - 2

Eagle Owl – 1 plus 2 young

Roller - 7

Black Woodpecker – 2

Grey-headed Woodpecker - glimpsed

Middle Spotted Woodpecker - pair

Syrian Woodpecker - 3

Red-rumped Swallow  - many

“Black-headed” Wagtail - many

Alpine Accentor - 1 distant

Isabelline Wheatear  - about 10

Black-eared Wheatear - 1

Pied Wheatear  - 1

Blue Rock Thrush - 5 (including 2 juveniles)

Rock Thrush - 6

Barred Warbler  - about 10 but difficult to see well

Orphean Warbler  - 1

River Warbler - 1 heard

Savi’s Warbler - 1

Great Reed Warbler - numerous

Olive-tree Warbler  - about 10 heard but difficult to see

Olivaceous Warbler  - many

Bonelli’s Warbler  - 1

Semi-collared Flycatcher  - pair

Crested Tit  - 1

Rock Nuthatch  - pair

Wallcreeper - 3 pairs

Red-backed Shrike - very numerous

Woodchat Shrike - many

Masked Shrike  - pair

Lesser Grey Shrike - 10

Nutcracker - 7

Rose-coloured Starling  - several hundred

Golden Oriole - numerous

Ortolan - 3

Cirl Bunting - 7

Black-headed Bunting  - 3 noted but more seen

Rock Bunting - 1